Hey guys, I went out for a nice ride today with some friends. We had two brand new TE630's with power up kits and an 09 TE610 left over still corked up. The guy with the 610 plans to have the dealer install the pu kit at the first service. It ran fine but did have some popping and backfiring on deceleration. My 630 and my other friend's 630 ran flawless. It will be fun to switch bikes to compare their differences. They all need to be broken in with some miles before posting any reviews. I do have a question for SM or TE 630 owners out there. On the instrument cluster there is a bar display in the right corner for the tachometer. There is also a mode that shows a numeric tachometer reading. When the ignition key is turned on the LCD display lights up and every image available comes on briefly. I can clearly see how many bars are available to light up. When riding today I noticed that revving the engine to an indicated 8,000 RPM on the numeric readout, the bar display only read about half way to max. The numeric display seems accurate. The other TE630 does the same thing. Is this normal? Pictures in the owner's manual show the bar display with a much higher reading then I've seen. The 610's display is different so I can’t use that for a comparison. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I don´t trust the bar display on my 2010 630 either. `Tis (methinks) too low. Seems like it´s only there as an indicator but not as an exact measurement.
The RPM bar graph is pitiful! Useless! Could not find any info in owner or service manual. Seem like the only way to fix it is if there is a graph update included in an ECU reflash. Have not heard of any ECU updates for the 630 but are quite common for FI bikes.
XLEnduroMan; Per the sticker on the rear fender of the T630. "The machine should not be operated in full-load condition for the first 4 hours." I have over 7 hours on my bike. A quick blip to 8k in second gear won't hurt anything. With that said....Yes, the bike still needs more time to be fully broken in.
The following is from my 2011 Husqvarna TE630 use and maintenance manual: INSTRUCTIONS FOR RUNNING-IN The exclusivity of the design, coupled to the high quality of the materials used and the accuracy of the assembly, guarantee the higher comfort right from the start. However, when running for the first 1500 Km., SCRUPU LOUSLY follow the rules mentioned herebelow. Please note that FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH THESE RULES MAY COMPROMISE THE LIFE AND THE PERFORMANCE OF THE MOTORCYCLE: - warm up the engine by running at low revs before using the motorcycle; - avoid quick starts and never rev up the engine when in low gear; - ride at low speed until the engine is warmed up; - apply both brakes several times to settle the pads and the discs; - do not maintain the same speed for a long time; - do not ride for a long time without stopping; - NEVER drive downhill with GEARBOX IN NEUTRAL, but shift into gear to brake with the engine if necessary, thus preventing the fast wear of the brake pads.
As far as I can tell it is. I asked the same question too. While on the dyno the indicated numerical RPM's and dyno RPM's matched perfectly so I know thats working just fine. The graph is just a bit funky and it will only go about 3/4 of the way to the top on mine. I would sure like to have a gear indicator, shift light and a RPM graph that graphs correctly...
That's what mine says, too. That said, someone on this forum asked if the Husky chainsaws had you break them in by cutting smaller logs.
The break in procedure for our bikes is very controversial. It really shouldn't be the case. I'd say use a combination of what the oem recommends and common sense. Husqvarna has to warranty their product so I'd imagine they will be vague with their "run in" procedure. Let’s not forget the team of lawyers that have a watchful eye on anything put in print. These bikes have very tight tolerances and are built to last more than a few days . They better for what they cost! Thanks for all the info guys. Ride safe.
