Te310 2011

Hi yes I know thousands of threads already however my problem may be a bit different, starters been slow and sometimes worked but dragging a lot -so-got a new Lith Batt clean all contacts pulled down starter cleaned stator & brushes put back together checked the starter drive gears look fine for wear-And I checked and the starter was working before installing it again--when fitted it just spins very fast -not engaging--pulled it out again reversed the stator housing with the magnets the other way-( just in case I put the case back to front ) checked Yep still works outside the bike on the bench--fitted it up and just spins again not engaging-Now if the worm gears were worn why was it turning over before I pulled the starter out > and now 10mins later No go ?? stuffed if I know I need a beer-

So I pulled the starter out again and checked which way the worm shaft was spinning and it was clockwise-so I reversed the Stator Housing so now the worm drive on the starter is spinning anti-clockwise ( when I installed it before it was turning clockwise and after install it was just spinning ) so now after install it's not spinning But won't turn the engine over even with a booster battery attached- so it's back to what it was doing before Dragging grunting and not turning the motor over-when it does turn it it's not fast enough to start it ? BTW I just had my mechanic put a new piston and rings in it as well and he had to kick start it as well.. So I am totally frustrated with the bike now and I will either have to kick it or clutch it, I just tried clutch starting it down the driveway in second and it just locked the wheel up. I am very wary of kicking it because about 6 weeks ago I was out on a ride and after a break stop it wouldn't e-start so I kicked it and it started but as I folded the kick lever back in with my leg the kick lever flicked back at the front of my leg and almost broke the bone in the front of my leg-I had a huge deep gash and it's only just healed after 5 weeks- never heard or seen that happen before on any bike- they can kick back from behind the leg at times as we all know but this was in the opposite direction and the engine was running ? If anyone has any thoughts or suggestions I am at my wits end here ! Cheers

Well it seems i'm just talking to myself as no one else has any suggestions and I've had No Replies here ? So I'm thinking maybe it's the auto decompressor not working properly- so to check this theory I pulled the plug out to check if it turns over with no plug in it and Yes the bike will turn the engine over and keep turning it over although not with a lot of ZING- so then I put the plug back in and the starter turns the engine until the piston hits Top Dead Centre and then it hits a big dead STOP! So now there are only 2 answers I can see, either the starter hasn't enough power to turn the engine or there is too much compression and I need to leak off some compression when trying to start it and the only way of doing that is through the auto decompressor -checking it's working properly, if I can't resolve this I am buying another bike and that's a shame as this is my 6th Husky-I've had not one problem with all the other bikes 2010 te510 Best bike I've ever owned, Te250 2011 ok-no e start but, 2014 txc310r great bike, wr 300 2014 what a weapon !- TR 650 2015 great all rounder---but this one--- has done my head in !

Could it be the sprag clutch for the electric start? The spring wears out and it wont work as needed to start.

It is the decompressor spring that has loosen its strength. When so the starter engine revs too fast and the decomp releases its starting position. Though its a pretty easy fix if you remove the valve cover. I restretched mine but its better if you find a way to make it more prestretched. We have a topic in here where ??? used a Dremel and made a new pocket for the spring. If you find that thread there are pics on how to do it. Dont buy another bike. You have a diamond in your garage

Thank you for the reply, I will check that out, exactly my thinking too- it must be something to do with the Decompressor, that's the only thing that makes any sense of it all now, Cheers

Hi thanks a lot for the reply about the Clutch Sprag-, but I don't know much about that, and that part/all parts is/are sooo expensive for the older Huskies here in Australia, about $ 300 just for that- and the more I keep spending I'm getting too far above what this bike is worth to get rid of, and I've already spent a lot already to rebuild this bike so as much as it pains me if I can't fix the issue for a reasonable amount of money I will just block off the starter hole with the tc250 blanking plate and sell the bike with no e-start.....and buy something with less dramas...Cheers

The thing is that youll need the decomp even if you block the starter. There are enough topics about guys who have broken the kickshaft because of a non working decomp. You dont need to buy any parts for the fix. Its just a day in the garage with your own labor . I have not read about anyone who have found a broken spring after the disassembly. There are probably several but........ have never read about it. If so you need to find a replacement spring from another bike. Search on ”decompression/decomp spring” on eBay. Youll find many and pictures to compare with your own. Will take a while to find the right one but will not cost you much. When you take it appart youll see easier how you can solve the issue. Some prestrech the spring a little more. In some cases you have enough space to get more tension to the spring. In the last case youll probably need to do some manufacturing by your own. I dont know what skills you have

The spring can also be preloaded with a washer or spacer underneath that gives the spring a pinch of extra load. That makes it follow the cam more closely. I did it to my 250 with success.