All 2st various TMXX needles

I was wondering what needle options there are for us on the 09 and up 125. I went to servicehonda and looked up a bunch of needles for bikes that came with the same carb. Here is what I found...

6DGY21-69 02-03 CR125
6DGY26-69 04-05 CR125
6DGY26-66 04-05 CR125 Optional

6CHY17-65 01 RM125 standard
6BGY23-73 01 RM125 optional
6BGY24-73 01 RM125 optional
6BGY23-74 01 RM125 optional
6BGY24-74 01 RM125 optional
6CHY17-65 01 RM125 optional
6BGY24-75 01 RM125 optional
6BGY23-76 01 RM125 optional
6BGY24-76 01 RM125 optional
6BGY23-77 01 RM125 optional
6BGY27-77 02 RM125 standard
6BGY27-71 02 RM125 optional
6BGY27-73 02 RM125 optional
6BGY27-75 02 RM125 optional
6BGY27-77 02 RM125 optional
6BGY27-79 02 RM125 optional
6BGY28-71 02 RM125 optional
6BGY28-73 02 RM125 optional
6BGY28-75 02 RM125 optional
6BGY28-77 02 RM125 optional
6BGY27-77 03 RM125 standard
6BGY28-77 03 RM125 optional
6BGY28-79 03 RM125 optional
6BGY28-77 03 RM125 optional
6BGY28-75 03 RM125 optional
6BGY28-73 03 RM125 optional
6BGY28-71 03 RM125 optional
6BGY27-77 03 RM125 optional
6BGY27-75 03 RM125 optional
6BGY27-73 03 RM125 optional
6CHY16-62 04 RM125 standard
6CHY17-62 04 RM125 optional
6CHY17-64 04 RM125 optional
6CHY17-63 04 RM125 optional
6CHY17-62 04 RM125 optional
6CHY17-61 04 RM125 optional
6CHY17-60 04 RM125 optional
6CHY16-64 04 RM125 optional
6CHY16-63 04 RM125 optional
6CHY16-62 04 RM125 optional
6CHY16-61 04 RM125 optional
6CHY17-64 05 RM125 standard
6CHY17-64 05 RM125 optional
6CHY17-63 05 RM125 optional
6CHY17-62 05 RM125 optional
6CHY17-61 05 RM125 optional
6CHY17-60 05 RM125 optional
6CHY16-64 05 RM125 optional
6CHY16-63 05 RM125 optional
6CHY16-62 05 RM125 optional
6CHY16-61 05 RM125 optional

6CHJ10-82 04 KX125 standard
6CHJ10-81 04 KX125 optional
6CHJ10-83 04 KX125 optional
6CHJ10-84 04 KX125 optional
6CHJ11-80 04 KX125 optional
6CHJ11-81 04 KX125 optional
6CHJ11-83 04 KX125 optional
6CHJ11-84 04 KX125 optional

6BFY42-74 10 YZ125 standard
6BFY44-72 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY44-73 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY44-74 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY44-75 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY43-76 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY43-75 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY43-74 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY43-73 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY43-72 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY42-76 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY42-75 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY44-76 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY42-72 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY42-74 10 YZ125 optional
6BFY42-73 10 YZ125 optional

I found a thread to explain the codes here http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/needles-digits-and-numbers.7609/#post-82744

Has anyone tried anything other than the stock or 04 RM needle? I was thinking of experimenting because I am not sure the chy16-61 I am currently using is optimal. I have not tried the stock one but from what I have read the bikes that like the stock needle run aweful on the RM needle and my bike is fairly close. But it does seem a bit fat at half throttle so I think I might need a leaner taper. Anyway I need to study the link so I can figure out the codes but I thought I would post this to save anyone else the trouble of looking all these up.

edit. I am still trying to figure out the codes. Here are a couple links I am looking at...
http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/Mikuni_Jet_Needle_Dimension_Ch_W121C37.cfm#Series 6
http://www.sudco.com/vol33/56-59.pdf

We are discussing this right now in jetting chat. This post would be great info to have in there.

I do know that the KX125 has an approx. .002 larger needle jet. I am trying that in my 11 wr300 now.

Nice post by the way! You could opt to try the Honda DGY needle in the 66 or 69 thickness. D taper will hit just little harder at start. G taper will slow in the middle and you could have a little hit though on the end, Y taper. You might have to drop to your 4 slide. here are couple things also to try:

1 Drop your existing needle then adjust your pilot or vice versus. Sometimes a blip in the middle can be a lean, rich or powervalve timing issue.

2 Are you sure you are not rich on your main? If your running a 470, try a 460. The pilot and main overlap so make sure you have the correct air fuel mix in the middle. Could even try 1/2 clip washer.

3 Is your powervalve timed correctly? If you have the CR ignition, you want it to open little faster. Make sure that your shaft splines that run against governor aren't worn excessively?

4 Do you have a different pipe/silencer to try that you can borrow?


If you or anyone gets out my way, you are welcome to ride mine. I have a lot of time and money invested in mine but you would really like the engine. It's like a 144 on super steroids.
Just some thoughts!

I did some jetting since I made this post and things are pretty good now but I am still wondering if a different needle would be better.

Currently 27.5 pilot with air screw 2 turns out, #5 slide, CHY16-61 with clip at 2.5(using spacer), 460 main. This felt good at 40 degrees. The bike still makes a good amount of smoke and drools just a little but it runs well. But it still feels like it needs to be a little leaner on the very bottom. I have the RB mods in my carb which are supposed to require a couple sizes smaller pilot but still it seems I am having to go awful lean on it. I am wondering if I need a needle that is just a little richer on the very bottom. I am not sure this would help though since I tried the #4 slide and it was just a touch too rich from 1/8 to ¼. Additionally I think I could use a needle that is a little leaner right in the middle. It will now rev clean at half throttle but it took dropping the main and a half clip leaner needle position. I am still not sure how to interpret Mikuni needle codes so I am not sure what to try. I might just try the CR125 and KX125 needles and see what happens.

Details: 09 factory 150, Walts custom power valves, .3mm shaved off of head, CR ignition, Stock carb with RB divider and low speed mods, ethanol free pump premium with Lucas oil mixed 32:1, Fatty pipe with FMF TCII.

Kx needles lean, slow top end. Yz, no go. Try the Honda DGY?

Every letter = .25 taper A=.25 B= .50 C= .75. D= 1
Etc.........

CHY is .75/2.00/6.25

DGY is 1.00/1.75/6.25 you'll have little step at Y taper. Might be good fit?

Needle straight thickness: 60 rich to higher the number leaner (74).

I run on my ported 144 a DIY (Do It Yourself) custom needle, more agressive tapers and tapers moved forward for faster throttle responses.

On my ported 250, I run a DIY custom needle, faster longer taper on bottom and aggresive mid top tapers.

I guess I do not understand jetting at all. I thought that at idle the needle should make no difference but apparently it does.

Last ride I finished a bit early so I thought I would try the stock needle just to see what would happen. I had a PWK on the bike new and when I switched to the TMXX I always used the RM needle. From what I read the stock one sucked. I did see a few post from people who liked the stock needle but they usually said their bikes would hardly run with the RM needle. Since my bike was running fairly well with the RM needle I assumed I did not have one of the rare bikes that likes the stock one.

Anyway, first think I noticed is that my idle was real high. I had the screw most of the way in for the RM needle. I had to back it waaaaay out to get a good idle with the stock one. I thought people usually run much larger pilots with the stock needle but with my 27.5 going from one and a half turns out to one turn out would slow the idle down every times so I guess I am still in the ballpark. I do not understand why the needle makes a difference on idle?

I used the stock needle in the third clip. I also swapped the #5 slide for a #4 because I was worried about being too lean down low. My bike runs better than ever. Throttle response is real quick and the pull from the mid and top is crazy. I really need to make sure I am up on the front of the bike when I crack it open as the front gets real light. It will also pull onto the pipe with very little effort. I have no need for more displacement where I ride as it is kind of getting to be a handful as is.

I think it might be a little off on the very first quarter of the throttle but I am not sure. Whether it needs more or less fuel I am not sure, I can never tell, I can just tell when it is right so I will have to go both ways and see. If I hold the bike open at like one third throttle there is no sputter which I would get with the #4 slide and the RM needle. I did not have time left to play with it more but it is very good just as is. After the ride I started to think that maybe I will need a bigger main to go with the fat needle. It felt great on top on my short test but I was focused on the lower regions of the throttle as they are always the trickiest on these small Huskys.

I am thinking I should experiment some more with the stock needle but also maybe something just a bit richer on bottom? Maybe the Honda one?

there is a GAY needle that comes with all ktms, does not improves performance but is fantastic at organising your wardrobe..

One thing at a time padawan!!! The graphic below explains what Lankydoug is talking about


By changing the slide (Throttle Valve) you are already affecting the idle so your test should be:
1. Run Slide #5 with Stock at middle clip and record
2. Run Slide #5 with RM at middle slip and record
3. Run Slide #5 with TMXX at middle and record.
4. Run the same tests with Slide 4 but don't adjust clip height yet.
Be vigilent on what you are testing for in terms of throttle response (thats where the tape marking throttle position helps) and by painfully testing each needle at the same clip height at a time, then you will get a guage by how well each needle responses.
If you are leaning out the pilot jet over 2.5 turns out then you have too small of a pilot jet.
Also, beware of the throttle cable adjuster loosening up and affecting your idle (they tend to loosen and screw out causing the idle rise up).

No-one sucks at jetting, just takes time and patiences....plenty of patiences