tank bolt spinning...

Discussion in '610/630' started by BaronVonDarrin, May 6, 2013.

  1. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    well I tried to take off the right side fairing and the bottom left bolt is just spinning in the tank like two of my bolts in my air box... what can I do now to get this bolt out?... Aside from tearing apart the fairing or getting a new tank. Is there any way to fix this?
  2. JonXX Administrator

    Location:
    Bill's Motorcycles Plus
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    360CR 360WR SM610 TC450 TXC250 TC250
    Other Motorcycles:
    Hondas, Harleys, Yammys & a squid
  3. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    thanks. I will take a look. I tried searching but I only searched in this particular forum. Guess I should have expanded to other branches of the forum.

    edit after reading linked thread:

    OK so it looks like I can try to freeze the tank in a deep freezer I do not have, or try to melt the plastic with high speed impact air tool with compressor I do not have.

    I may try to get some keyboard cleaner and freeze the edge of the bolt and plastic there and try again. By holding the can upside down and spraying around it. If that does not work, I will try melting. Would it be too dangerous or stupid to use a small torch to warm it up? Maybe if I aim at the bolt and not the plastic directly? I already have a torch and do not really want to have to go out and buy an air compressor and stuff. Especially since I do not have money to buy a nice one and would end up with some cheap piece of crap that would just piss me off in the long run I think...
  4. Sceep Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    'Burque
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '09 te310
    Other Motorcycles:
    '94 st1100
    a drill will also spin it fast enough. preferably corded so you dont have to worry about running down the battery.


    yes, using a torch would be VERY dangerous AND stupid.
  5. Mike-AK Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Alaska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2012 TE 310
    DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME NEAR YOUR GAS TANK! :eek:

    Sorry about yelling, but I wanted to make sure your heard me.
    BaronVonDarrin and Sceep like this.
  6. Mike-AK Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Alaska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2012 TE 310
  7. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    well, all i got right now is a electric hammer drill. battery operated. not the strongest thing on earth but it will have to do. I am going to see if there is an adapter i can get for a socket to go on the end of it at home depot on the way home.
  8. Sceep Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    'Burque
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '09 te310
    Other Motorcycles:
    '94 st1100

    yes there is, it looks like this [IMG]
    BaronVonDarrin likes this.
  9. 1lunger Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Bloomfield CT
    When taking the bolts out of the nuts that spin, make sure the bikes cold. This help air box and others to not spin
  10. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    well I picked one up and I try the process mentioned in the other thread. still can't seem to be able to get it out... I think maybe I'm about ready to just take it to the shop but I don't even know if they can do anything with it
  11. 1lunger Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Bloomfield CT
    You have to spin it fast and melt the plastic
  12. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    I just took the drill to it again till it friggin' smoked, grabbed some pliers in anger, applied maximum hulk rage, burst about 100 blood vessels and it popped out. I then cleaned out the hole and put a bunch of jbweld in there and shoved the POS back in. Hope it freaking works. /fury
    XLEnduroMan, Russ and JonXX like this.
  13. JonXX Administrator

    Location:
    Bill's Motorcycles Plus
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    360CR 360WR SM610 TC450 TXC250 TC250
    Other Motorcycles:
    Hondas, Harleys, Yammys & a squid
    You don't HAVE to spin it fast, you don't HAVE to melt the plastic. I do neither and get them out no problem (probably faster than the spin-n-smoke method).

    Just turn with a socket and pry. Yes it takes a bit of fiddling but it works and isn't destructive.
  14. DYNOBOB Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Cincinnati (Lebanon), OH
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE630
    Other Motorcycles:
    SuperTenere-GL1800-CBR900RR-KLX250S
    The reason our inserts spin is because the bottom of the washer tightens down against the insert. When loosening you not only have to overcome the thread friction but also the mechanical "lock" between the insert and the washer. I added washers to all my airbox/tank fasteners so the washer isn't bottomed against the insert as hard.

    [IMG]

    [IMG]
  15. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    I think you guys are just way stronger than me. (180lb 6' scrawny sack of bones) The only way I was able to remove it was melting the plastic and running on maximum adrenaline rage. I tried prying and twisting and everything before hand. I hope my fairing will still be able to be attached now. I sort of yanked that off through the slot too while I was at it.
  16. Mike-AK Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Alaska
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2012 TE 310
    Every time I take out one of those screws, I put a dab of anti-seize lube on them before reinstalling.
  17. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    yea i am going to pick up some of that stuff today
  18. huskybear Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    B.C. Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2010 wr144 with lectron carb, stuff!
    X2!
  19. Xcuvator Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Scholls Oregon
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    TE450,610 WB165,WR250 WR360 & XC430
    Other Motorcycles:
    yes
    IMO the climate makes a difference, but anti seize is great, grease, oil, anything, even dry, (here in the wet NW) if not over tightened. ! foot pound is enough.
    Brass is easy to over tighten.
    I get a kick out of the U Tube mechanics with their cool electric wrenches and think- holy sh!te. :banghead:
  20. BaronVonDarrin Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Norristown
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2011 te630
    Other Motorcycles:
    wr250r, CL175
    Reporting back in. Finally got the thing back together after spending days trying to get correct machine screws for the new radiator guards.

    The jb weld is holding the bolt seat fine. That whole method seemed to do the trick pretty well. I bought some heavy duty antiseize and put a generous amount in every hole in the tank before putting in any of the bolts.