Swing Arm bearing replacement

Discussion in 'Common Items on Husqvarnas: Tires/tubes/grips/etc' started by ray_ray, Jan 11, 2011.

  1. ray_ray Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    The Philippines
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08\013 WR250, 010 TC250, 012 TC250
    I have my swing arm off my 08 TXC250 now and need to drive the old bearings out ....

    Do I need to drive out the bushings from the inside of the arm or can I leave them in and drive both bearings out the same way from the arm..

    The all balls bearing kit does not include these bushings so beware if you need the bushings along with the bearings ...
  2. pvduke Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    ... on the gas...
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    tripple-hondo hoosk...
    Other Motorcycles:
    dozens of them, kicked to the curb
    wait- why drive out bearings with the bushings in? im confused. never done it that way.

    i remove any collar or sleeve/bush, then, use two sockets to drive out bearings. one just big enough to drive the bearing and another large enough to catch it, squeazed in a vise. work SLOWLY and carefully. measure both sides of the boss, drive out and in via the largest hole. if things are stuck, set/tention the jaws then tap lightly with a hammer on vice through-bolt, that'll pop it loose. ince it pops loose it will slide very easily, dont get hasty there. i also dont heat up swinging arms or links.

    always check for circlips first when pressing out bearings!
  3. ray_ray Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    The Philippines
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08\013 WR250, 010 TC250, 012 TC250
    I don't have the new bushings as they were not in the allballs kit so I don't want to hurt them for sure ... The bushings do look easy enough to drive out but if I don't need to remove them, I don't want to ... Do you drive UR out and add the old ones back in?

    I don't think any clips are there but usually there are ridges that separate the bearings into their holders ...
  4. pvduke Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    ... on the gas...
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    tripple-hondo hoosk...
    Other Motorcycles:
    dozens of them, kicked to the curb
    if yer speaking of the collar/bush in the bearing it should just slip out w/o any force.

    kelly's probably replaced these....i'm sure he'll have some insight. i dont recall any ridges but my memory aint what it used to be. kel and uptite will know for sure if there are.
  5. ray_ray Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    The Philippines
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08\013 WR250, 010 TC250, 012 TC250
    Not that one ...The bushing that is pressed in the swingarm on the inside of each leg ... the removable one you speak of fits into it ... the bushings feel OK but the bearings were total toast ... As I said, I hate to pound out the inner bushings and risk screwing them up unless I have to ..
  6. pvduke Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    ... on the gas...
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    tripple-hondo hoosk...
    Other Motorcycles:
    dozens of them, kicked to the curb
    right- the inner bush. darned if i recall how much force it take to move them. pretty dry here. sw/arm fork brgs last longer so....kel or uptite can help ya there- if they ever wake up. can ya see if there's a gap between cages like there is a ridge? if there aint i'd try and press it all out the inner hole if all things are equal. i dont use a hammer on any of these parts. a press or vice w/ propper support works best and wont damage anything.
  7. robertaccio Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    San Diego, Ca
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2021 Husqvarna TE300i
    Other Motorcycles:
    99 HusqvarnaTE610, 94 Husaberg FC501
    I just did mine (08 TXC450) they are all interference fit with no stop rings or machined bearing stop steps.
    My races were corroded and took heat and some drift punch banging to get them out. It was a destructive removal, not my favorite result. Before I removed them I measured the depth of the races so I could place the new bearings in the same depth to match the OEM install. I used a bearing press to install the new ones after cleaning up the inside of the arm and using lots of anti galling lube, they went in really well but I did need some stacks of wood and metal plates with the bearing drivers to get a good angle and to support the arm while pressing the bearings in. I removed and pressed in all the bearing from their respective sides. technically you could do each pair from the same side but I did not want exert anymore time/force/impact than that would be needed to seat them into the longer distance, so I did 2 from outside and 2 from inside. PS the kit was not complete and I needed and bought OEM seals. As for the linkage kit it too was incomplete and did not include the lower knuckle bearing and gudgeon (I went to OEM for those as well)
    The interference fit used seemed really close tolerance (tight) so banging them in with a socket/bearing tool might damage the bearing/race. With the press they went in cleanly and without impact and its possible dmaging effects. I 100% rcommend to use a press for at the least installation, like I said for removal I used the thrasher method.
  8. pvduke Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    ... on the gas...
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    tripple-hondo hoosk...
    Other Motorcycles:
    dozens of them, kicked to the curb
  9. ray_ray Mini-Sponsor

    Location:
    The Philippines
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    08\013 WR250, 010 TC250, 012 TC250
    Thanks and I'm happy to say I gotta backtrack on the part about no bushings in the allballs kits ... I found them in there after re-checking ...

    I can pound away now :) ... I might can find a press tomorrow also... these guys here have machine shops and do this kind of work very cheaply and have experience here as they can't be wasteful on almost anything and use these machines alot ...

    The legs that hold the bearings \ bushings are a little off-centered plus different lengths and the spacing is different on the bearings in the legs on each side ... looks a little strange ... maybe this is caused by the off-centered shock ...

    Update: Success! ... I'll be testing the bike tomorrow and all weekend I suspect :)