250-500cc What are the "must haves" for a WR300?

Just put a deposit on a new '13 WR300. I want to order some goodies and would like to hear from some owners what the best setup is for the following items

Skid plate - thinking Flatland, loved it on my CRF
Hand guards - hard to beat standard Moose or EE but open to suggestions
Pipe guard-should I bother or wait until I need an aftermarket pipe?
Chain guide- assuming the stock aluminum will get beat up good in the rocks
Tall seat- I didn't like the last SDG I bought so was thinking Guts?
Steering damper- does it need one? I ride mostly tight, rocky, nasty trails.
EZ pull clutch lever- I run a MSR ProRaptor on my 165 and its insanely light so now I'm spoiled
Might try a Rekluse EXP at some point, but I guess I can borrow the MSR for now
Is Jetting decent on the '13s or should I order a Lectron now? Lol
Once again, spoiled by my 165
Any other setup tips or "must have" items?
Thanks

Don't forget radiator guards...

what ever you do man.. go though good break in and dont do what I did last week..
warm it up properly!!

Oh yeah, def radiator guards. I have the MSR/Moose on my 165. I don't see anything better available so I'll stick with that.
Was thinking of trying Magura clutch as well. Guess that can wait a few rides

KS9mm, I read your post about engine seize, sorry to hear that. Not positive but I think I di a race or two with you this year. Did you do Delaware and RoRR enduros with Mike?

Yes the 7602 racing product is great and comes in red! The radiators are very brittle.

Also must install Honda CR250 92-01 Reed valve gaskets. You actually only need one but it's a must have. Another is JD Jet kit if you want to keep TMX - runs great.

I have the Enduro Engineering skid plate. Great protection but difficult to install so there it stays. Buy a FMF Turbine Core 2 for a 00-06 WR250 if you want to be able to re-pack your silencer. Don't booger up your hose clamp on the reed valve intake clamp - easy to wear a hole there. I have G2 Ergonomics hand guards with threaded bar inserts. Works nice and also avail in red! I got the RMATV Tusk pipe guard. No pipe dents in 7 months now! The 2014 OEM chain guide is similar to a TM DesignWorks model tho it may be cheaper?

As for clutch - OEM lever/cable work fine so far for me. For trials type trails that I ride the 12T front and 48T rear works good. Chain is doing fine wear wise.

Wasn't me. I might do it next year though.

"Mike" is sort of vague, but that might have been me. I was on the same row as a guy named Mike on a KTM 300 at RORR.

I think some people believe that you need to bolt $2000 worth of shiny stuff onto a new bike, but I don't believe in that. I'd recommend this short list:

-Fix the jetting (new needle or JD kit) or PWK or Lectron
-Suspension revalve (especially for rocky trails)
-Skidplate (I have the Hyde, works nice, fits like crap)
-Rad guards (I have 7602)
-Handguards (Moose/EE)

Brake rotor guards and chain guide/guard can be nice, but I have 2 seasons of racing on my bike without these and it has been fine.

I thought the stock clutch sucked, the terminator cable helped a bit but I don't think it's much better. Extending the clutch arm helps a lot, I went to a magura hydro in the end.

my front and rotor disk guards are completely scratched up and I do not remember ever hitting something with them...I think they are worthy investment.

a tow rope. had to drag some orange 450 about 6 miles out of the crud today

Tow rope! Lol
Thanks for the heads up on the reed gasket! It's now on my list

I see you prefer tight rocky trails, which sounds like Rekluse territory. If you're tempted to try one, but like to use your clutch to meter power then stay away from the EXP and get the Z-Start Pro. Their website may not list it as available, but they started making them again for the wr 250/300 recently. The EXP creates an exceptionally heavy lever pull due to the heavier springs it comes with that are necessary to make up for the reduction in friction surface when a few oem plates are replaced w/the EXP disc. The Z-Start is a little complicated, but once sorted it is a one-finger pull affair and works just like a stock clutch. And it's hard to deny after getting used to it that it doesn't make you a better rider in the tough and tight/slow stuff. I was very dubious about them until I tried it. I bought a Z-Start Pro mainly for the anti-stall feature since starting a stalled wr 250/300 is no fun when in difficult situations (I ride mostly rocky and rooty single track too), but have realized that it really does allow you to concentrate a little more on the technical stuff because you don't have to worry about covering the clutch when the rpms drop suddenly or the rear brake is tapped accidently. I've also discovered that I can come into corners on single track lot hotter with the Rekluse than w/the stock clutch. And when you're 50 miles into an enduro and exhausted you're loving that you can be a little lazy w/the clutch and chug-a-lug up the hills w/out stalling. Just my $0.02 after switching over to one after putting 1,500 miles on my '11 wr300 w/the stock clutch.

For other stuff, look into Cycra probend handguards, Hyde Racing skid plates, BRP chain guide, and EE radiator guards. Also consider using the thickest tubes you can get w/a 6ply tire (like a Kenda Parker) for the rocky stuff. The tubliss system are sweet, but pricey. Also, get the carb jetted correctly, which should actually be the first thing you do, followed by getting the suspension setup correctly for your weight and riding style and conditions.

Have fun with it!

Skillz and big kahunas !

Brian, thanks for the heads up on Rekluse making Zstart pro again. That's the one I would get if I decide to go that route. Tough decision because of the price. I def agree with you that it's great when you are exhausted and have another 50 miles of enduro left. I will prob get a steering damper first before I decide on Rekluse

For now I am pretty happy with the clutch feel. I adjusted the screw on the pressure plate to help with drag and installed a Pro Raptor easy pull lever. Huge improvement! My terminator cable just arrived and I really hope it's as good as I've read it is.
I ended up going with 7602 rad guards - really nice product!
Flatland skid plate- also great
JD jet kit- didn't even try stock jetting but this feels great in the woods. I will be trying the Lectron from my 165 for comparison soon. We had to cut the ride short on Sundsy due to my rear shock leaking and had to take street for 5 miles. I really noticed how much better the Lectron is at steady throttle. Almost 4-stroke like. Can't wait to try it on the 300
EE hand guards.
Headlight/taillight. Still need to wire them
Noticed a tiny drip from hose on bottom of left rad. But the bullet and ordered silicon hose set. Should be here in a day or two
Carbon pipe guard on its way too
Ordered tall seat foam and Motoseat ribbed cover

So far, after a few hours of setup and tuning I am really impressed with the bike. The motor might just be the best I've ever ridden. Nice and smooth, torquey, controllable power , and lots of it! I mounted an IRC trials tire on the rear and it will climb any hill without hesitation. I've amazed others on climbs with my 165 but line choice is important. On the 300 you can start/stop wherever and it has the power to crawl its way up.
Suspension feels ok, gonna break it in we'll before I bring it for a revalve.
Really bummed that my rear shock leaked and the bike is sitting at the dealer now. Hope the replacement arrives quick! Was looking forward to taking this bike to Hancock NY in 2 weeks for the 200 mile "Quarry run" dual sport.