I find myself in a position where I will keep my TXC450 for at least another year. That said I am going to start a weight loss program for the machine (and me too but thats another story). Ideas are plenty and alot are here on the site. Can we throw/pitch in ideas for this venture for all of us. I am happy with my all plastic acerbis wrap around handguards light and have taken a severe beating. The smaller cell battery is a definite I have acces to Ti hardware but that will need cost -benefit analysis (read expensive stuff) More Swiss cheese in my skid plate (cheaper as I all ready have it) or a Hyde plastic one (maybe) cant change my sprocket its new supersprox bi-metal Tires/tubes/wheels are big on my list, those ultra tubes are bullet proof but are they are like an xtra tire in weight. I have always said that if all the motor hardware including all the steel plate bearing retainers were ti that we may see as much as a 5lb drop in an all ready heavy motor.(??) But for me that will not happen, unless I was Mitch Payton building a Nat caliber weapon with no limits on cost.
the tuntech bat and the tubliss tire thing are the two EZest places to loose weight. One is high placed and one is unsprung so there is 5-7 pounds of critical weight. Look at the tire weigh as well. The rest is hard and $$ will little gains IMHO.
IMHO the new generation EFI bikes all need slim and very low fuel tanks that transfer the fuel down aside the cylinder, and not along the cylinder head, as it is now. Curb weight really isnt as important as center of gravity and of course gyroptic effect. But yeah--ditto to Kelly. Ebatt and tires/tubes. You can run lighter than air type gases in your inner tubes. Pro's do it. My 380lb Dakar bike carries the gas way down low, and so it is surprisingly 'nimble' if i can use that word, becouse it has such a low center of gravity--it was a real eye opener to me. Just saying that fuel down low is what off roaders need to work on now that we have the EFI to pump it up. I have a theory that we only need ONE radiator, maybe a slightly larger unit like the GBX model from the UK. With TWO fans on it. That would save a few lbs up high. Havent tried it, and yes there would be some plumbing issues, but it could be done. Fans are much lighter than radiator fluid.
I'm looking forward to the responses. One question I've been wondering in my case. I run a Teraflex rear, many past users have said it'll run flat. Can weight be saved by going to lightweight tubes to offset the added weight of the tire since they're touted as being so bullet proof ?
we are now stocking the e-batt.they weigh 3-4 pounds less than the battery that comes in our current huskys.we just got our first shipment this week and am looking forward to testing them out.dan
I would think that it would take more then 5lbs to make a noticble difference. That said I did just order a Turn Tech battery on principle alone. Stock battery is like a anchor and saving that weight seems logical even if its all in my head. Tires and tubes would reduce unsprung weight and have an impact on the suspension and handling. I agree that location of the weight on the bike has a much bigger impact on feel vs overall weight itself. I dont want to know the overall weight of my bike, it would just mess with my mind and there isnt much you can do about it.
thanks Dan you will be hearing from me, R Yep I agree these 2 places (wheels and Batt) are the first and best places to hit and maybe the only practical places to hit. How about no e start---just kidding also I am close to the tubliss decision but with slime in the tire for cactus spine tire seal,,,I just hate how slime fouls the TP gauge with goop, any suggestions for that issue. PS I run low TP all the time 9-11 rear and 10-12 front even with the tubliss I don't think I would go any less than that as it thrashes the sidewalls with flexing torque and starts to give a vague squirrely (flat like) tire feel, although I know one pro level guy who always uses single digit pressures F and R.
As for expensive Ti hardware it would best be placed first in the unsprung areas of the machine sprocket mount, disc mount axle clamps, those areas I may explore and the very costly axles themselves (no go for me $$$$$ too much money for at my ride level too little gain)
They say that the Tubliss system keeps the bead of the tire close to the rim so it is harder to ding a rim. I am not a big fan of slime either and have no solution for that. The lightweight battery makes a difference as getting rid of any top heavy weight does. I am really happy with the turn tech 2.5.
Take out the kickstart shaft and gears? Just use the e start. A dealer here has done it on new TE250 and it saves a reasonable amount of weight. Dave
Ti springs? Ti/carbon slip-on? Hyde skid with properly drilled holes. Assuming you get the Tubliss set-up, what are some of the lightest tires out there and which ones do people like for traction in each type of terrain?
the Ti spring is a good one and can drop several pounds. But i have hear of performance and longevity issues. Mike, i totally agree on the tank and mass centralization. Almost more important than overall weight. Ride a new Berg and it is obvious. In 94 they built the tank they should have stuck with. It is a work of slim, low slung 3.4 gallon art. Notice the petcock is even with the carb bowl!!!
the OEM silencer is not too too heavy but I would think a nice LeoV or other, quiet S/A type afterm,aftermarket one could save some weight as well,,but then its a tough act to throw 600-700 bucks at the bike to save a 1/2 pound. I will weigh my OEM Arrow as its configured now with the S/A-noise cap in.
Ditto here on the kicker, the battery, tubliss inserts and Ti spring. From there it gets tough. Your Bi-metal sprox is on the heavy side, an Ironman would be a better choice for saving weight. If you could get an FMF Factory 4.1 Carbon / Ti muffler you might loose a little. Mounting the battery in the skid plate, moving the fuel pump down in the spot the kicker takes up and going to Ti on all your big bolts first would be good moves. Save the small bolts for when the fever gets really bad.
I used a YZF KYB Ti spring all Motocross season, saved about 2 pounds with it alone, never had one mechanical issue and will certainly put one onto my TC250. It's tough to beat the Arrow Ti system as far as weight goes, but if FMF makes a Ti/Carbon slip-on, which I do not think they do, that might be a bit of a saver. I know not high on bike, but YZF Ti pegs a bit lighter too, I used them as well. I had TONS of Ti bolts everywhere, currently taking them off for new bike and it sucks cause it takes so long, but concentrate on bigger ones such as triple clamps, subframe, bar mounts, etc. That's about it, good luck and keep us updated. Can't wait to start putting this TC together. Blake
ebatt or turntech this is my first weight save effort. and what Ah to use As for now after research I like the Turntech for its conventional built in terminals and modular layout. the 2.5 Ah is so tempting for its weight saving and 120CA as opposed to the OEM Yuasa YTZ7S 130CA its so close to the same crank power,,,and outside temps are fairly steady here in SoCal. I just dont want to get stuck with 2.5 when I should have got the 5Ah for the TXC450 and lose that quick start ability. Anyone throw some info about experience with each or technical know how, thanks.
A little off topic, but in reply to the TuBliss comments and slime. I use only 2 Oz of slime in each tire. I've used it successfully in my truck tires too. Just two ounces keeps the air from leaking out. Pretty cool, and without paying for Nitrogen. Plain air is 71% Nitrogen anyway, why would I pay for that????????
I just installed the 2.5 Ah in my TE450 and it starts it just fine. Havent tested it at slow speed with lots of starts but can always us the kicker if needed. Might start just a tad slower when cold then stock.
