TE511 or TE449 Dead Throttle Question?

How common is this problem?

"There have been a few times where I would twist throttle and no juice"

Another Post some time ago....
"Dead throttle, Something with the Dual Throttle to smooth out the power response. "EFI with Keihin D46 throttle body". One Throttle control the other and the TPS plays a big part of the secondary's opening. When the TPS malfunctions in a bad way, it acts like you run out of gas and pops like a honda that needs it valves adjusted! Someday I will find some documents on how that all works Maybe someone that works with EFI or the power modules can weigh in someday!"

I know you don't want to hear this because it is not helping you with your problem, but my TE511 runs extraordinarily good. No kidding, best running bike I have ever had, and I have had many motorcycles over the years. Once I did a quick reset of the TPS positioning and corrected the EFI air bypass screw setting, it ran excellent. This Cafe Husky forum is a source of good information from good people and has been priceless to me. The final icing on the cake was the installation of a JD 6X EFI Programmer which allowed me to so easily fine tune my EFI with such flexibility that it is incredible. Great starting, no flameouts, no flat spots, no popping, clean reving, more mid to top end power. The $220 cost of the JD unit was undoudtedly the best and cheapest thing I have installed on my bike.
SAM511

Thanks SAM511. Just looking to get feedback on the problem. Is this isolated or wide spread? That being a Keihin problem with the dual throttle design..

I haven't heard of "that". But if the TPS is out of adjustment- any efi will run bad- apparently the 449/511 is pretty easy to set- there's a series of steps without tools or computers. Which is nice. Sam knows that and has posted it.

whats the steps?

TPS Quick Reset
- Fully Warm Motorcycle
- Disconnect the battery for approx 2 minute, then hook it back up again.
- Turn the ignition key on.
- Turn the throttle to full stop and then back again.
- Turn the ignition key off, wait 5 seconds, and then turn it back on again.
- Start the bike without touching the throttle.


TE511 Air Bypass EFI Adjustment
- This is the big brass screw high up on the side of the EFI body
- 2 ¼ turns out for a TE511 (+/- 1/8th of a turn) should put the minimum air bypass back in range.
- It is the only screw on the throttle body that should, or can, be touched without major drama.
- If the screw is too far out it will push you into a corner like having the throttle open a bit.


I will be surprised if these 2 procedures do not help. Do the TPS reset twice to be sure.

Also, just a thought but take the EFI cable cover off the side of the EFI main body and check if all the cable adjusting screws are tight and that the cables wind around the cam correctly through its full range of movement. While you are there you might as well check for the correct cable backlash/freeplay. There is a section in the owners manual that touches on this.

Good Luck and let me know how you get on.

SAM511

My bike does this to

Thanks, I will save this in my backpack. My 499 idles high, or at least I thought it did. Maybe I should look into the bypass as well. I think Ill do that after i gear it down a bit, way to fast at idle in the woods for me.

My 2012 doesn't have an ignition key. Any idea what the steps would be in this case?

IMO, set idle by feel, not so much the numbers.
Idle should be just low enough so that 1st gear does not crunch too much when you first engage it and just high enough to avoid flameouts/stalling.
There is a small compromise involved, but ultimately it is where you are comfortable and I must say the installation of a JD 6X EFI tuner has only added more flexibility and fine tuning.
My TE511 engine is outstanding.

SAM511

Im having stalling in low revs.... thought it was my lack of skills initially but i gave it to my friend (top rider) he said its splutters and stalls of the bottom... i reset the tps but by the end of the ride it goes back to stalling habits down low.... its a short stroke motor, not good of the bottom.... ive done the air bypass screw as well at least i got my engine braking sorted...does that Jd tuner fix the bottom end flame outs? i hate having to rev the bike to 3k just to keep it going in the technical stuff... my other mates with suzukis and bergs dont have this issue.... help please?!!

I gather you have installed the Racemap Plug under the seat ?
What muffler are you running ? Not that big Lafranconi unit that comes with the bike ?
The JD tuner will allow you to tune your motor at 6 throttle openings including idle and off idle.

SAM511

No ignition switch on 2012's. What a bummer.
I do not have a solution for you at this point other than suggest you have it checked and reset at the dealer.
A correct TPS setting is critical to having a perfect motor.

SAM511

hi sam

thanks for your reply... i have the akro pipe. Its set to race map II.... the 511 tends to stall alot more than the 449, even reviews have pointed this out... i think they run the same fuel settings.... being a bigger combustion chamber on the 511 i assume it runs leaner hence the stalling... the jd tuner will hopefully fix this issue.... i can only hope otherwise buy buy bike for me...

Hi SAM511. Thanks for the instructions on the TPS reset. I have not tried this!
Good information. Reminds me of my Dodge Diesel TPS reset!

......Dealer had the bike reset the TPS and dialed it in. Bike runs great for about the first 200 miles then....
First issue is the Dead Throttle. Let off the throttle and hit it again bike moves. Happens about 4 times every 200 miles of a ride! Almost like the secondary throttle did not open! Return the throttle to ideal then hit it again Bike then takes off! Why on earth would it stick or not open?

Ive a 2011 449 with the 2012 map in race map two. The jd tuner is the key to solving the stalling for me. The bike appears to run rich at the idle rpm and lean at the top rpm. Ive set my jd tuner to run leaner then standard at low rpm and very rich mid to high rpm. Gearing is important ,15 48 is mine and i race. A full fmf transforms the bike and going into corners at walking pace with out using the clutch in third gear is possible. Full fmf and jd tuner is going to cost $1000....sam is giving first class advice on tps, air bypass screw etc.

Next up is suspension especially them front forks.......sam you go first...lol

I am only starting to hear of this phenomenen in the last couple of weeks on Cafe Husky. I have not experienced it. My first instinct would be to pull the cover off the side of tye EFI body to see if the cables have not gone slack and in need of some correlation adjustment of the 2 cables, because if this is the case it could occaisionally be causing a partial derail on the throttle wheel. Worth a check.

SAM511

Bill, I believe the JD 6X tuner is the last part of the puzzle but I did not actually completely follow the recommended settings from JD. In Australia we mainly ride sea level in moderate climate and I have the Husky Standard Akropovic Muffler installed that we get with the bike.

2011 HUSQVARNA TE511

Green Low RPM 3

Yellow Mid RPM 4

Red High RPM 5/6

Green/Blue Idle 2/3

Yellow/Blue Mid Crossover 3/4

Red/Blue Accelerator Pump 5