125-200cc Thickness of Stock Base Gasket - WR 150 2012

Hi everyone
Can someone please tell me what is the thickness of the stock base (cylinder) gasket for WR 150 '12 (the one that came originally from the factory)?
Thanks!!

Thank you! Unfortunately I discarded the old one without thinking I might need it for reference

you will need to set your squish, look at your manual for the procedure

.5 mm is the stock thickness from the ones I've seen, and the discussions on here. Squish is typically in the 1.2 mm range, so going with a .3 should put you around 1 mm which would be fine for that bike. You can run less, and it will bias your power toward the bottom. That may be a benefit on a WR.

Thank you all! very helpful. Will start with the .5mm gasket and then check squish. I read that squish of approx. 0.040" on these engines is optimal so will aim for that.

Thanks again.

I wouldn't call it optimal, but it's as close as you're going to get with the stock combustion chamber. You can easily go as low as .75 mm (.030") but it will move your power band down a little and make it much stronger off the bottom.

You can throw the barrel on and measure the deck height without a gasket. Then measure the squish band in the head and calculate what you need to get there. You can also check squish with solder, without a base gasket. There's enough clearance.

Ok so I received my new piston and it's stamped "C". The cylinder is stamped "A". Any thoughts if this is ok to run? I don't have access to tools to check piston/cylinder clearance unfortunately. The cylinder is low hours and the cross-hatching is still good.

If there is any doubt I could probably re-run the old "A" piston with a fresh ring, as the piston still looks great.

there is technically a difference in size, if the cylinder has had work in the past it might fit if oem it could be tight

Not sure what piston you ordered but there is normaly a size written on the box.
I do vaugly remember that a Vertex that is A - B or C is not the same sizes as a Wossner A - B or C
If nothing to measure it by you could just drop it in the bore and see how much it rocks compared to the old piston or better still use a fealer cauge to judge the clearance , Not ideal but will give a pretty close idea if its safe to run.
I will say if it has no lubrication holes drilled on the exhaust side I would not run it till they are drilled as I have seen one nip up within a mile without the holes.

Thanks for the responses. The cylinder is OEM, low hours and has not had work in the past.

New "A" pistons are on back order at both Halls and Bills. I don't want to risk running a piston that is too tight for the bore, so I will stick a fresh ring on the old "A" piston, which still looks in great shape, and re-run it this time. Perhaps save the "C" piston for when the cylinder is more worn!

I can run the new ring that was supplied with the "C" piston on the "A" piston, right? It is stamped with the same number as the old ring that came off the "A" piston so I assume it will be identical?

The difference in piston sizes from A to B or B to C is .01 mm or .000393 inch. You could double that for the difference for A to C. I have been told by husky factory guys you could run any piston in any cylinder since the difference is less than one thousandth of and inch. I would check it with a feller gauge just to feel better, heck you could compare the 2.