• Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Sweden - About 1988 and older

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

whats the difference cr , wr, or

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huskyrob450

huskyrob450

Husqvarna
AA Class
I'm thinking of getting into a vintage husky but know almost nothing about the models. Is there a thread that explains the intended use of each model? Mostly looking for a big bore 2st 78 - 82 Thanks for any help
 
where and how are you planing on riding this bike? CRs are for MX WRs = enduro and ORs are for fast desert stuff
 
As troy said, CRs are pure MX bikes with 12" long travel and close ratio transmissions, WRs are pure enduro with shorter travel (about 10.6") and wide ratio transmissions, XC/ORs are basically a mix of the two, similar to the CR long travel chassis with a wide ratio or semi-wide ratio transmission. In reality, if you are looking for a vintage race bike, any model can be easily modified to work very well.
 
Thanks for the quick replies. Not looking to ride track. Mostly So Cal riding areas = some desert, some woods single track. Just spoke with a fellow selling a 79 390 OR He said the OR meant optimal ratio low low gears for rock climbing ? Saw some pictures of models with head and tail lights, were any of these ever plated?
 
The OR was for desert racing basically, it had a semi-wide ratio transmission, not as wide as the WR but much more versatile than the CR. Whether they were plated or not depends on the state it was originally sold in, some were titled and tagged when new, some were not.
 
In California you will have a difficult time getting any off road bike plated in CA. Usually you have to go to a friendly neighbor state (Nevada in your case)to get titled and registered first.
 
jimspac said:
In California you will have a difficult time getting any off road bike plated in CA. Usually you have to go to a friendly neighbor state (Nevada in your case)to get titled and registered first.
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USED TO BE ABLE to do that. Laws changed in 2006. Can't bring in street plated dirt bikes and get them plated in the state of Kommiefornia, anymore.
 
I'd like to see them win that in court. They can NOT deny the transfer of a legitimate title from another state.
 
I like the "OR" tranny.
The first three gears are WR(wide ratio) 1st thru 3rd. The last three gears are CR (close ratio) 4th thru 6th. The rpms stay up in the meat of the power band in the 4th thru 6th.
As we're we need to wind up the wr gears before we shift. If we don't wind up the wr gears rpms high enough it can bog. The OR tranny in the '78 250 is a nice bike. The 390 OR would be a good choice too. They only offered the OR tranny in the late 70's. I'm not sure if the OR tranny was offered in '80/'81?

The first wr gears are geared low.
 
I'm thinking of registering my 84 250wr for the street. Then I could ride to the legal riding area 10 minutes away.
 
Dirtdame said:
Of course you can title it....and register it as an OHV. But NOT as a street legal vehicle.
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One more of many reasons not to live there. That is similar to when I lived there and owned a '66 Mercury Cyclone GT. The car came with no smog pump and an open air cleaner. On the third tag renewal they told me that I had to bring the car in for inspection, and upon inspection they told me I had to add back the smog pump (which it never had) and put a closed air cleaner on it (which it never had). I decided I was going to fight them, and sent a letter to Ford (this was 1988, no email) asking for the original equipment specs for my car. At first California tried to tell me that they didnt care what FORD said the car came with, they knew better, and I had to conform. I eventually won because I didnt quit. I'll tell you this too, if I wanted to transfer a title from another state to California, they would take it whether they liked it or not.
 
Kartwheel68 said:
I'll tell you this too, if I wanted to transfer a title from another state to California, they would take it whether they liked it or not.
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And it would be registered as OHV. You will never win an argument with a computer. I have two dirt bikes registered (before the 2006 law change)as street bikes here, and have seen everybody fail, trying to do a straight up street registration on out of state plated dirt bikes.
 
Bigbill said:
I'm thinking of registering my 84 250wr for the street. Then I could ride to the legal riding area 10 minutes away.
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I could be a bit out of date, If you buy a Ct registered and titled vehicle before it is 10 years old then you just need to pay sales tax and title fee and registration and prove insurance. A 1984 model whether it deserved a plate or not would have to be registered by 1993 otherwise figure on taking it down to Wethersfied on a trailer and getting an inspection which may not be as bad as it could be. The good thing is I can re activate my old registrations no questions asked and there is no annual inspection sticker, yet. A lot of Vermont plates seem to be at enduro and turkey run. I know you will need a blue high beam indicator if that helps.

As to the original post, a wr would have originally come with a speedometer drive (and the piece that drives it) and chain guard. Probably by now one would use an electronic odometer/speedometer.
 
Ct wouldn't accept a bill of sale on a dirtbike registration before. I went to another state and registered it. I have Speedos and drives. Just need to wire it. But I'm thinking of a better more modern ignition I can depend on over the SEM?
 
Power Dynamo(MZB) Bill but you will get 100 watts. With the SEM if the stator and flywheel are still viable, the best to do with it is the pit bike CDI and coil setups I am setting up now. The SEM yields 140 watts. 70 watts per yellow wire. Think about it. Less than $70 in parts versus $500 for a PowerDynamo.
 
jimspac said:
Power Dynamo(MZB) Bill but you will get 100 watts. With the SEM if the stator and flywheel are still viable, the best to do with it is the pit bike CDI and coil setups I am setting up now. The SEM yields 140 watts. 70 watts per yellow wire. Think about it. Less than $70 in parts versus $500 for a PowerDynamo.
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still have a 25 year old stator but yes a very viable option, especially if you already have the stator. almost all sem of that age are showing age visually in the potting.. in addition the hpi/electrex also have much more output than the motoplat
 
I don't have much kicking strength I figure you guys said these new ignition have more voltage when turned slower. I'm adding the compression release. I really can't kick. I figure to pop it like my 390.

As soon as I hit 300lbs it's gym time. This month the arthritis is a killer.
 
Best to just give up the dream, no new modern ign with hotter spark is is going to make it easier to start.
With your issues best to get something with a magic button.
OR's were WR'S with more travel no hd lite, tail lite, had to put in 5/6 Cr gears to pull taller gearing.
Later George
 
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