The oil in the 2 stroke lubes the bottom end bearings and piston. I don't skimp on that. Amsoil 40-1 for me. Really all modern oil seems good.
Also consider that its likely at least partially emmisions related, as most of our woods 2strokes exist as street legal versions in Europe. I know GasGas bikes come with the lower PV vent line zip tied closed as they are not allowed to drip oil on the ground. Obviously thats not intended to stay that way so why beleive the 50:1 or 60:1 sticker? The newer bikes also come with sealed main bearings(bad idea IMO) to get away with this and even leaner ratios in the future. I beleive it was Maxima who did a study using oil tagged with a radioisotope and found that the optimum ratio for a 250 is 36:1, based on migration through the engine. Have run Amsoil Dominator at that ratio in my bikes for years with excellent results. I do not beleive any Japaneese 2stroke MX bikes had ratios higher than 40:1 specified, the Honda CR250 was 32:1.
I just picked up a 2009 WR 250. It's my first ever 2T and I've got no knowledge base. The PO said he ran Redline @ 50:1 in all his bikes. The bike spooges quite a bit from the interface collar at the silencer. And he said he put in the Husky Factory Jet Kit that "makes it run correctly". Should I tinker with the jetting? And my real question is what should I be doing about the 91 octane E85 garbage gas that is pretty much all I can get here? Should I run additives on a 2T like StarTron and Torco octane booster?
Stabil Marine formula is the cheapest insurance to E85. Torco accelerator turns pump gas into race gas, great stuff, but an unnecessary expense unless you are racing/abusing.
Thats something to consider, especially on my antique which was never designed to be be stuck with govt subsidized corn squeezins in the gas. Stopping by WallyWorld for a bottle of blue StaBil on the way home. I guess the regular red one doesn't have the same ethanol killing ability? I also found that Golden Spectro is listed at my local Cycle Gear (guess they were out of stock) and one other place in town that has become my new favorite place for tire mounting (FactoryMX). Just a small snivel, but damn, the price on a bottle of premix has about doubled in these last ten years.
Ty asked me that question before pouring water into two clear containers. In one I added red Stabil and Blue in the other. The red was separated like oil and water. The blue was homogenized.
Be careful with Redline oil. Its a very high quality ester base race oil but ester is very hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). This causes some components of the premix to separate, and happens in the fuel can and in the float bowl when the bike is stored. This also tarnishes carb brass quite bad, especially the main and pilot as they sit low in the carb drain. I ran Redline years ago but switched to Amsoil after experiencing this. Redline is good stuff but not what you want to keep around long or in the bike especially in humid environments. I treat all my gas with Startron and its been good, no issues. I used to mix race gas 50/50 to cut the overall ethanol but it got expensive and I did not need the octane rating. As far as E85 I think you mean E10 or E15. We'd be in a real jam if stuck with 85% ethanol in a 2stroke.
I did not like my results with redline or silkolene. Amsoil or Spectro SX both seemed to work well for me personally. HP2 and yamalube have also been good when I used them.
"....also been good when I sued them" Motosportz switched letter, Freudian slip...how was the lawsuit payoff? (hahahaa)
Thanks for the oil advice. I'm just learning about the whole 2T thing so this is a big help. Yes, I hear it both ways, but I am talking about 15% Ethanol. I had considered running a race gas blend, but when you look at those sites that show you where you can buy it, there is only one in California. I know of a couple more where I can buy either race or non-ethanol gas, but it's not worth the $20 in gas for my truck to make the trip out there. I keep Torco Accelerator on-hand since my TE 511 runs like crap on normal 91 pump gas. I only add enough to bump the octane by 2 points, so it lasts a long time. I'll experiment in the 2T. It already starts pretty easy, not real easy, but not bad. It idles a little rough, though. I think I'll be ordering a couple Iridiums. That might be all I need.
I think he uses interceptor. I use dominator at 32-1. I just did the ring on my CR150 at 53 hours. It was still under the service limit, and I run Vet A against mostly 450's.
I've used and like both. The interceptor is honey colored which I don't like as it is hard to tell you have oil in your gas. I typically use Interceptor because my local autoparts store carries it.
Can we use the same 2t oil in the cast iron sleeved cylinders and the nickasil cylinders? I ask this because years ago I was using maxima super M in the cast iron cylinders. I'm not sure if 40:1 super M was ok. In my new 98 husqvarna 250wr when it sucked in the base gasket(New) the dealer mechanic asked me what brand of 2t oil was I using. The engine inside was coated in oil. Should we use a castor oil blend of 2t in the iron cylinder bikes?
