TE/TC TX300: finally got a good ride in.

I took the day off yesterday since there was a break in the hot weather. To date, all my rides on the TX300 have pretty much been dial-in rides. I've been anal with this bike in terms of changing one thing and going for a ride to test that one thing. And it paid off.

Yesterday I went up to one or our more challenging local single-track OHV areas. And I was really able to put the bike through its paces -- or at least my version of that. I didn't do any tweaking. Just enjoyed the new bike.

We have a variety of terrain in this area. From smooth twisty single track to rocky butt puckering climbs. And I have to say that the combination of an already smooth power curve, as far as two stokes go, combined with the lectron makes this bike so versatile in any terrain.

The lectron has eliminated any hint of a hit, and the bike just pulls from 0.1 rpm through to screaming fast in a nice linear way. It's actually more linear than any 4 stroke I've ridden.

With the suspension dialed in I can just charge though the trails that are layered with fist sized rocks, and its like they aren't even there. On faster fire roads and trails, I've noticed that this bike really likes you to weight the front end for traction in turns. I'm going to have to figure out if this is a setup issue or just an attribute of the bike. It seems to under-steer without being in full on MX turn position with inside leg extended for counter-balance. I'd love to hear from other TX owners on this subject.

In the trials section like rocky climbs with multiple rock step ups this bike handle it like I imagine a trials bike would (never ridden one). But it is so light and balanced and the front tire comes up with just a flick of the wrist that I feel super confident hopping up the steps and tackling climbs like that.

The other thing is with the clutch preload spring in the #1 position I have a really nice 1 finger clutch with a wider engagement zone. That makes it real nice in the technical sections. Combine that with a very modulateable throttle and I feel like Graham Jarvis.

Seems like the bike gets pretty good gas mileage too. I think there are at least 55 if not 60 miles of technical single track in that (smallish) tank. Anyone tested this?

Raise the forks in the triples to the 3rd notch. Turns like a dream

Cosmo we are working on the mileage test now, looks to be about 30 mpg for me on an average ride, for us that's some transfer dirt road, core single track, rockys, sandy river bed= a real good mix of terrain and throttle positions. So for at the moment I'm estimating @ 30 mpg. that gets us out to a safe 60 mile range. but like I said Im in progress of the test.

I looped my float bowl vent hose per JD recommendations and that made a dramatic improvement in gas mileage.

I had to back the comp way off. 6 from full out and reb. 4 from full out. This seemed to help the front end from wanting to push. Air pressure is stock.

did they say why to do this? (IOW- what does it buy you?) because if you loop it above the height of the overflow tube excess gas might go into the engine and also you could not use the carb drain without unlooping it (NBFD); and if there is a loop below the float level line it might get restricted with gas and not let air in (not a big deal, most carbs have 2 other atmospheric vents).

So besides these 2-3 minor disadvantages, I'm wondering what positives there are? maybe it would allow you to run a higher float level (increasing the carb signal)? I dunno.

Yes, they said to do this and have pics in their instructions. Even with the float set to correct level, fuel spills out the overflow. Most people don't realize this is one of the major contributors to poor fuel mileage on all carb bikes. Not sure what you mean by carb drain?? if I need to drain the carb, I remove the bolt on the bottom of the float bowl where I access the jets.

I never had any kind of problem and my mileage increased dramatically. The loop just prevents some of the excess fuel from spilling out. Gravity prevents it from going upwards and any fuel left in the hose just gets burnt off at the next WOT.

I guarantee if you do this trick your fuel mileage will go up and you won't have any downsides.

FYI I have always (on other bikes as well) created a standpipe drain upwards bend in the drain hose. Its no big deal the standpipe is simply a overflow drain to keep the fuel level at a "safe" level.
Most important is to have a reasonable float level, one that doesn't allow the level at static to be above the standpipe, for me this level allows me to tilt my bike over to @ 45 deg at most without fuel pouring out. PS I have never looped it like James shows but all my carbby bikes have an S bend in them.

Cosmo - Sounds like a fun ride and glad you got to enjoy your new bike.

I have the forks at the second line down and no troubles turning the bike. The one thing I have noticed is, unlike my old bike, this bike needs some counter steer like a rode bike in some turns. I would suggest giivng the rear shock spring one or two turns on the spring to decrease the sag to get the weight transfer you like to turn better.

Okay, got it- this mod just keeps the slosh in the float from going out the overflow. Which I suppose, if you're losing fuel in every corner or g-out, could really add up.

I guess the thinking is that the loss of overflow protection, 3rd vent, and float drain are minor compared the gain of fuel saved (hell, flooding via stuck float needle was a huge thing until the japanese invasion at the end of the '60s. Nowadays its rare)... so it's probably very true.

95- lots of carbs (most?) have a slotted drain screw to drain the bowl via overflow circuit. I do not know about the new Miks.

Did this for this past Saturday's ride. Front railed in turns a lot better. Very happy now.
Definitely need a radiator fan kit. I boiled it over doing some boonie bashing this weekend. Trying to cut a new trail, and the climbs were steep and soft so the motor and clutch were getting a workout.
I'm sticking with 60:1 ratio, the bike likes it.
Ended up getting my bicep skewered by a cut manzanita branch that grew back into the trail a bit. Dam things are so tough!
Then I jumped off a ledge and landed with my front tire just on the top of a rut which it then slid into and it sent me off the bike and messed up my thumb. My thumb is now purple and I can only bend it about half as much as normal.
That crash has reaffirmed to me that the stock radiators and louvers are much more stout that on previous bikes I've owned. I'm starting to think a rad brace isn't necessary.

What is the Clutch adjustment preload spring position #1 you talk about? Is there an adjustment in the Bellville set up I am unaware of?

Yes, you can take out the 6 bolts on the last (outermost) ring and rotate it into a new position. There are three markings on that piece that correspond to different preloads. I think mine had I, II, III for low, medium and high preload.
Check out Chris Birch's post here for pictures: https://www.facebook.com/ChrisBirchNZ/posts/853573618052239
I've had mine changed for 3 rides so far, no problem, just nice and easy pull, with a slightly wider engagement zone. Great for the slow technical riding I do.

EDIT: the factory setting is in the middle. So I went one position to the left.

Awesome, thank you, did not know this!!! Let me guess, the manual says "not to adjust" ahhaha, crazy dudes....