TE511 "FAIL" and will not start

Hey guys, just a heads up with an issue I had on my bike. Was riding around offroad the other day and it started sputtering and just died. I got it to start back up after a few minutes and rode it around for 10 more minutes or so and then started heading back to the truck. It would randomly sputter on the way back and then finally died with FAIL on the dash and would not start. I was close to the truck so I just loaded it up and went home fearing the worst. I just started messing with it this morning and started with all the common areas (TPS reset, checked connectors, plug ground on side of head, etc.) nothing worked and when I was power cycling it the last time I noticed the JD tuner had no lights coming on. I started inspecting the connectors for it and noticed that one of the pins had partially popped out the back side of the connector. I stuck it back in, plugged it in, and she started right up and is good to go now. Just an FYI for anyone else that has this issue. I really wish I could get map #3 so I could eliminate that failure point . Keep the rubber side down, unless of course you are doing a backflip.

Just send your ECU to Zipty like I did. The best $40 you can ever spend.

I did and they could not update mine.

Powercommander 5 and you can make your 511 run much better than you can with map#3 upgrade.

Wife would kill me if she found out I spent $600 to make my bike run a bit better. Do any of the sponsors here have a deal for the PCV/autotune combo? Also, is the pcv/autotune install just plug and play like the JD? You have to replace the O2 sensor right? does it just screw right on where the stock one is?

Best deal I can find is $489 shipped for the PCV and AT modules from HERE

Just try the module by itself first. If I have anymore used ones, I can cut you a deal on one.

$269.99 is a great price. I would get that and load my maps onto it. This way you get two separate maps after you add a switch.

The part # is for 449 and is different than the 511 on the dyno jet site. I don't know if it would make any difference?
449 is 23-005 511 is 23-007?

Different maps that you are going to swap out anyway.

No, the AT comes with a different sized bung that needs to be welded on. Find a good welder and take your pipe in and have him weld in the new bung.
I had my PCV for about a year before finally sucking it up and getting the Auto Tune. The bike ran great and flame-out free with just the PCV which is
why I was a little reluctant to pony up for the AT but I'm glad I did. I don't know how or why but the At has made my 511 scream like it never did before.
Wasn't expecting to notice anything but it's noticeable. It's seems to really rip when I switched to learn mode but my base map (I thought) was about the
best my bike would get. I guess it's still learning.

Take my ignition map and add it to your autotuned map. Just be prepared for another whole level of laughter.

Thought it might be like that, just different maps. I ordered it, am looking forward to more, though, the FMF with
The open exhaust (map 3) is awful good. I have been reading up on what can be done and it seems it will be
a lot of fun to have so many tuning options.

Anyone familiar with the Dynojet Wide Band 2? http://www.dynojetwb2.com/ From what I can tell, it will do the same as the Auto Tune but will also drive an AF gauge. The cost is about the same as Auto Tune, or sometimes a little less.

I believe the wide band 2 also is the updated sensor that records settings faster than the original.

Looks like we will be using powercommanders on the new Husky's. KTM pulled some bs with the new tuners. First, it costs $3000 to get the HST, then you have to pay a monthly subscription. And if that weren't enough, only official BIG dealers will get to have one. Each vin# is recorded and you have to be online to change the map so if you modify an ECU out of specification, they come in and terminate your license. Retarded.

Sounds about right. Stuff like that turns old guys like me off. I like the huskys I have now, but the future looks
Like change. That is about the only thing we can be sure of anyway.

I'm so sorry to sound like an idiot, and apologize up front for what may seem like a very stupid question, but I would greatly appreciate any feedback and/or photos you could provide with regard to how to remove the ECU. I have a 2014 Husqvarna TE511, and I want to do exactly what you said in your post. i want to remove the ECU, and send it to Zipty so they can flash it with Race Map III. I have Race Map II, and I'm having all sorts of problems getting the bike started, and keeping it running. I'm having the same issue that Bryce talked about in his initial post above where when I'm at speed it starts spitting and sputtering, and then stalls out. get is started again, and then runs for a few minutes and does the same exact thing. I'm totally at a loss. Never really been a mechanic, but I guess I need to learn with these Husky's. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance guys.