TE/TC TX300 subframe removal?

I just got my lectron in and I'm wondering how big of a job is it to remove the subframe to install the carb?

I would just check the service manual, but when I was at the dealer the other day they didn't have any, and the drama surrounding order the stinking number plate backgrounds distracted me long enough to forget to order the manual.

Cosmo Its easy it takes minutes remove both side covers, remove the seat (1 screw now on LHS!!), remove the muffler 2 screws, loosen the 2 upper subframe screws, remove the 2 lower subframe screws tilt up the subframe as needed and block it up if needed. Im learning quickly......
amazing how stiff the airbox boot material is, I thought I was going to do the old push the carb back to pop it out....no go. Had to do the subframe tilt method.
BTW I take it by now you have all those star drive tools, if not get out and get them, I have them as drivers and as socket mounted tools.
Note also on the RH cover screw (that 1 screw) there is a bushing there, I already glued it onto the side cover, it went flying off when I first time removed the cover.

BTW LH side cover (filter access) has 3 nipple plugs, pop them out then simply slide the cover up and fwd to release the 2 fwd slip on mounts, LH same but with lower screw and 2 nipple plugs then grip and slide the panel fwd to release the slip on mounts. Im liking the new layout it super simple and easy to work with

Oh! I didn't notice the bushing. I've already pulled that bolt once to put the FMF TC silencer on (needed a sparky). If the bushing did fall of, it's long since been consumed by the dogs. They love to chew on plastic ;-)

BTW, this Christmas I gave myself a 1/4" impact driver. It's one of the $70 craftsman jobs with the tiny battery. I've only charged it once since I bought it and it works great. And I picked up some 8, 10, 12 and 14 mm quick change nut drivers with magnets. And a complete set of magnetic Torx and Alens for it. It makes your tasks go so much faster! Love it.

I don't know about you but, for $10K+, I think they could have put in a sight glass, for f-sake. I pulled "oil monitoring screw" and the crush washer fell off, didn't notice. Found it on the floor, and immediately knew what it was. But 800ml seems spot on for the amount to fill, so I doubt i'll be pulling the screw very often.

Are you going to try the lighter clutch position? I think stock is in the middle, but I like a light clutch. So I might try it.

I never use those oil level screws (They are shite and always seem to weep once you start opening them, plus the threads are minimal and pull very easily. A sight glass is a potential fail point from my experience, Glen Helen 2006 TE450 roost from another bike shattered my 4T sight glass, luckily it was on a warm up lap and I heard the engine get loud. I even hate the glass at the back of the rear brake master cylinder.less is more on these machines, the beauty is in the total simplicity. Just drain and fill with the recommended amount of oil . truth is an oz or 2 either way is not going to end in failure. No worries man. BTW that little bushing on the side panel is metal (alloy) it one of the deals to stop from crushing the plastic with the screw. Friend and ISDE trophy team winner has seen brake cylinder glass failures but never on his bikes..he rode mostly Japanese race bikes, Brembos have windows Nissin doesn't.

I just leave the Belville washer/spring alone as it came from OEM then set it where Rekluse directs and never touch it. Yes I have core exp 3 on the way.....I found where I really miss it just after 2 days of riding the TX....more on decel as a slipper than on accel as an auto because I use the gas/rpm and clutch to get full lock on acceleration most of the time anyway.

Robert, you were right about the sub frame. Took no time at all. I was replacing the stock intake boot with the shorter xcw version and decided to pull the reeds and have a look. Sure enough I can see daylight though one of the reeds. No seal at all. Guess I'll be putting ANOTHER $160 into the bike for VForce reeds. :-(

Ugh.. Im 100% sure mine will look the same...I should just order them now I suppose..

truth is reeds should be sealed against the frame , however when the pressure waves inside the crankcase are positive. Positive, When the piston goes down during the transfer portion which is when the check valve (reed valve) is needed and operating preventing the charge from blasting back into the intake tract , that pressure will act upon the reeds to seal them. Yes I know that's not really the intent...but it will happen.
That said if there was a way to watch the reed pedals even if they are slightly open in "neutral" position they will be forced closed by the back pressure and of course opened from the vacuum when the piston raises.
But with all my science of pressure waves stated......I already have Moto Tassinari V Force 4 Reeds for my TX300 on order....... After replacing the cage on my TE300 I can feel well the V4 system works. Its just another bullet proofing mod to get a good clean baseline configuration with no weird variables to deal with when getting the induction system dialed in.

I have done the Lectron,4-2 metering rod set @ 2.002",RK TEK Head,vforce reeds,xc-w intake flange,Gnarly pipe and powercore silencer, and modded the air box. Pulls like a tractor and runs awesome!!!

Did you put in the vforce 4R reeds?

Oh, can you post a pic of your airbox mod?

Just my 2cents on the Mikuni. I do know Mikuni from other bikes but don't have 300 with one of them on it at the moment.
In my opinion it's not a bad carby, it is actually very good. I do like lectrons too so I'm not ditching them! (From way back since King Kenny used them).
Anyway, hear me out. The Mikuni is a shorter carby and it likes, due to this, a nice steady airflow.
The '17 KTM models are actually worse than the Huskies in regards to this as they have a more restrictive airbox contrary to previous years.
By having leaking reeds the airstream gets disturbed till the return flow pushes the reeds closed.
As mentioned I don't have a KTM or Husky 300 at the moment but a mate just got a KTM and he couldn't get the jetting right. He tried JD kit which improved it, but still not very good. He was about to push the buy button on a Lectron.
I told him to solve the reed problem first and increase the airflow by having a look at the airbox. He fitted different reeds and took the dremel to the airbox. He took the JD kit out and had another go at jetting it.
Now it's better than ever and no more jetting or high fuel consumption issues! It pulls way better from low down all the way to the top.

I agree, when it's jetted right its a good carb. But the problem I've found especially on my WR300 was that when the weather changed, it would need tweaking. So on a day where it starts out really cold in the morning, and warms up by mid afternoon, you could actually see a difference.

Rode the bike yesterday for a real ride with two fast guys, one on a YZ250X life-long rider that could ride anywhere, any pace, one on a '17 250 XC-W, and one ex-racer on a Husky TE450 (didn't see him much). It had rained the day before and we were riding all hilly single track -- slippery wet red clay dirt with lots of rocks. The suspension is freeking amazing in the rocks at speed. For a short time I took point on and lead the group up one of the most gnarly trails we rode and found the handling to be very forgiving. I was going kinda slow to medium paced and was able to clean every obstacle -- lots of step ups followed by step ups and the light front end would just float over them. Didn't have a single one of those tip overs when getting hung up on gnar and not being able to get your footing. I think it is the combination of light weight, mass centralization, and slightly lower seat front to back.
The only problem I had was with the crazy hit with the yellow spring on the more slick sections. I ended up having to short shift to keep the front end planted and rear wheel hooking up. For my area with non-stop single track the green spring is definitely going in. And the stock AT81s are going in the trash bin. I've never liked them and still don't -- period.

same carb has been on many bike of the year Yamahas at least the YZ125s that have won shootouts for many many years.

I probably would have kept the mikuni on if I hadn't already had a 38mm lectron -- which, admittedly, I was very happy about.

BTW, the guy on the 250X, yesterday changed his pilot jet on the trail. I think the 250X uses a Keihin carb, though.

I did install the new vforce reeds, here is a picture of my air box mods...

Nicely done.