Ok, Ok, im a little ahead the curve again. I wont pick up my bike until next month but has anyone done their first valve clearance check yet? Are they 29mm shim on bucket or are they 10mm shim under bucket? Has anyone found a decent kit with 05 increments in the 260 range and not load you up with 210's and 310's. Cheers and thanks
Here's is what I've been doing for years on a number of bikes I've owned with shims for adjusting the valves. I've done this to some sport bikes I've owned, my KLR, my 950 KTM---and others--------no problems. First off-------you don't need to buy shims. With my method you'll never buy shims-----and you will be able to get the clearance to exactly what you want ------instead of just close using manufactured replacement shims. What I do is measure the clearance-----and calculate how much thinner a shim I need. Almost 100% of the time you'll need a thinner shim. Now---- use a flat sharpening stone (I have a flat diamond stone for knives) and slowly and meticulously rub the shim on the stone (one side only) until you have the thickness you want. I use a micrometer for these measurements -----------$15 at sears. You probably got one-if you don't---it's time you buy one--very handy. It's takes some time and patience---and you won't have to order new ones---or if they are wrong---order them again I guarantee someone will follow my post and say "BigDog you've removed the hardening---or you've made the shim uneven by doing this". Bull--------hockey I say. Common sense says you've not done this-----not much of that going around. Most cams don't even rub on the shim and are under a bucket and never touch the camshaft (it's just a spacer)---doesn't matter if it does such as on a KLR---just put the side you worked on down away from the cam. The best part of this as I said-------you get the clearance exactly like you want it. I "ALWAYS" adjust the clearance to the widest gap allowed---this will let you not worry about running a few miles longer than the recommended valve check interval. But Big Dog----------"with a wide as gap as possible it will loose performance" ???? Again----------bullhockey-------it ain't no race bike--and this ain't Nascar. And all this work didn't cost you a dime. I've had a lot of experience doing this with different motors-----I don't over rev a motor hardly ever----and after the initial run in of the valves and an adjustment (if needed) I always run another 20,000 before I look at them again---and usually I don't need to adjust them again at that point. I had 60,000 on my 950 and KLR and 37,000 on my WR250R--they only needed adjusting twice in that time. But that's exactly what I'll do with this motor---you can do as you please. This method does not apply to extreme high revving race motors ---such as in motocross bikes. BigDog
Thanks for the advice Big Dog, but i will be doing some serious kilometres this year and its faster to swap out shims. I will be doing this most likely on the road. Your method makes sense to achieve the middle clearance value for sure. My question still stands. Thanks and cheers
Takes a lot of time......I have too much to do to spend the time.....I do this http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/prod...l-29mm-valve-shim-starter-kit-kawasaki-yamaha M2C
Big Dog,thanks for the procedure. I ride a lot and one of the biggest hassles on valve shim maintenance is having the right shims when you have the top end opened up. Thanks for the tip. Big time and hassle saver.
I can vouch for BigDog's method as I've been doing the same to reduce clearances since my first thumper, an 02 WR426 bought new. I use fine sandpaper on a flat plate (my table saw) and use a figure eight pattern to keep the sides parallel. I've never had a problem with this method either. I bought shim kits and have yet to use a shim from them! Terramack, Regarding kits, my unused kits are marketed by Hotcams. You might want to see if they have a kit for the Rotax 650.
When I picked up my bike I asked about shim adj and the sales team told me they have to drop the motor to adj. Is this true?
I believe you pull everything from above the motor and remove the upper sub frame bolts. Then you loosen the lower sub frame bolts and swing it back. If you notice above your drivers foot pegs at the lower sub frame bolts there is a notch on the inside of the frame on both sides that allows the back of the bike to fold back and rest on the tire. Husky may well have found it is easier to pull the motor and sent out a bulletin.
Sorry, bit of a bump.. Seemed the most appropriate place though. Does anyone have a definitive diameter for the valve shims? I've been gearing up to check my valves, and have found 3 different sizing in my research 9mm, 10mm, or 8.9mm. Which of these is it? I'm looking at getting a kit from here: http://www.precisionshims.com.au/products/kits Just need the diameter and i'll be ready to go.
i measure 8.85mm but 9.0mm should work too. Certainly not 10mm. How many km are on the engine? They usually don't need adjustment as they come on the loose side from the factory and rarely get closer. High likelyhood that you won't need new shims and unless you have clear indications that they may be too tight or too loose i wouldn't bother checking.
There's only 13000km or so reading, and I wouldn't normally worry. However over the last 2-3000km's there's been increased noise coming from the engine (that's with an oil/filter change somewhere in the middle). It's most noticeable cruising in 5th at ~100kph. If I'm already in there checking the clearances, I'd prefer parts on hand if something is amiss in there. Bugger keeping it up on the stand for a few weeks whilst waiting for parts, or even worse putting it back together for a week or two to only take it apart once again.
i doubt you'd hear loose valves at 4000rpm and 100kph but i'm the same. I just checked the valves on mine at 6500km because i thought the engine sounded a little different at idle after i was back from a longer trip including 2000km of highway. Of course they were well within spec but peace of mind... You also have to weigh it against the risk of screwing something up while doing the work. It's not overly complicated but quite involved and it's easy to get dirt into the open engine. Be careful with the airbox. The stud for the engine vent hose is kinda fragile and don't forget to take the hidden screw on the bottom right side out. For that you have to move the radiator out of the way and for that better remove the front fender. But first thing is to cover the ECU and battery plus so you don't fry the ECU. And disconnect the fuel line from the tank (i still hate that part). No need to disconnect or even remove the cable loom as some have suggested. Just loosen the bottom bolts of the rear frame and take out the top ones so you can tilt the tank up. Fix the airbox while you have it out if you haven't done that yet.
Follow Carsten's instructions and you'll be alright. Since you're on a Strada you also have to deal with the metal piping from the ABS unit which runs over the valve cover. The piping is very ridgid and makes it pretty hard to get the cover off.
There is an issue of the engine mounting bolts coming loose and going missing. Loose bolts makes the bike sound like the big end is migrating to the head. Check the engine mounting bolts, specifically the hard to see top ones which bolt into the head, before doing anything else.
Even better.. They're only 2 mins down the road from me! I goofed on their address and assumed it was Croydon, Queensland. Now I have no need for a kit and will just pick up as required. I have had a bit of a chat and they have all of the appropriately sized 8.9mm shims in stock at the moment.
Thanks Big Dog. I did ex Thanks Big Dog I did exactly as you said and worked my tolerances to as close as I could get to bang-on the "widest tolerance" and I think that has made a big difference which is worthy of a new thread considering what has happened to my bike. I will start the thread shortly.
