250-500cc Uh oh...I can't get my "11 WR300 out of 1st gear

While woods riding at Tahuya yesterday I heard and felt a loud clank on my left foot via the thud transmitted through the shifter to my boot as I was shifting from 1st to 2nd. I did not hit anything and I was not traveling particulary fast or loading the engine hard. Just the noise, then no 2nd gear, and no other gear higher either. Can't recall if I was using the clutch or not while shiting. I was able to shift back down to 1st. Most of my attempts to get into 2nd were unsuccessful. Did manage to find 2nd a few times (about 1 in 5-10 tries could get it) and could move between 2nd and 5th, but as soon I got back into 1st I was usually not able to get past it. My riding buddy verified this condition so I know I'm not going crazy even though I only have about 24 hrs on the bike. I'm fairly certain my tranny is ok, but my shifting mechanisms is definetalely compromised.

So, any ideas on what happened and how to fix it? I'm likely to take into the shop next week, but thought I'd relay my misery in hopes of mining a few nuggest of information and advice from cafe readers.

Ditto!

Check it.

I think so too.
Hopefully the keyed joint between the selector and drum or the threads aren't screwed up from repeated shifting attempts while the parts weren't fully engaged.

Mine did the same thing at about 4 hrs. Here is a link that someone posted.
http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/wr-250-transmission-oil.23571/page-4#post-213141

Fellas, thanks for your responses and links to previous threads. I've gathered that my shifting woes could be one (or more) of several things. My 30 day warranty expired months ago, so now I'm debating on weather to take my bike back to the husky shop for diagnosis and repair ($100 minimum I'm sure), or just to dive into myself. Any advice? Regardless, it looks like the left side cover has to come off after I drain the coolant and tranny oil. Does the PV cover also need to come off? Will the cases need split? Does the entire shifting assembly come out w/out having to split the cases? So many questions...Assuming the tranny is ok and that the issue is only w/the shifting assembly, can I leave the motor in the frame, or will I have to pull it out as well?

If the problem is that the starwheel came loose and there is no damage to the drum, the cases won't need to be split. If that is the problem then fix it yourself. If the problem is deeper and you don't feel comfortable splitting the cases, you could pull your engine and bring it in to save money.
Oh and, the powervalve cover needs to come off to undo the linkage.

This is a very easy fix. Just be careful to remove the gasket on the PV cover before you pull it all the way off. Grab some loctite and you won't need any other parts. I even saved my factory coolant. I just moved the linkage to the side and removed the allen, cleaned it off, and added some red loctite. It's been 100 hours since then and no issues. If you get stuck you can bring it up to my house, but I may require that you come ride Walker Valley Gnar afterwards. HA!!!

Ok, I got the left side cover off and removed the pressure plate and discs, but now I can't loosen the nut holding the clutch hub to save my life. Using a flat blade screwdriver and light hammering I pushed up/flattened the tabs on the saftey washer (the tabs that were originally bent over the nut that prevents it from turning). I'm using a Motion Pro clutch hub tool (the vise grip type) to hold the hub and a 1/2" drive socket. I can't get that darn nut to budge. Now what? The nut is right hand threaded right?

yes right hand thread, try a rattler if you have access to one if not try tapping the spanner with a light hammer.

I use a dead blow hammer on the clutch basket nuts, obviously hitting the rachet handle in a loosening directon. Works great, harbor freight sells them cheap.

Use an impact. Very easy. I have check the bolt selector last night (she was loose, approx 200 hours on my bike ) and the whole job have take me about 45 minutes. Very easy and now the bike shift like it was new. My clutch seem to be in VERY good condition after 200 hours. Very indestructible bike !!!

Alright! Finally got the nut off this morning right before leaving for work with only one gashed and bloody knuckle to show for it. All I had to do was remove the 2" extension from my socket and get a tight grip on the hub w/my spanner. Funny how a 2" extension won't allow a proper distribution of torque. I'll dive into the shifter assembly tonight after work and let you all know what I find. Thanks again for the valuable insights!

With the clutch now completely out I pulled off the shifter assembly (part #15 per the parts manual) to reveal the plate (part #6), the sprocket with the 2 springs and clicks (parts #25, 29, 30 & 31), and the allen bolt (part #5) that is suspect in my shifting woes. Lo and behold, the allen bolt (and subsequently the sproket) was way loose (not even finger tight). I pulled off the plate and sprocket for inspection (both good) and reinstalled them after tightening the allen bolt. With the shifter assembly and shifter re-installed (don't need the clutch, right?) should one be able to find all five gears and neutral by simpy dry shifting without the main tranny shaft spinning? I was not able to do so. However, after slipping the clutch hub onto the main tranny shaft and spinning it clockwise as fast as I could by hand to mimic the engine doing so I was able to find neutral and go from 1st to 5th and back to 1st without issue. So, now I'll dig out the locktight and reassemble the whole shooting match including fluids and fire it up to see if my shifting woes are gone.

If it was loose (at all) that was your problem. You would need to move the clutch hub back and forth a little to get the transmission to shift. Get that thing back together and ride! Woohoo!

Good news!

Now I'm having problems getting the left side cover on. I can get it almost all the way on, but the power valve counter shaft (Table 3, part #6, see first photo below) that extends into the cover's interior is getting hung up on the power valve drive regulator (Table 3, part #5, see second photo below). I can't tell from the shop manual or Table 3 if the counter shaft needs to go behind the regulator or infront, and I don't remember how it was when I removed the cover...doh. I'm not able to determine what the end of the counter shaft actually rests on or is placed in (if any thing). If it goes behind the regulator, then how does it get behind there. I'm starting to feel dumb...all words of wisdom are much appreciated and good karma will come your way.

It goes in behind the "cup" of the ball ramp. The balls push the cup inward and move the arm.