Valve adjustment help 2010 TC250

Re-shimmed the valves yesterday, and I couldn't get my smallest feller gauge in the right intake. The Shim was a 1.65. So I installed a 1.50. After the install I still couldn't get a feeler gauge through. Shouldn't that have opened up the gap a bit? I'm not sure if I want to go to a much thinner shim than a 1.50.

Manual stated shim sizes 1.60-2.45. Does that mean I'm out of the adjustment range?

If a change of 0.15mm still does not provide enough clearance that means either the engine isn't at TDC for the inspection or the valve was being held slightly open at all times. If you are certain you are performing the procedure correctly then you need to keep going to a thinner shim until you get the proper clearance. 1.60-2.45 may be the only shims Husky sells but I don't think I would hesitate to use thinner if they are available. Otherwise it is time for head work.

Ok thanks for the reply. Bike is at TDC according to the service manual. I'll get another shim and see if that works. I wasn't sure how much thinner I could go?

it looks like Rocky Mountain offers Pro-X shims down to 1.20mm

Hello, does anyone know where to buy valves for husqvarna TC250 2010?
Maybe existing some replica or something like this made from steel?

I have one question about valve shims, last year i "shimed" one of the intake valve with 1.65mm shim to obtain appropriate airgap from manual.
Bike was work well but now i have problems with starting bike again, should i put smaller shim than 1.65mm or its time for valve replace?
I afraid that valve is not in good condition regarding thickness, or just valve seat is little bit pushed upward? I have not opened head yet so i cant say what exactly happening inside.

I bought valves last year from Motosport.com

Make sure the piston is at TDC and turn the engine over a few times to make sure you get a repeatable measurement. Make sure the decompressor is not holding the valve open too.

I had the same readings on the feeler gauge once, and when I turned the motor over again the gauge fell right in.

The 2010 TC250 is a notoriously hard starter.

What is solution for hard start?
Last year i have no problem with starting motor cold or hot but now i cant start motor without pushing it in 2nd gear.
Hot is better especially with hot start button.

I'd guess if it does not want to start cold, I would indeed check for a tight valve.

pay particular attention to the left exhaust valve under the de-compressor.

If you search this forum you might see where the early bikes had weak de-compressor springs.

Are there a lot of hours on your bike?

I have one of the 1st 2010 Te-250s in the states and after I got it set up it has been running fine for 9 years now.

I have the ex valve under the de-compressor a little on the tight side to help starting. Too tight of course and it will not start. Not a lot of wiggle room.

I checked situation into motor cylinder head and right intake valve is worn too much and was out of clearance again - moving up again for 0.15mm and there was no compression and because that back fire also have been detected.
So i must buy new valve and repair valve seat and everything should be ok.

But where can i buy valves, have anyone any idea?

I bought some from motosport a couple of years ago.

Where are you?