Last night I removed the rear wheel to install my new Motoz tire. I noticed the the bearings on both sides were very tight. I could not spin them with one finger. I had to wedge two fingers in tight to get enough grip to turn the bearings. This can't be right, can it? Can they be binding?
Always pack the backside of new bearings if no seal is present. Always pack your lip seals and coat axles with WP grease. I've gotten lucky in a pinch by inserting a needle fitting under the bearing seal and pumping in some grease to get by for a ride or two. Use the correct drivers for seals and bearings. Use caution driving in bearing to protect hub and bearing integrity.
I have issues with rear bearings due to overtightened rear axle nut. But yes if they don't spin freely they are in need of replace.
The wise choice is replace them although I have lubed them and used them for a long time after this condition sets in. If you have side to side play in the wheel when mounted replace them for sure.
How does the rear wheel spin when torqued down with the axle & nut in the swing arm (with chain off)?
If bearings are seated properly,center spacer between bearings is proper length and strong enough you could conseviably torque to a 1000 lbs or until the nut or axle fails. All the torque pressure is transmitted to the inner race of the bearing, not the bearing itself. Therefore if by tightning the axle it locks up or gets hard to turn wheel something is wrong. If you get drag from it pop out the seals on hub not bearing and try it again, if it loosens up then it's seal drag no big just a little grease will fix it. If not get into it deeper and find problem. Later George
It spins, but not too freely. The bike is still pretty new (600 miles) But I did notice that the bearings and the seals looked dry. When I roll the bike around the garage I hear a squealing sound. I thought this was from the rear brake or the seals. Turns out it's the bearings making the sound. So, is there a way to remove the axle seals to get to the bearings without destroying them? I know I should just replace them, but I figured that just to check out the bearings maybe they just need some lube.
seems odd that they would be shot after 600 miles. If you ride it the way it is, check the bearing hub surface for heat after a 15 mile ride on the pavement. If the hub is overly hot to the touch around or near the bearings you may have a problem. Also compare to the front hub for temp after the ride. Bad bearings will develop heat during use.
I have the same problem on my '07 TE 250. I noticed a strange kind of squeal coming from the rear tire when pushing the bike. After loosening the axle nut it cut the sound so I figured it was the wheel bearing. I just tried to pack as much grease as I could get into the back of the bearing with my finger. It helped but did not totally cure the problem. THe front wheel squeaks too and my bike only has 300 miles on it. Not too happy about that.
I have seen some of the best brands of bearings come with barely a dab of grease from the factory, and i have seen some cheapo brands practically dripping. In general good brands do last a long time, but like the saying goes.... hey, ship happens.
Wheel bearings should always be hybrid stainless/ceramic. OEM dirt bike wheel bearings are a joke. Its 19th century technology. Cost was once a problem-but now hybrid ceramic bearings are only a bit more than all steel bearings. Do yourself a favor, and be an early adopter. Ceramic balls, steel races, a drop of gear oil, and you are good forever. Plus the bike goes faster... One day soon i'm coming out with a complete line of hybrid ceramic bearings for our bikes. Watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NW7wKg6OSFg
