Vintage Restoration Tips and Techniques

Great idea T! Especially for those of us that are new and don't know a lot of the specifics or details of these bikes. I am just starting my first restoration so will probably learn more than contribute right now. I will add one basic tip though - for those looking for a budget paint option for their frame may want to try "bumper coat" type paint. It's made for car bumpers and is flexible and very durable. It's not an exact color match but is close and will hold up better than other spray can style paints. You may want to clear coat it when done as it's flatter than factory finish. A light colored primer may help lighten the top coat to get closer to the factory color.

Should we continue to paste to this thread or post each tip as a new thread??

Thanks,

Mark

In addition to any ideas to be posted here I would love to see active links to other pages on the internet that describe restoration techniques for vintage dirt bikes.

Vintage bike restoration site

Most of you I'm sure are familiar with the huskyclub.com website which has/had a lot of great husky references and parts for sale. There has been some discussion on this site about the status of huskyclub (does anyone know?). I tried to order some parts from him last summer and never got a response (even after following his "how to email people about huskys tips".

In any event, the owner of that site also restores vincent motorcycles and has a site called http://www.thevincent.com/ that offers great restoration tips geared towards those bikes that would also apply to a husky or any other bike for that matter.

Mark

Crag(the husky club) is starting to phase out of the world of Husqvarna.He was at both York swap meets selling off his stock.It wasen't a fire sale,but he's letting alot of stuff go.You would probably have better luck contacting him at ebay.I don't know his sellers name.Do a search on Husky BMX bicycle.He just had one for sale.

Craig (huskyclub) still does Ohlins work. I have been email him about it.

We have to get one going on brakes, like what to buy and not to buy. What modifications need to be made to make things fit. I had husky brakes in the back and leleu's (spelling?) in the front and it was a hassle getting everything to work. I got mine together but it wasnt pretty

I can write out what I had to do, but Id rather see what other people did first.

Huskydoggg,
On the rear brake plate, there is a bushing that a bolt goes through to hold the brake stay arm. Mine was originally rubber but melted out for the powder coating. When i put the brake stay in place there is alot of movement (2-3mm) between the brake stay and the plate. should the bushing make contact with both sides of the brake plate?

I can get a picture if you don't understand what I'm saying.
Thanks.

Huskydoggg- that my friend is,as the disaffected yutes say, "da bomb"! Surely you have a doctorate in Husky-osity? My 2 cents worth (I guess between fearless leader & the economy I should be saying 2 millions worth?):
- If you're building race wheels (Excels & Buchanan ss spokes) save some $ up to send the wheels to Woody in FL at Woody's GP. He machines/replaces the liner (you'd be SHOCKED how much is worn which impacts the amount of brake cable free play) & trues the wheels. I can now finally say that my bike stops as good or better than a Honda or Yamaha. Downside is, he's not cheap but worth every penny.
- DLS requires an entirely different set up for max contact and almost everybody's is set up wrong. I had George show me once years ago & then I forgot it but recently had a Team Husky mechanic from back in the day show me and LORDY! the shoes bite hard. The trick is with the adjuster arm, you have to get both shoes to expand at the same rate (usually one engages before the other). After you've eye-balled the set-up off the bike, remount the wheel and with the bike on the stand slowly spin the wheel until you think it's about perfect. What you're looking for when you apply brake pressure is for the wheel to stop then slowly spin backwards.
- I use the metal-wrapped cable from HusqvarnaParts for my front brake and love it!
- I'm way anal about levers and with small hands (compensate elsewhere) the Magura's were tough so I use modern lever assemblies. You'll have to make spacers to take up the slack plus re-adjust the clutch throw but it's worth it IMHO. Currently running ASVs for both.