If anyone is interested in fine tuning the TE 510 FI. I spent some more time on the Laptop today. Its still very tight in the engine department but it had a horrible fluffiness just off idle causing 'flameouts' (I think that's what you guys across the pond call it). All the testing is 'seat of the pants' no dyno to hand. With the iBeat 2, I reset all the FB, 1,2 & 3 (top to bottom) to 100 with the lambda in. Fitted the race resistor. Checked the CO and I had 95 98 96 (i think...) So, I reset the CO to 100, 100, 100. Ran it and it was still fluffly at the bottom but not bad. Set the top/1st register to 110. This made it much better of the bottom. Lifting the wheel over the kerb was easy, it didn't throw me over the bars and stop. It was lacking further up the range though. Reset the 2nd register (middle) to 110. This was good but still felt a little underpowered. I adjusted the 2nd again to 90 and the 3rd to 90. Much better at the top end now but the middle range felt like it needed some alteration. Reset the 2nd register to 100. Wow, when you open the throttle it lifts and keeps lifting, no need to preload the forks or pull on the bars, she lifts on power alone. In a short run from 1st into 2nd and 3rd gear she is rearing up on the power. Still a little bit of a fluff at the bottom just off tickover that goes when you remove the baffle insert. So I cut it down to about 2.5 - 3 inches and reinstalled the baffle. Sounds OK, not ear shattering and has improved the hesitation. So thats FB all to 100. and with the race resistor fitted, Lambda unplugged. CO from top to bottom: 110, 100, 90. Hoping to get out properly this weekend and she how it goes under duress... May reduce the baffle length more. Alec (Brock)
I'm fairly sure what you just typed may not have been understood by too many people. Ibeat is fairly expensive and not many have access to it, in the USA at least - especially the ibeat 2. I'll move this to the efi section so it does not get lost, it's good information.
Excellent job Brock - I have an 09 TE510 and really appreciate whatever info (like this) you can provide. Just to be sure - you have the airbox restrictor removed, the midpipe baffle (catalytic converter here in Canada) cut down to about 2.5-3" in length, and the spark arrestor insert in the muffler. (looks like fine brass screen). O2 sensor removed, race plug in harness. Since you are using Ibeat V2 - would you please go over the procedure for setting the TPS - start to finish? This may take a bit of typing but it would give me great insight in my efforts to mechanically tweak the unit for my needs. MAT
great info maybe we can start a sticky where people can post thier TPS settings and FB1/FB2/FB3 settings? Add bike setup like P/U, aftermarket pipe, elevation etc... I hope to be picking up a new TE soon and I can have the dealer do a baseline Ibeat tune based on the data gathered.
If it makes sense, absolutely. Thing is, unlike carb bikes, there are a bunch more variables inherent in electronic components like the Lambda sensor.... so it may not make sense to do that. If people see a certain recipe posted and did not read all the background material that might only add to the confusion.
Good point maybe we can make a template and a use at your own risk warning? Bike model/year TPS--->relevant? FB1 FB2 FB3 Lambda in/out cat removed y/n and any other variables that may be helpful? Not sure how many owners even know thier Ibeat settings so might be a lost cause. Then we can do the same thing for the PC-V
Standard loom. Lambda/o2 sensor disconnected. Airbox restrictor removed. Race resistor in place. CAT in mid section removed. End can Baffle insert cut down. Check TPS every time and just reset it if different values are present. Cut the end off the end can baffle first, which opened up the insert end to its full diameter and meant I could remove the perforated tube inside the insert. I have since been cutting the insert down in length making it shorter and shorter as per my first post to lessen the hesitation of the bottom. Funnily enough the 2010 bikes come with a replacement baffle insert!!! It looks like my modified insert! Only now I am making it shorter. I'll take some pics and post them asap.
Your not alone Picklito, we have been working these things out for ourselves for the past two years and we are still learning! Alec
There seems to be quite a bit of confusion over what FB 1, 2, and 3 actually do, and whether going above 100 makes the calibration richer or leaner. That's pretty basic, and even that doesn't seem to be known for certain. So, How bout we start with a basic explanation of what it is we're adjusting? It seems were are going on rumor and superstition rather than cold hard facts. I just got my bike and even with reading all the threads I can find... it just seems a big mystery. I can't believe there isn't more support from Husky. Wouldn't you think they'd want these bikes to run their best? This is the best bike I've ever owned in so many ways, but if we can't make it run to its full potential, what good is all that technology? Ok - rant over.
I'm trying to sort out the efi mystery... and PC V.... and autotune... and a few other things along the way. At least that is the goal. There are a bunch of variables to consider, and yes eventually they will be documented and discussed in detail in a format that most should understand. Things would be happening much faster if Europe was not on vacation during August.
For starters, can someone explain FB1, 2, and 3. And whether going above 100% is richer or leaner? And how it does that? Longer/shorter pulse, pulse frequency?
Today I have reset the 1st Register on the CO to 100 and it seems to have cured the hesitation/flameout. I took it up to 125 but it just got worse. I did adjust the tick-over to get a level line on the spark advance in the log screen. If its jumping around its too low and the bike thinks its trying to start! The spark is stronger at starting... I left the other two registers as they were. I am taking it on the trail tomorrow so I'll have a better idea of how it is behaving by tomorrow evening. At 110 shortening the baffle to its very min didn't help any. I'm running the baffle insert at approx 2 - 3 inch long at the moment. I'll let you know how I get on. I'll try and answer your question next week Picklito.
On the 08 and possibly the 09, FB2 & 3 don't appear to be used. As far as explaining FB1 function, it appears to offset the fuel either richer or leaner. If the O2 sensor is installed and the feedback loop is active at idle, FB1 can be adjusted to get the feedback display to show 100% which means you have calibrated the fuel map to be very close to the 14.7:1 AFR that the O2 is calibrated for. A 100% reading in the feedback display means that none or little closed-loop trim is needed. One thing to keeping in mind is my testing has shown that when the O2 is installed and throttle or engine speed is changed suddenly, it appears that the system stops using O2 sensor feedback and instead uses FB1 offset map values until conditions stabilize. When the conditions are stable, the O2 sensor readings will always cause the feedback to trim the AFR to be 14.7:1 regardless of FB1 values within limits. If it sees that the O2 feedback has to trim too much, it can cause a O2 sensor fault code. Here is a sample from some AFR data logging from last year showing the effect of FB1 with the race plug installed at idle with a throttle twist no-load. Lower FB1 = leaner or shorter injector pulse. Higher FB1 = richer or longer injector pulse.
