TE449 crankshaft locking tool/valve checking

I am gearing up for valve checking my 2011 TE449, and am curious as to the configuration of the tool used to lock the crankshaft at TDC (part # 8000H5009). Pics in the manual only show the remaining exposed threaded portion. Has anyone used the tool? If so, could I make one, or is it too specialized? Is it just a threaded length, or what?

Also, how are shims sold? Separately, or in sets? Assorted sizes, or do you have to specify? You don't know what you need until you check. Will the valvetrain hold together while waiting for shim delivery, or, if needing adjustment, don't ride until I have new ones?

Marc

Hey Marc, not sure of your location but, over here in Oz, the shims are sold individually from the dealer ( two different types, as in the inlets are different to the exhaust ). They are also a different size to the standard items as used on the Jap 250 and 450 machines..... So in reality you will have to complete the valve clearances and order as required....... As far as the crank tool is concerened. I had to complete a full engine rebuild on my 2011 tc, so actually had the motor on the bench. I located the piston at TDC and used an T piece allen key to hold the crank in the desired locked position. The allen key had the ball end, worked a treat mate.....I would summise that the delivery of the desired shims (if required at all) would be fairly quick. Once dismantled for inspection, I would be loath to assemble again to go for a quick blat only to pull apart again only days later as it is not a five minute job. Cheers Alvsey and happy shimming

Alvsey:

Thanks very much for your prompt reply. I am in Victoria, BC, Canada.

I didn't think about having to disassemble it a second time after waiting for shim delivery. You're right. I would just wait.

Thanks for the Allen alternative.

Marc

Alvsey:

Thanks very much for your prompt reply. I am in Victoria, BC, Canada.

I didn't think about having to disassemble it a second time after waiting for shim delivery. You're right. I would just wait.

Thanks for the Allen alternative.

Marc

Alvsey:

I didn't think to ask. Would you happen to remember what size the Allen wrench was?

Marc

Have you actually pulled the valve cover yet? I did mine last night and it was a MASSIVE PIA. There is a whole mess of wiring that runs along the frame rails above the engine that need to be moved to allow the cover to come out. Even then it is a struggle to get everything apart.

If love to get my hands around the neck of the "engineer" who designed this thing. The valve cover can't come out until the spark plug lead is removed. The spark plug lead is bolted to the valve cover but the bolt is nearly directly under a frame rail so it can't be accessed via socket. The bolt is protected by a raised flange so it is not accessible by wrench. It was such a bitch to loosen one small 8mm bolt that I considered resorting to a 5 lb sledge a few times.

Once I got the valve cover off I was presented with stuff that looked nothing like what I had expected to see. On top of that I'm not sure how the shims are accessed with the frame rails directly above.

This bike was built with no consideration for the fact it must be maintained. In order to get anything out, three other parts must be removed. Think I'm just complaining? .... try removing and replacing the top section of the airbox. Took my an hour and a half to figure out how to get it back in place and it is only held in place with three bolts.

Hey man 449 and 511 best bike ever built. If you don't believe me you can read about right here on Husky Cafe.

Sorry Marc, I can't actually remember what size allen key I used. I think I still have the old crank assembly at home in the shed (not sure if I chucked out ). I will have a look tonight when I get home and check. Wont be able to answer back until the same time tomorrow. Either way it wont be to hard to figuer out. The T bar allen keys I have only go up to 10mm (standard set).....Suputin ! wicked hey mate, not the easiest bike I have ever worked on. Like I said, I pulled the whole motor out so access to things were alot easier, although still had to think about things for a while at times. First time round is always more awkward..... Try working on the clutch side while the bike is still in the frame.... Remove outer cover, all good. Remove outer casing not good. Have to remove the clutch assembly and basket first. Then remove outer casing only to discover you cant get the last bolt out as it is too long and fails on the frame.....complete engineering modifications, cut bolts. SWEET !.. LOL Anyway lucky I like messing around in the shed for hrs at a time, what else would you rather do, mow the lawn !!! Air box removal is a nightmare !

The problem is I've been working on an 81 RD350 LC recently and it is about as complex as a spoon. Super easy to work on and everything is accessible. Then I move over to my 511 and within a half hour I am having homicidal thoughts towards the engineers who designed the thing.

I used to own an Aprilia SXV which has the worst reputation but it was mic easier to work on than the 511. I have a mechanic friend who is happy to freelance so I think I'm gonna suck it up and pay him to do it. At least it will be cheaper and more reliable than the dealer.

Suputin, Hammer, and Alvsey:

Thanks for your comments.

Hammer, so far, this is the best dual I've had, but I've only had three Yamaha DT200 two-strokes before, so that's what I have for comparison.

Suputin, thanks for the heads-up. I haven't opened it up yet. I understand what you're saying about the designers. Separately, everything is fine, but, together... I can just see them laughing as the bikes are shipped off: "HAVE FUN, MORONS!"

My '89 and '95 DTs had tool kits (which included screwdrivers) under the right-hand side panels, but the panels were anchored with screws. You needed a screwdriver to get to the screwdriver.

Alvsey, thanks for your efforts. No need to look. I will figure it out when necessary.

Marc

When I had to drop my shift lever one spline, I ended up using telekinesis on the bolt, as neither a box wrench nor socket would clear. I think the designers should be forced to work on their own products, to teach them to make things accessible.

Marc

I Just bought the tool from Trooper Lu's Garage. $7 Aussie dollars + postage http://www.trooperlu.com.au/

When you thread the tool up into the crankshaft, do not forcibly turn the crank. If you do, you will bend the tool and it will stay there until the cases are split apart.

See Post #6 here: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te-511-valve-check-advice.39421/#post-379073

I check my valves every ~1000 miles, and it is quite easy. I put her on a center stand, put in gear, and turn the rear wheel to get TDC. If you don't mess with it after that, it will stay at TDC without using the special tool. Also, you do not need to remove anything to get the valve cover off. Once you get the valve cover loose, it will only come out the RIGHT side. Just lift the wiring to the side, turn the valve cover a bit, and pull it out. once the cover is off, checking the clearance is cake. I do NOT change my own shims though. It is only $100-$150 USD for an adjustment (including shims), so I just let the dealer do it. I have only needed one so far. Oh, and once you get the spark plug "lead" out, cut off that raised flange and it will make it much easier in the future. These bikes do not usually need adjustments very often, so you shouldn't have to mess with it too much (YMMV). Good luck!

Oh no...so wrong there. It was designed and built exactly like this to be maintained by...anyone but the owner!

I have found checks to be easy, but I am going to fork over the $200 the dealer wants for re shimming as a) I cant have shims on hand as they are uber expensive and b) I dont recognize half the parts of the valve train.

I got so used to the screw type adjusters on the KTM RFS - in hindsight that was a brilliant design. Husky gets a D- on the valve maintenance. The upside (and VERY good news) is that all season of flogging the motor and they haven't moved a hair. At this rate, I may only have to buck up once every 2-3 years for a pro to shim it. I'm good with that...I just feel like like a putz paying to have my valves adjusted...

BMW dealer had my shims for $7 a piece (Same shims as a G450X). Assuming you need to change all four shims at the same time your looking at $28. Not to much cash IMO. There is enough on line support here on CH to pull off a valve adjustment!

I wasn't too clear - on every other bike I have had, I have had a shim kit with every conceivable shim on my workbench. Makes a one-effort valve adjustment a no-brainer. I'm, like many others in the US, a solid hour in traffic both ways from my dealer. That adds an astronomical bit of difficulty into what could have been a very simple process.

I believe they use common size shims like 9.5mm or 7.5mm, not the special ones like ktm uses.