The miles have been slowly creeping up on my TE630 (about 7,800 miles now, bought it at about 4,900 miles) and figured it was time to check the valve clearances as I didn't know if the prior (original) owner had ever checked or adjusted them. Went through the following steps to free up access to the valve head cover: Drained most of the gas, closed both fuel cocks and disconnected the tube at the right side fuel cock, disconnected the tank vent & overfill lines, disconnected the fuel pump electrical connector, and disconnected the fuel line at the throttle body to facilitate removal of the gas tank. Removed the spark plug. Had to remove the bolts connecting both radiators to the frame to allow more wiggle room for removal of the valve head cover, even then clearances were a little tight. The workshop manual I have for the bikes specs the intake valve clearances at 0.10-0.15 mm and the exhaust valve clearances at 0.15-0.20 mm. The intake valve clearances on my bike were both at 0.13 mm and the exhaust valve clearances were 0.18 mm on the left and 0.15 mm on the right. Glad to see everything was still in spec. I also checked the spark plug gap, the workshop manual specs 0.70-0.80 mm and I measured mine at 0.75 mm.
Yeah, fairly low compression and valves that aren't oversized and underbuilt mean that you shouldn't get much creep. I replaced one shim at ~2000 miles because it was on the very high end of the spec and hadn't changed since the first check. No changes since then, I'm at ~15k miles now.
Sounds like you have it dialed. Changing a shim is a cakewalk since you can simply slide over the keeper and access the shim bucket. Replace the plug, throw the old one in your tool roll in case you drown it.
I was pleasantly surprised with the elegance of this design. Just make sure if you do the exhaust you put the retaining clip back in the middle, and not too close to the (rider) left side. I'm pretty sure that the right keeper having a bit too much play is what contributed to the premature decompressor failure on mine. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/auto-decompressor-on-a-630.45551/
Yeah, I replaced the spark plug a few days after checking the valve clearances once I had a chance to pick one up. Given the current mileage it was ready to be replaced.
Not sure if this is the right place for this but I am stuck in San Jose del Cabo, Baja California Sur and need help with a 630 that stalls and will not restart for 15-20 minutes. I'm thinking ignition coil. It runs for 20-75 miles then stalls while riding and will at times not restart for up to 20 min. It has always restarted so far but to travel 1350 miles on MX roads will take forever and is to say the least not safe! Is there a different Moto coil, automotive coil or whatever that can be modified to work? There are no Husky dlrs to be found in Baja and the chance that any coils are in stock is limited! I originally thought that it maybe Pemex fuel related and bought octaine(sp) booster which did not make a difference! I pulled the spark plug wire and tested for spark it appeared to be a really weak yellow spark, then tested it again and had a white hot spark, replaced the spark plug wire and it started right up. It runs really well, when it runs, but when it shuts down it is never close to a nice pullout, which are not common in MX anyway.
You may want to pull the tank and look for areas of the harness that may have rubbed/worn through, seems to be a common problem with all the wires shoved in a tiny gap between the tank and frame. I was going to suggest checking the plug wire, mine pulled apart. Check the contacts on the coil, if you're getting weak spark, but you're still actually getting spark then it's likely the coil has a loose connection or corroded connector.
