Hi folks, I have a bought 08 TE510 that is now giving me a bit of a headache. It has been running although since having it on the road it isn't producing the power I'd expected. It has the power up kit fitted. It struggles to get anywhere near the red line and pops and bangs on the overrun as well as not idling well and very easy to stall. Thus far, I've done the following to the bike: - New spark plug, washed the air filter, new oil + filter plus cleaned all the gauzes. Had the injector out and cleaned it. I've checked the inlet manifold between the throttle body and head and I can see no cracks and the rubber is nice and supple. Tonight, I can't get the bike to run for more than a few seconds since changing the fuel filter. I've replaced it with a Fram (G12) part from my local car parts store; the original was pretty dirty. I've had the tank off the bike hooked up to a spare throttle body and injector installed. You'll see the set up in the video below. With the pump running, the injector produces a good spray as I'd expect. As soon as the pump stops, the pressure soon tails off, is this normal behaviour? Is there a check valve in the pump that should retain the pressure? With the tank on the bike I can hear the fuel pump working OK but can't tell once the bike is running. I've taken the fuel pressure regulator out of the pump assembly and there is a small nick in the O-ring. Is it possible to get a replacement FPR as Husky don't sell it individually? I've had iBeat connected to the bike and there were no errors showing. I also have a good blue spark. I'm a little confused and not sure where to go next. Cheers Sam
1. your going to need the FPR back in. You should be able to just replace the nicked O-Ring (use Viton as its fuel safe) - this should only cost a dollar or two. 2. put pressure gauge on the outlet of the tank, with the pump powered up you should have about 43psi. Once done let us know what the results are....
The ECU powers the pump for a few seconds on start up. then it stops if it does not sense the motor running. Your ECU may not be getting the "run" signal. To check turn on IGN the pump should prime then stop. As soon as you kick the bike even a little the pump should start agin.
I have had some success :-) With the pump out of the tank I soon spotted that the hose clip I used on the original pipe to the new filter was not making a good seal. So I replaced that length of pipe with some heavier duty fuel line and fixed that. With that fixed, I was expecting that the FPR would eventually relieve some excess pressure but it didn't so makes me wonder if the pump is weak anyway? Thankfully, the FPR wasn't leaking due to the damaged o ring though. As a result of this, I did get the bike running somewhere near full power for around 45 mins. No more popping on the overrun and suddenly it was quite happy lifting the front wheel more readily through the gears. The fun was short lived though. I washed it off and then it was difficult to start, eventually cut out following back fire that popped the throttle body off the inlet rubber. Now I'm back to where I began when I first bought it. It will start and run but bogs down when I rev it up and back fires all over the place. It idles erratically and won't obey any adjustment to the idle screw. :-( The pump has been back out again and it's not leaking anywhere internally. Haven't got access to a fuel pressure tester but I have ordered one and I've also got a replacement pump on the way. At least I know that it will go well when the fuelling is good!
Just for fun, check your valve clearances, costs nothing but time .... unless you need to buy a couple of shims. The only time mine has backfired is when the valve clearances were out when I bought mine, it was also hard to start and hard to keep running.
Some days later... I've got it sorted. My fuel pump was way down on pressure, see my vids below. With the new pump on, as expected, the FPR relieves the excess pressure back in the tank. Thanks for the help with this one :-) All I have to do now is sort all the other issues... leaking rad, inability to select first gear/dragging clutch, oh and a sheared off fork pinch bolt that previous owner bodged!
One thing I have learned if you ever get an OEM bolt out, throw it away and put in an after market replacement. The Italians seem to make their factory bolts from soft smelly cheese, not metal.
How is your battery? These bikes need a good battery! Not just to prime the fuel pump for startup but to supply a steady current to the ecu. We were experiencing gremlin troubles like you with our original/old batteries on our '08 TE's. Don't screw around with a heavy lead acid, go with a quality lipo. I bought 2 of these and 1 charger for our '08 TE's a year ago and couldn't be happier. They are that good!. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-BTL09A120C-Lithium-Phosphate/dp/B00F9LPIAC/185-5075354-1299409?ie=UTF8&keywords=battery tender BTL09A120C&qid=1435117640&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
