TE310 2009 electrical fault finding

Ive got purchased a 09 310 project bike
I am hoping there are some kind person may help

I was told by previous owner had an issue with the fuel pump wiring in the harness.
Havent got to pump wiring yet as when I kick it over there is no spark

The stator resistances all seem ok . The coil resistance on the secondary windings is 20 k ohms . This is similar to a later model but much higher than what the manual says it should be at 5k ohms. I cleaned up the connections of the coil to the frame.
I am not 100% that coil is the problem as there is no spark at all.

Would there still be a spark with a kickstart but with no battery connection ? Does the battery have to be connected to get a spark ? I thought the charge goes to from stator to ignition for ignition .

When I connect the battery it starts trying to turn over the starter without using the button
Not sure why this is happening . Could be some issue with switch but seems ok .



Thanks in advance

Does the fuel pump prime for a few seconds when you turn the key on and push the ignition on button on the RHS?
Check the starter relay is not shorted.
Not sure on the clutch switch circuit.


Do you have the wiring diagrams? If not - check here https://husqvarnaoutlet.com/repair_manuals

There is no key on bike . I havent got to fuel pump issue yet - trying to work out spark . I pulled fuel pump assembly out of tank and its working when wired with 12v

Thanks for manual download link
The Wiring diagrams havent really answered my question re battery and if I need to connect to get a spark

Getting somewhere . The heavy gauge wire from battery to starter relay wasnt on bike
Start relay is right now - I think . Other wire from relay to starter Motor is connected . When I turned the on switch the power relay was clicking. There was a bad connection .
Now thats working the fuel pump is coming on fine .
Now I try the starter switch and nothing. Tried disconnecting switch at bars and bridging the two wires that dont start the fuel pump but nothing still .

Ive got continuity between wires at RH switch and starter relay
The starter relay is new .
I am not sure if the wires in the existing coupling are correct for the new relay .
The Relay could be from an SWM and I read that some wires are reversed
The green and the light grey wires from the switch go into bottom two connections

The relay tests ok

The B on the starter relay goes to the "B"attery and also provides power to the main 30A fuse and RH switch block. The M connection goes to the starter "M"otor.
Different relays have the B and M on different sides. If the battery is wired to M then there will be no power going to the main 30A fuse and the bike will have no power.

yeh ok - its was wired right and is same as original . Its getting worse though - I seem to have lost compression now . Kicking it over is very easy .

Oh dear. This is turning into a real project.

Check the decompressor cable is not too tight and reducing compression. The linkage is on the RHS of the head and should have a bit of free play.
The other issue may be the one way starter clutch slipping rather than the engine properly turning over. Put it in gear with the rear wheel off the ground to see if it is actually turning over when using the kickstarter.

It's a common issue with these bikes (I had one). http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/2009-te310-starter-not-engaging-and-the-fix.82936/

Good luck!

Ok thanks. I think its turning motor over ok pulled the stator cover and it all looks good.
I couldnt do a compression test as my guage is too big for plug .

I checked the valve clearances . I worked out how to get TDC . There are three marks on the main gear and the centre one has to line up with a mark on casing . The cams look to be in correct location .
The Exhaust valve clearances were a bit large . Number 2 was around .010". ( .006 to .008 " is in spec.)
One inlet (number 4) was very tight - couldnt get a .0015 guage in there
Ive never done shims before so its good experience I guess
To get to the shims I believe you have to pull the retaining clip looks on the camshaft. T o slide over the rocker arm. Seems quite tight - needs some sort of a hook .

Luckily I have a spare top end ( 250cc) I bought a few months ago. Handy to have for reference.

I am thinking if the valves can be closed up on the exhaust it may help with compression ?
If not the rings may be the issue with compression.

Tight inlet valves mean the hard facing has worn off and the valve is sinking into the head. (I've had this happen). The valves are titanium for lightness however they are soft and wear quickly once they lose the protective hard facing.

If you remove the centre clip and slide the finger follower to the centre you can remove the shim from the top of the valve with a magnet tool. They are 9.48mm diameter. I bought a kit off eBay with 50 odd different sizes. The process is to use a thinner shim then measure with feeler guages to work out the required shim thickness to get correct clearances.

You can reshim the valve however it will only last a few 100km before the valve sinks further and you have to re-shim it. The proper fix is to rebuild the top end and replace the worn valves.

Sounds like you have a few things to fix.

If you need parts I can recommend https://italhusky.com or https://www.halls-cycles.com. You can also try https://swmmotorcycles.com.au/. SWM bought the factory for the red head bikes so you can still get OEM parts.

I have found Australian dealers and distributors find it hard to get these old Husky parts under the new KTM channels. I try to support my local bike shop however buying overseas is sometimes the only option.

Thanks for the tips I appreciate it . I was wondering about removal and where to get shims.
Not sure I want to pull the head down I will get the shim kit for now.
If I get a compression tester connection small enough and and its very low I will pull it down and swap the 310 top end to the 250 one I have

Is it the right hand side inlet that is tight?

yes

Thought so. The RHS gets more airflow (and injested dirt) due to the angle of the rubber intake manifold.
It’s pointing to a dusted intake valve.

Hmm. Yeh right . The guy was a bit of a wally. There was no oil in what was a clean air filter .
Explains low compression if piston/rings worn
I guess rebuilding a four stoke top end was on my bucket list
I'm keen to get this thing going .
Ive started the strip down

BTW I read in a review that the valves were changed to steel on the 09 310

Fixing up a second hand dirt bike is like a box of chocolates - you never know what you will find.

The part number for the intake valves are 8000A5440. Pricing for one:

158 Euro from StarTwin
$521 from a local Husky dealer
$261 from a SWM Dealer. Exhaust valves are $58 each.

The intakes are Titanium and the exhausts are steel.

I would wait until you pull the head and cylinder off before ordering parts. You should also change valve springs, collets and valve seals on the head (intake valve components). The exhausts will be fine. Check the ring gap of the rings in the cylinder to see how much wear there is.

Check the intake boot has not delaminated. I went through 3 of them. It will let dust into the engine.

I have pulled out the RHS inlet valve and its very fine - thin . Like you said it must be worn and was sunken into seat . Doesnt have correct profile on edge.
The same valve on my spare 08 top end is like new and must be steel - much heavier and a darker colour. ( 31g vs 19 g ) It was sitting more proud of in the combustion chamber . Its also got a more rounded (concave) base. I will use that one. I think I will do both inlet valves.

The piston looked to be really good shape but ring gap was too large . Rings were 3 to 4 weeks away so Ive ordered a Pro X - B size piston kit from a local store off Ebay.

Well, sunken valves were definitely one of the problems. Both are gone (one more than the other). Steel inlet valves of the same dimensions will work fine but will not handle as high rpm’s as titanium ones.
At high rpm’s the heavier valve will overpower the valve spring and “float” off the seat causing valve train slap, loss of compression and possibly contact with the piston. Steel valves should be fine given it’s not a MX bike getting thrashed on the rev limiter.

Make sure you check the ring gap before reassembly. You can carefully file the gap if need be. YouTube has plenty of videos on how to do this.

Also check the valve seats with blue engineers dye for wear. The service manual has the grind angle and seat dimensions.

Stainless Steel valves were used in high revving Redhead models.
I can use the springs that were with the valves if they are stiffer .

Actually I am thinking about using the spare head completely as the dusted inlet valve seat looks visually a bit worn and the spare one looks clean and has much fresher machine markings. I was told it was reconditioned in its past .