Has anyone tried using the 610 steel side stand on a 630? Even if too long or short it can be easily modified in steel. The aluminum stand on the 630 is just the pits! It needs to land farther outboard and maybe a bit aft. It's something that HAS to get fixed!
Most 610 owners are looking for a better stand, and the aftermarket has the 610 covered by a few mfr'rs. The oem 610 stand was bad enough that I considered the sturdier 630 stand until I found the lengths were different. I'm pretty happy with the 630's oem stand, but that's after a few RFS and 2T KTM's have had me on edge The only time it's sketchy is when the Safari is full to the brim and the ground is a little uneven, then the weight up high has you triple checking your parking job.
I am making the assumption that the 610 stand is steel, is it not? If so, then the geometry can be tweaked. 'Have one ordered, but if aluminum, I need to jump on that order right away! The stand on my WR is great and I'm trying to more or less duplicate where it touches the ground and how it tucks up when underway.
The 610 stand is real shyte - do a search and you will see a litany of failures (mine failed on my first day!). It is steel but VERY thin and has a design weakness where it is welded to the solid pivot hinge and is weakened by the weld. A recent post talks of using the KTM 990 stand. If I were closer I would happily swop my 610 for your 630!
Yep, the 610 stand sounds like crap, but never the less, I bought one. When it comes in I intend to cut it up, increase the wall thickness and weld some gussets at the top similar to those on the WR. At least it is steel and I will be able to modify it. Not so on the aluminum stand. Also, I will add a piece to the left foot peg plate to give the stand a solid stop. It seems like a lot of work, but I want to be able to stand on the peg to moun when I have gear on the back. There is just no reason these bikes should have weak or less than optimal stand position when it is down. The aluminum stand is made as it is to clear the passenger foot peg brackets. Without the bracket it could be angled out and back a bit to make the bike stable when the stand is deployed. I'll post when all the work is done.
The older 610 stand on my '03 is very rugged steel. I recently picked up an '08 TE450 stand (same design only longer) to swap out for the aluminum stand on my '11 TE310. It's a tad long and could reach out more from the bike, so I'm going to take out about 1/8-1/4" in a wedge to accomplish both needs. Weld it back up, a bit of paint and we're done.
Ken, I was planning to mod my side stand as well but changed my mind and now will be installing this instead. http://www.cigarmikes.com/2011/11/te630-centerstand-85shipping.html It adds about 5 lbs to the bike although down very low so minimal impact. But the convenience and practically has won me over, i.e. chain maintenance, tire changes, safety when parked, oil changes, etc. Price is very reasonable as well. _
I've been thinking about one of these too. I just bought the Uptite skid plate and have asked CigarMike if both will fit. Both attach at the centerstand mounting lugs on the bottom of the frame. We'll see what he sez, unless someone already has the answer. I'm wondering how difficult it will be to put the bike up on the centerstand when it is loaded with gear.
Agreed! I will have both since the side stand is essential out in the rough. Hope he has the stand located so that either wheel can be pulled and the bike remains on the stand. 'Bet so! I could leave my extending bike prop at home.
Mike used my TE 630 for a couple of fitment sessions on that stand. The prototype he brought over was very close, and the next time he brought it over it was ready to go. He does a nice job on these.
The CM center stand works with the Uptite skidplate. The mounting holes in the Uptite rear bracket need to be enlarged to 1/2".
