I can not beleive the replys and interest this has raised already in 24 hours. I certainly have never heard of boot driers. Good stuff !
Having 2 pars of boots helps also... Just buy your next pair before the current ones are totally trashed.. Now you have 2 ridable pairs of boots. Use mink oil on them to help waterproof them and keep them pliable...
Put master link clips on the inside of the chain so if/when it fails the master link falls out and away from your cases instead of smashing a hole in it. Learned that the hard way....
Don't trim the wrong end though. As for boot driers, stuff your wet boots with shredded newspaper over night to act as an absorbent As a maintenance fitter of 20 years and now a trade teacher, this is the greatest piece of knowledge I can contribute, keep it clean, keep it tight, keep it lubricated, amen. I challenge anyone who resolves a problem to its root cause that it didn't come back to one of those 3
What kind of small electric impact wrench? Like a small drill type with attachments? Battery operated?
I like the idea of a modified vise grip for squeezing the master link. I usually have to get into my tool bag to get my actual chain press tool. [Too cheap to buy two] This idea should be more convienient.
two tools that I just love and cant live without http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...=80019&zmam=88421133&zmas=1&zmac=49&zmap=4935 http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...dy-II-Aluminum-Tire-Tool.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch
Forever I fought with piston circlips until I bought this: http://www.accu-products.com/accu-p...stallation-tool-2-stroke-model/prod_3288.html Simple and it works.
I've never bled a hydro clutch but I do not think you can use it for that. I think the proper way to bleed a hydro clutch is from the bottom up and maybe the correct tool to use is a syringe.
add this one: find a good plastic funnel that has an end o.d. about the size of the fill hole i.d. on the motor. I just screw my funnel into the fill hole and pour in the oil, with it "threaded" there is enough support to hold the oil container upside down unattended for a good drain out of all the oil from the conatiner. Also it fees up your hands as you pour in the oil. The funnel I found is one of the longer smaller diameter cone type so it doesnt interfere with the bike when I screw it in. I even scribed the proper oil amounts on it for the bikes I use it with, to keep my confused mind OK, (1.6L, 1.8L etc etc what bike??? I forget.)
Magura actually makes a bleed kit that is well worth the couple of bucks it costs, I think KTM aftermarket catalog has them. This is what I use for my Magura clutch bleeding, it even has the screw in fitting that goes in the place of the valve. The thing works great and is super easy to use. here it is in rocky mountains catalog http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...&navType=type&prodFamilyId=8804&stockId=31792
AROD - you are right!!! This is exactly what I use... don't be fooled with the picture of a MT Bike on the box. Uses the same exact process and syringe on my MT bike Magura Brakes . I reccomend buying a piece of clear flex carburetor drain line to easily see the fluid. The white plastic tubing in this kit is somewhat stiff . Kit includes all teh fitting you need. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magura-Bleed-Service-Kit-Magura-Brakes-Rim-Disc-/230481575281 Most MC shops carry them. Bought mine for $27 at malcolm Smith.... One important tip... when rebuilding the clutch slave cylinder fill a small cup or bowl with Maguara Blood/fluid and rebuild it under the surface of the fluid in teh bowl. Helps immensley with bleeding. Push from bottom slave cylinder to top bowl. Don't run out of fluid in your syringe. Learned this tip from our very own Robertaccio. It works very well and is easy. T
