TE/TC TX300 stripped clutch spring retainer bolt

Was trying to move my clutch spring preload adjuster to the first position to try that mod out. Was torquing one of to bolt to the owner's manual spec of 10 nm / 7.4 ft lbs.

Got to about 7 nm and POP! Fucker stripped. Can I to anything to get a ride in?

Also, anyone know which part on this diagram I need to replace?:

http://www.ktm-parts.com/AOMC/OEMFI...NGINE_-_2017/Clutch/06|~32|~0005/06|~32|~0017

I'm guessing it's #1, 2 or 4??

Dammit!!!

That link won't go to the specific diagram . It re directs to the first page of bike selection

Okay, sorry, try this one: http://50.249.93.75/munnracing/catalog_hqv/printpart_2007.cfm?componentid=9074&model=TX 300

I'm sure I can figure it out if I pull the clutch pack out tomorrow (I'm out of daylight now), but I just wanted to get an idea how much $s this mistake just cost me.

time for a helicoil kit

That and a new torque wrench. And a service manual - which, when I asked my dealer to order one, he looked at me funny and said they aren't available yet.

Oh man. I'm an idiot. I started second guessing myself and took a 4th look at the owners manual torque spec. I was looking at the torque section for the TC 125 by mistake! Ahhhhhhhhhh !!!

The TC 125 uses 10nm, the TX 300 uses 6nm. Big difference for an aluminum part. :-(

What do you think of that first setting on the clutch, is it the "x" position? Cam.

X Y Z (or 1 2 3) are all there for correctly adjusting the tension on the belville based on the overall clutch pack thickness. Don't go changing it unless you're measuring the thickness accordingly. It's covered in the shop manual but you may find it on the web. My 2 cents worth. I'd think you need a new outer hub or try a helicoil.

The factory puts all bikes in at the middle position - regardless of clutch pack measurement. Chris Birch uses the first position which is less preload. I've got about 35 hours on the clutch since changing it to the first position. And for my type of slow technical riding it is way better. Noticeably less pull force required.
If all I rode was open, fast trails, I wouldn't bother. But all I ride is twisty technical single track. So to get a lighter clutch is key, and I'm willing to sacrifice a small amount of clutch pack life. But note, there is no evidence of this reducing clutch life.

yea you feel silly......I set my dial torque wrench to zero out the needle started tightening to the TX300 6Nm.........but on 2 of them they felt like ready to pull the threads-----I read the fffing dial upside down and when they hit NINE they just started to feel like pulling and yes I did that 2 times......I left them alone but for sure in a future maintenance activity I will time cert all of them......I shoulf have used InLb I would have noticed the upside down number.

I ended up replacing the part they bolt into. FYI, it's under $100 to replace.

I'm surprised you didn't get a new Rekluse Radius CX and slap it in... haha

I've never ridden a bike with an auto clutch. So for some reason I have a bias against them. Plus I like to do cross-training type of riding, so clutch control is part of that. Seems to me that if you are an auto clutch guy, you might as well go to an electric bike.

I was just riding a 501 with an autoclutch. Not used to them so stalled on a super steep hill and instantly turned into a backwards freight train down the hill. Exciting. I will stick with a clutch. Cam.

Stalling a 501 is hard enough to acheive and stalling a 501 with a properly setup Rekluse is 10 times harder. Sounds like the bike needs some setup work. A properly setup Rekluse would be undetectable to an unsuspecting rider. The new radius cx acts and feels like a regular clutch with the added benefit of being stall proof. I'm happy with or without one honestly.

You couldn't stall my FE 501 on any hill climb or anywhere else for that matter even if you tried with the Rekluse.
Unless of course you accidently hit the kill switch.

The auto clutch works great for me.
I have had 3 surgeries on my left wrist with 2 Titanium plates and a few dozen screws still holding it together. My middle thumb joint is about froze straight so I can't roll my thumb around the bottom of the grip like I would like to.
So sometimes holding on to the bars tight means not letting go with my fingers to work the clutch lever in a real challenging section or a hairy situation, so for me its been fantastic.

Taken me a few places easily that I would have struggled before.

2 of my Buddies that have rode the bike didn't even know that it had an auto clutch. Until they came back and I forced them to take off in gear without using the clutch.

Hey i am not slamming auto clutches. The stall surprised me too. Big time. Maybe a flameout? Not sure what Clutch model maybe exp. Cam.

I get it Cam, I've been on and off the fence with the auto clutch hype over the years. I recently installed the new Radius CX in my 2015 300 and it's a game changer compared to the core exp 3.0 I ran in my TE310. My humble opinion