• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

TE 449/511 Fuel Taps - Possible relation to stalling?

Huskynoobee

Huskynoobee

CH Sponsor ZipTy Racing
Staff member
OK, just had one of those Hmmm moments. I have read about some TE owners having stalling and flame out issues, while myself and others don't seem to experience this problem. As I was going through the manual a day or so after my initial 50 mile ride to get it home and going over stuff, I ran across the section about the fuel taps. The manual states pretty clearly that both taps must be in the fully open position.

Well, when I checked, both of mine were only open about a turn as delivered. I then turned them open some more and found they still both had about 1 and 1/2 to go before being fully open, and decided to follow the book and leave them all the way open. The performance didn't seem all that different on the subsequent ride, but I was still taking it easy for break in.

It didn't really dawn on me until I read a post by a Cafe Husky user saying his "taps were almost fully closed". This got me to thinkin.....Hmmmm I wonder if some people are having the stalling issue due to good ol fashioned fuel starvation induced lean mixture caused by their taps not being open far enough. :excuseme:

So here's the question(s).....Have you checked your taps?

Do you use the taps to fine tune how your bike runs?

Did the folks who went with an aftermarket tuner check their taps before taking that route?

Am I just peeing into the wind? ;) How bout it folks?
 
They are just on/off valves, not tuning devices. If you remove your tanks turn off the taps to stop fuel from flowing If they let any fuel flow they will flow enough to pass fuel to feed the lower tank and subsequently the engine. I think full open is best but if they reduced fuel flow enough to shut the engine off the fuel wouldn't be there to restart.
 
That's exactly what I was thinkin when I read that post. Although I wonder why anyone wouldn't follow the manual, including the guys who set up my bike for delivery. I for one would never do that to a FI system anyway since it's already suppsed to meter the fuel as part of it's job.

Because they can be opened or closed by increments unlike a good ol petcock, it made me think perhaps the folks who say it runs too lean and stalls might find theirs in something other than all the way open.
 
assuming you have your bike in the full power mode...my guess the problem is the efi mapping that husky has set the bike up with.i think it is too lean particularly on the bottom of the rpm range.the Jd fuel tuner should help with this.if a aftermarket pipe is installed they seem to stall more if the bike has a pipe and no tuner.i bet at muchhigher altitudes the bike would stall less.also the fly wheel effect seems to be less compared to some other bikes.dont know how to fix that one tho.dan
 
Mine's never stalled in either mode, but there were enough complaints that I thought I would throw this out there. I wish I could find the post where the guy said "I've got my taps almost closed completely" so you guys could see what I mean. Personally I have absolutley no reason to throw money at a problem that I'm not having. If or when I take off the Fiat muffler and swap it for the Akro, and the stock maps don't make it work to my liking, I would consider the JD tuner, but for now, I just wanna ride!!!
 
My experience with stalling on my TE 511. By pass the smog stuff and remapp. It has eliminated the stalling.
 
Something that I would like to note that if the stalling is occurring in the low RPM range, it's really important that the air bypass screw is checked. I have a 2012 TE511, and I could not keep it idling, and it would flame out almost every time I decelerated. After reading tons of posts on the subjects, I decided to check the setting on the air bypass screw. On mine it came with over two full turns out from the 2.25 to 2.34 setting it should be at. I went ahead and took the middle ground and set mine to 2.5 and all of my stalling issues under low rpms have disappeared.
 
Pete Rocha said:
Something that I would like to note that if the stalling is occurring in the low RPM range, it's really important that the air bypass screw is checked. I have a 2012 TE511, and I could not keep it idling, and it would flame out almost every time I decelerated. After reading tons of posts on the subjects, I decided to check the setting on the air bypass screw. On mine it came with over two full turns out from the 2.25 to 2.34 setting it should be at. I went ahead and took the middle ground and set mine to 2.5 and all of my stalling issues under low rpms have disappeared.
Click to expand...

Whats the 'air bypass screw' and where can it be found? I know of the idle speed brass screw on the fuel system to alter the tickover speed. i can't find anything in the parts manuel refering to this bypass screw you discribe, so do you have a photo of the bypass screw or what it looks like and how to find it?
 
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