local welder concerned with magnesium ratio? he reckons too much and when he welds it it will blow? anyone welded a casing succesfully? it a 2004 te 450. cracked near the kickstsrt shaft
thought that was alum in that area no? ive had good success at my shop welding cases for cracks and leaks and holes. but most of the time a follow up is needed with some JB weld to seal it 100%, then it's permanent. the engine case castings are super-porous-fluffy so they get contaminted with oil you just cant get all of it out. so the weld pin holes sometimes. if its non-structural remove the cover, drill a stop hole to stop the crack propagation, sand a teeny "V" if ya can, super duper clean it, fill with epoxy or JB weld. done.
the head on my wr is ally the welder used magnesium rod to weld with this is alot thicker than the side casing but worked very well, my shout is see another welder is hes not that confident or.. its already juncked youve not got much to loose. personally i would say yes its good but PVDUKE's right these suckers are porous. good luck
You can tell if it has a high magnesium level by taking a grinder to it. Apply firm force and if it sparks the mag level is high. To get a succesful weld on the case it's about the prep work. Clean and degrease as best as you can using acetone then bake it at over 400 degrees, wire bruse it clean, more acetone and wire brushing (always use a stainless steel wire brush) pre-heat part to about 375 degrees before welding and you should be able to produce a decent weld.
Like I said, keep your eyes peeled on ebay. Here is your part, right here. No welding required. The 250 and 450 have the same outer case (husky calls it an outer cover). The actual clutch cover (5 bolt circular cover) is different though, so you would need to use your 450 version. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inner-and-O...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccdec09d6&vxp=mtr
If you plan to keep bike for long time, maybe you could contact husqvarna factory and have some carved up out of billet aluminum like they did on left kicker ones. Might cost more but seems like market for them. I know guy that has welded magnesium for 30 years. He wouldn't touch it unless made a jig for cause can warp. Then heat treat, etc.... Then rod is expensive. I ended up finding good used one or get one carved up new/ thicker in areas thats needs to be for breakage.
fyi guys. eventually got it welded. first attempt was terrible and the welds were lifting. second attempt on the inside was much better but the outside still not 100% so plastered it in chemical metal. quick test run and no leaks. onky time will tell if this fix is perminent.. thanks for the help.
just out of curiosity, but why didn't you just buy that one on ebay i linked you to above for $90? Having to deal with that headache and the potential for leaks in the future doesnt seem worth any money you might have saved. At least now you know to never touch that kicker.
because by the time i had paid shipping to the uk and inport fees it would have cost near the same as a new replacement from husky. im on a budget with being laid off. the bike is a luxury item so need to try and save where i can. this repair was free :-)
Hey guys.. I hope I'm not hijacking this thread..but I have a welding issue too.. I'm new here..I got a nice deal on an 08 SM510r.. Problem I have is previous owner waded up the chain and it broke off the lower c.s.chain guard mount flush at the case..I can get by but would you think a piece can be welded to the spot so I can then put a case saver or something on.?? Or..anyone have a good used left engine case cheap.?? My dealer told me Husqvarna only sells both cases together and it is $1300. U.S. OUCH.!!
I got mine machined flat and had an m6 hole tapped into the case then a m6 tube washer was supposed to make itsway on the stud buuut ive still got to turn up the stud. Cheaper than buying new case and leak proof too.
Cool..how thick is the case.?? Did you tap the m6 all the way through?? I'm wondering how many guys have had this happen?? I'm sure I can do it myself..I'm new to working on this bike..I do have several things to go through..Thanks for the reply!!!
Yup right through, blue loc-tigheted the stud in. I had cases apart during con rod replacment so no biggie. Still not mounted it and tbh ive never ran a sprocket cover. As for case savers if your chain breaks or like me your cs bolt sheared then its going to claim the studs straight out no matter what. Oh the case where it was machined was about half inch thick plenty there to support the stud.
I had almost the same thing happen to my TE610 last year- instead of the lower mount, it was the upper mount. I've been able to JB Weld the mount back on and basically only torque the lower bolt to the case while gently screwing the upper bolt on flush and not torqued down. Blue Locktite used on both mounts, but I'd really rather have the mount welded back on just in case the chain ever snaps again.
I welded the magnesium cases and clutch covers in a cardboard box. I turned up the argon gas on the TIG. I used magnesium rod. Everything I welded came out ok. You need to have a complete argon atmosphere in the box. Otherwise the metal burns. The droplets on the floor burns too. Be careful. My welder vendor gave me free samples of TIG magnesium filler rod.
Free samples? Heck that stuffs expendo my friend did his case ended up as a molten mess on the table pmsl was soo funny seeing his face.
