TXC250 Frequent Stalls in Colorado technical stuff

It's the 2013 model. I'm a 1970 model.

The issue I run in to frequently is that this bike flames out on 1/8 - 1/4 throttle with clutch feathering in really technical uphill climbs. It tends to get me in trouble more than other bikes I've owned and ridden. I feel like I'm feathering the clutch a lot. I'm not sure if the lack of low end torque is a problem with the FI on this bike, the nature of the motor or my riding technique (possibly all 3). Once I stall, I struggle to gain traction from a stop because I need to rev the bike rather high to prevent another stall, causing spin out and poor weighting upon take off. Then Turrets Syndrome kicks in and my buddies begin busting a gut.

I might also add that the bike doesn't give much warning of bogging before my pelvis is in the bars and the bike stops dead in it's tracks. Other bikes seem to give more warning.

Admittedly, some of this may be my technique. I entered this sport in my 40's with nothing but MTB experience. Most of the people I ride with have been on dirt bikes since birth. That said, I LOVE the steep technical stuff where the group piles at the bottom of an obstacle and waits to see who goes first. I'm a 160lb recreational rider with experience owning a DRZ400(sold) and Sherco X-Ride (current trail bike). I've ridden KTM 250F's, Honda 250F's, 200-300 2t's...None of them seem to stall as badly as the TXC250R in the technical climbs.

The bike has a 13/52 sprocket set up, which is slightly lower than stock ratios. I have a JD kit installed as well, which seems to make more difference at high RPMs. The bike really comes alive at higher RPM's, but I seldom ever ride single track at high RPM's.

Is this just the wrong bike for the mountains? Do others have similar experience with this bike in the mountains between 8K and 12k feet elevation? Would a Rekluse solve the issue? Should I be loose more teeth on the front sprocket?

I love the suspension and size of this bike with respect to ergonomics and seat height. It suits me well because I'm 5"7 and I feel like this is almost a 7/8 size. It's also fairly light for it's class. I'm willing to tweak it more to get me up the snotty stuff. Suggestions?

I have a Rekluse and it would likely keep the bike alive if adjusted properly. Have you set TPS lately? Also turn up idle a bit. Wouldn't really hurt to have it 2000-2100....maybe even a little higher. I do ride my 2012 310 (TXC ECU and injector) at 8000 and above but at 70+ and often solo, I'm not hill-climbing

ETA. Nephew has a 12 also and it came with a Kouba-Link that lowered bike an inch or so...allowing his feet to touch...another helpful item for slow going and hill climbing.

Was your last bike a 2 stroke?
I ask because you cannot dither the throttle with a 4 stroke. Smooth on the throttle and use the clutch to feed out power.

Also, turn up your idle. Like to 2300 rpm.

70+! Man, you inspire.

I have the TPS at 0.680 and checked it as recently as June. It doesn't have problems idling. Idle screw is backed out to ~42 clicks, more than typical, probably due to my elevation. The bike just doesn't seem to have enough grunt to allow me to jump on the pegs and hop up the rocks from a dead stop without flaming out. When it does stall, it tends to throw me forward like somebody stuck a broom handle in my rear spokes. I'm not sure if the bike is dialed in perfectly. Hot motor starts after a hill climb stall tend to be iffy, but achievable if I crack the throttle a smidge, which adds to the frustration. Otherwise it runs like a beast, especially at higher revs.

Instead of Kouba links, I went the route of the short seat from Husqvarna and dropped the forks about a 1/2 inch. I can touch with the balls of my feet. I can't do that with most bikes, tips of my toes at best. I still get in trouble occasionally, but it's fine 95% of the time.

My last bike is a 2 stroke and I do indeed vary my throttle a bit on take off too keep traction/avoid stalling. Your suggestion makes sense. I usually stall after WAY overpowering, loosing traction...then I back off the throttle and bleh - dead. I'll practice constant throttle, slipping the clutch.

I'll check the idle too.

I dont use a 1 way valve as i have found as thr bike gets hot the tank can presurize.

Also let the clutch do its job and slip it a lot more on that bike than any other bike you have ridden

Dammit guys. I was hoping you would tell me it's the bike and NOT my skilz :-)

Well 250's are known to have more power in the higher revs instead of the torque down low 350 and 450 guys enjoy to climb those hills.

You may not be on the right bike to suit your preferred riding style, a rekluse can definitely mask the problem and I would go that route before letting go of that sweet bike due to ergonomics. They are definitely sweet bikes for shorties including myself

funner than a mtb when going up though... right?

btw, do not think of the clutch as binary (in or out). use it lightly to take a little power off the rear wheel without rolling off the throttle. use it lightly to get the rpm's back into the powerband when you can't downshift. nvm- I just re-read the part where you say you're feathering the clutch. you definitely should have more than a 1/4 throttle to be in the powerband going up hill. downshift- if you're not in first already.

speaking of which- if you're not doing a lot of stuff over 40-45mph, you will love 12z-52z gearing.

if you have one, post a vid of an example of stalling on the hillclimb.

a rekluse would solve the problem. I'm not a huge fan but they're definitely become popular.

your idle is high enough IIRC. i think.

hunh. I read that as 70mph. glangston: props

The only time my bike goes over 45 is on the trailer. I'll order up a 12t sprocket.

Yeah. I'm not a digital clutcher. I'm familiar with slipping to stay in the powerband. Just having more trouble with this bike than most, even bikes I'm less familiar with. My Sherco is the opposite extreme (270 2t, trials trans). You can track stand the bike in first with minimal clutch, compress the suspension and launch entirely from the right hand.

The Rekluse is tempting.

Exactly......the 250's have very little low end. You have to ride it more like a 125 with the clutch.
The good news is the hydro clutch is very light and easy to use and modulate.

My 07 TE250 has good low end torque and dosent have a problem stalling,that being said,try to hone your clutch technique.
Steady constant RPM and feed the clutch in for hook up.
Works on my fourstroke and twosmoke . Practice.

I agree with the clutch advice, but that big-block engine is a completely different animal from dk's x-lite. Even the 310R is not quite the same.

disclosure: I've ridden a big block 310 & 450, but never a 250 4-stroke of either design.