TE250 year 11, starts ok, acelerates ok 'till 4k revs, then cuts.

I need some help, recently, my bike had a fail on the screen, then I rode it for test behavior.

It starts fine, idles fine, but when you acelerate it, gets to about 4k revs and then cuts, without power, then idles fine again.. if you try to acelerate in gear, it thends to shut down, cutting the power. But you can start it fine just after that.. it seems to me like gas pump, but, what do you think? Fail message on screen is sometimes appearing, sometimes not.

yeah Alberto, fuel pump and pressure is a good place to start. There might be a leak in the internal fuel line or something wrong with the pressure regulator also. Look at the fuel filter and the electrical connections too, while you're in there.

Can you get past 4k in neutral? If not, possibly look at the coil or plug.

I don't know what parameters cause "FAIL" to appear on the screen; I don't see how fuel pressure itself would cause the message, but i bet the bike can detect misfires/stumbles.

Yeah, I can go to the limit, but not in the normal way, acceleration still has it fails during the curve to the top, but it can be barely noticed until you engage gear and try to move forward.. how can I make a test to the gas pump and pressure it is delivering?

make a Tee fitting to go between your throttle body and the stock hose (FI fittings available on ebay ~$7, any good 1/4" 6mm hose will do, a Tee could be anything plastic or metal, $3... USA prices; CR- who knows) and attach a pressure gauge. While the bike is running, you wanna see 40-50psi (3+ Bar but not too much more) during the whole rpm spread.

...or find a friend with a FI pressure kit-which has all the fittings and gauges and saves you from a minor hassle.

ebay FI fittings but measure your stuff, 'cause this guy is inconsistent with his auction titles
example of a Tee-fitting
pressure gauge

got it! Will check this out and report... I really hope the fuel pump has not gone bad :-(

you can get a fuel pump for $20 on ebay.

the stock one with both plastic plates and fuel regulator is hundred$.

Trenchcoat,I just have to say it is great to have someone like yourself who is always willing to help CH members out the way you do. Thanks

Thanks Ricky.

but I wanna state I'm no fuel injection expert (I quit messing with cars when they switched over in the late '80s early '90s). so take my advice with a grain of salt. And use common sense- along with a fire extinguisher.

I still have no report of what is happenning with my bike.. seems fuel pump is ok. There is something else, I need Ibeat

check your air filter too. and make sure your exhaust is clear. basically, do the simple and fast confirmation that the bike is able to "breathe" in & out... before you go on to the more complex things.

Sounds like a sensor is out then it is going in limp mode

this is a great point- these bikes start running flaky when the water temp sensor goes out. (do a search). they're relatively cheap... but I don't know of a test besides swapping out one for a good one.

I have a new temp sensor spare and I checked it, but even with the new temp sensor, the bike do the same thing. So, I can discard the temp sensor. Also, I changed the air filter, checked exhaust. I'm afraid the TPS or the gear position sensor are causing the problem. Not really sure what could be the relation with the gear position sensor, but I've read somewhere that it can affect. Today I have a date with the bike shop that has Ibeat, and we'll see the report.

(btw, there is also an air temp sensor in air box. never heard of any problem with them, but...)

ok- lets recap:

• your bike idles/starts fine- but stumbles or hesitates with throttle application and won't get higher than 4K rpms
• sometimes you see "FAIL" on the speedo display
• in neutral, you can get it a little higher in rpm's but it still runs shitty.
• your fuel pump pressure AND volume (right??) have been confirmed to be 3bar and 30+ liters/hour
• your spark plug is okay. your air intake is clear. your exhaust is clear.
• there is NO water in your gas tank (it doesn't rain in Costa Rica or anything like that- right????)
• you have a new WTS in the cylinder and it still runs the same.

the gear position sensor is usually just a buncha different resistors for different gears (totally made up example: 47ohms, 116ohms, 330ohms, 640ohms, 1100ohms) neutral could be a short or infinite ohms or something else. if this is how your bike is, you could just temporarily wire a resistor in. i doubt if it's your problem, but who knows?

The tps is just a rheostat or maybe a potentiometer (both are kinda variable resistors) and should be easy to test with an ohm meter, or a voltmeter when the circuit is on. should be detailed in the manual, I would guess.

The crank position sensor is wired in with the stator. it can cause weird shit to happen- think about that too.

also consider an intermittent wiring problem. look at all the wires of the sensor mentioned here. look at your battery terminals (are they tight, btw?). look at you lighting wiring. look hard- it's gonna be a small rub or break in the wire. there might be a slight burn or melted insulation in the area. examine the connectors, too.

good luck, Alberto.

don't forget to tell us what it is when you find it, also.
give me a shout if there is too much Americanism in the post and I'll straighten it out.

Yes, do what Trenchcoat gave you for a shopping list.

I do know that year bike, some goofy things happened.

Also, check your flywheel key. I know guy that his was almost shearing off and the flywheel moved some. It ran then cut out. Then guys sheared them off 100%. You could check your timing marks?

Is your injector spraying a good pattern and not plugged halfway? Could explain like it's running out of fuel?

I would say that your ecu should be fine as long as you didn't hook a lap top up to it.
Don't laugh but friend of mine bought one. Same night he tried re programming it and it wouldn't hardly run.

To me? Something is making the bike convert to limp mode. I know guys racing and they had to ride back partial throttle or else bike would cut out. Yes, could be as simple as a shorted wire or even a wire is pushed back and not snapped in a connector.

No wires coming out of ignition cover running up hydraulic clutch line not burned behind pipe?

Does yours have the tank ground connection on it. By right petcock ? Did that come un plugged? I zip tie my connector together.

Are all your grounds clean where they bolt to frame?

Your fuel injection runs off the battery? Do you have full voltage in your battery? If your battery is down on voltage then engine will cut out as it draws more voltage to run.

Did your bike have a catalytic converter in pipe? Was it removed? Could be plugged if not?

Just don't take your silencer off, put your eye up to it to see if it's clear! You might go in town looking like a raccoon!

Just give you some more ideas........

well guys, after exhaustive checks today, it seems(we are still not 100% sure) the tilt sensor is causing the problem. There is no tilt sensor on these bikes, but the thing replacing it, is damaged. Will keep you posted.

My red head runs perfectly fine (~20 secs) laying on it's downhill side on the steepest hill around here- I know, 'cause usually I'm about 50' downhill of it, trying to crawl back to it. Getting old sux; I might hafta take you up on those senoritas and guaro, Alberto.

....wait a minute- what are you replacing if you don't know what it is? got a part number or anything?

There is a thing.. seems the TEs dont have tilt sensor, only SMs, but there is something, dont know what exactly it is, where the tilt sensor is, that replaces it. However, I have bad news, after more tests with Ibeat, and replacing sensors, the failure persists, so, we are checking something else. I really hope the plug cable is the one causing troubles. If not, maybe something else, stator, etc, but I haven't get there yet. Will provide an update later.

yeah... I know they don't have a tilt-sensor; that was the point. And I understand that you know that. But you're thinking of replacing "something". I'm kinda curious what it is and where it's located at.

BTW, the replacement for a tilt-sensor is a piece of wire usually.

Did you go over the wiring in fine detail; looking for a short or broken wire? areas to concentrate on are: around the stator cover/header, at the fork neck, and under the tank. and then every place else.