Wanted to start a new thread in order to keep form hijacking the "kablamo" thread as a response to a post in that thread pertaining to parting-out a bike. As this may not be the option the originator of that thread chooses, I thought I would start a new one on how to part-out a ride as I feel it is useful info to know and I have some experience with this. If the engine is running sell it whole. If not, side cases go frist since everyone tears them up. Then carb, head (if still good), clutch assembly, wheels, exhaust, radiators (big ticket item also since everyone mashes one once in a while), body panels (also popular), seat (everyone rips one), trail computer. This could go on & on. Some big ticket items that are usually hard to get rid of on e-bay are the forks and swingarm. Not many people need new forks. However, if they're sold with the tree, it will sell much faster because there are some folks that have bikes that the forks and tree would fit and would like to move up to a bigger fork. Unless someone has bought a used race bike and the swingarm is cracked beyond repair, or they purchased a bike that was poorly maintained and extrememely worn bearings have damaged the swingarm, you can just about forget selling it. Just let buyers know a list of items you have that are not in an auction (in the description of all your auctions) and tell them to contact you if they'd like to see it up for auction. This is far easier than listing everything and will save lots of money. If you don't get more than a couple of inquiries about a particular item (the swingarm for example), then just e-mail them and tell them to make you an offer. Other than swingarm and forks, everything should go pretty quickly, even the bars. Another tip to selling is knowing what will make somthing work or not work on various other models. For instance, don't sell the 1 1/8" bars without the clamps. Also, sell the switches (lighting switches for example) with the entire lead and plug so the buyer can just plug it in. I've seen folks sell things like switches without the wire just becuase it's easier to get off the bike. A list of your fast-selling items is below: 1.) Wheels (sell them complete. do not remove rotors or sprockets If they're still good. If not, remove them and screw the mounting bolts back in to sell with the wheels. The wheels should be sold separately. Don't sell the chain and sprocket set separately, even if you just bought them. Chances are the only bike they will fit is the ones the wheels will fit. Selling them separate means someone who has that bike, or one very close to the same model has to buy them, this limits your potential customer base and is just going to cost you more in sales fees anyway. If the sprockets are still good, leave the rear mounted.) 2.) Chain (sell your chain only if you just bought it and feel like it's still going to be good for someone. Be sure to note the size and length so others will know if it fits thier bike. There are lots of bargain shoppers who turn to online auctions as soon as something breaks and before they even check with a retailer or dealer as they know they stand to save lots of money. If your chain is still good, you could get back half of your investment. You can sell the chain and sprocket set complete if you have a popular bike, but they should be in near new condition. If not, don't waste time.) 3.) Handlebars (sell them with the clamps). Some 18 year-old kid in NE ordering fat bars for his bike might not know that they won't fit his clamps. Make the price comensurate.) 4.) Controls (Sell them with the leads and plugs. If you have to dig into the bike to get to them, so be it. You're most likely going to be tearig it down anyway. People want it right. I've seen them for sale with the wires removed or even cut. No chance of selling this way.) 5.) Subframe (If you have a popular bike that has been around for a while chances are, this is going to be one of the first things to go-especially on smaller bikes. My experience has been that the first thing a kid does when he gets a new MX bike is wheelie it over and jack the sub-frame. Get it off the bike, clean it and touch it up. This item will go quickly-especially if it is aluminum.) 6.) Carb (It's way easier to buy one than fix a worn-out one. They are more likely to sell to people who don't like to clean air fiters, or didn't realize a performance bike need a good filter cleaning more than once a year.) 7.) Airbox (for some reason unknown to me, lots of folks must ride in areas where the squirrels on the trail hit their airboxes with roofing hammers when they go by. This is usually one of the first items to go and fetches more than you might think. There must be some kind of world shortage on them. Throw in the whole shebang, boot, box, filter cage too. If your filter is new, sell it with it, adjust price to reflect.) 8.) Body panels (sell them as a complete kit and use a "buy it now" option. If it's in good shape and the graphics are too, it's going to fetch about 60% of the price of new plastics without graphics. Sell the tank separate. 9.) Gas tank (Sell the tank separate. This is another hot seller. They will usually fetch a good price since a replacement costs so much. Also, they're hard to find for older bikes.) 10.) Engine (if your engine is still in running condition sell it whole, on a competition 4-stroke 250 or 450, you're going to make enough money to put a big down payment on a new bike. On a 2-stroke, you're still going to make a pretty penny, but don't expect to get much more than $1,200-$1,500 for a like-new running 250 or 500. It's cheaper to rebuild them unless it's something rare like a YZ460 or Suzuki 400 engine that no one has parts for anymore. Then, you're limited to collectors pretty much and they don't pay top dollar for crap. I did however, once sell a CR-250R Elsinore engine bottom to a collector for $180 frozen solid.) 11.) Cases (if your engine is not running and the outer cases are good, sell them individually. This item is in high demand. Lots of folks bust one or the other at some point in time.) 12.) Inner cases (Sell them separately from the outers. It's common for them to be damaged in a big "kablam" and the outers are not needed. Expect to fetch a pretty penny for these. I would sell them as a set, but spearate from the outers. Otherwise, you'll wind up just selling one of them for less money and one will become a wall ornament on your garage wall. Sell them together and up the price. If someone wants either of them, let him have the wall ornament to go along with the one he needs. He will pay a little more for the pair to get the one he wants, then try to sell the other, to no avail.) 13.) Cylinder & Head-(on a 4-stroke, most likely they're going to need one if they need the other. If yours are still good, sell them together. Sometimes the cylinder is not good, but can be saved. Say in the description that you are "throwing it in". Add to the price of the head to compensate yourself for the cylinder. On a 2-stroke, sell the head and cylinder separate or as a pair. I like to sell them separate because usually someone who has stripped the plug threads needs the head, and someone who has bored thier cylinder to the max needs the cylinder. I once sold a cylinder off of a 1986 KX-80 for $80.00. It was stock. It had been sitting out for years. It was still pretty clean on the inside though and it went within 2 days. The head fetched $25.00 from a different buyer.) 14.) Bottom end (if you don't wan to take all this engine stuff apart, just sell the top and bottom ends separately. If your engine is blown, chances are no one wants to pay shipping for the whole thing when they just need a cam shaft. Sell the complete top end as one unit, but sell the outer cases of the bottom separate from the bottom half. Trust me, they'll go. Sell the rest of the bottom as one unit, flywheel and all If it's good.) 15.) Flywheel/Electronics (If you ARE the wrenching type and know how to properly remove the flywheel do so and sell the electronics with it. If someone is adding alighting coil to a bike that does not have one, in some cases they will need the flywheel too and it will work just as well for them as their factory one. Sometimes it's just a matter of their flywheel's geometry not fitting over your stuff and not a wieght difference that keeps the whole rig from working. Sell the coil and flywheel togther, otherwise, you'll have to find another place on the wall beside the engine case.) 16.) Rear shock (I have had some luck in selling rear shocks since folks somehow seem to blow them out like they change underwear-every month or so. This item cannot be shipped air freight due to the pressured Nitro cannister. Rear shocks sell moderately well.) 17.) Front Forks (as mentioned, unless someone is looking to upgrade to a larger fork-in which case you need to include the tree, I have had little luck selling them at all. Usually when I throw away what's left, the forks are still on the bike. I've almost given up altogether.) 18.) Brakes (don't take them apart. Sell the complete front system and complete rear system so they just bolt-on. Make sure you clean them well and they are not leaking. If they are, drain all fluids before shipping. These will sell pretty well also. Don't try to get smart and sell the levers separately unless you got a new $90 matching set of after-market levers. It just costs more money. Unless you can use them on another bike you own, let them go as an assembly or you'll just waste money trying to auction them separately. The clutch perch and lever should be sold together and with the cable. Don't try to sell the clutch perch clamp in a separate auction, you're just wasting money. If you got a hydro-clutch, sell the compete unit just as you did the front brake, so it's just a matter of the buyer bolting it up.) 19.) Clutches (Sell the basket with the clutch pack. If you can't get it off, then don't worry about it. However, clutch baskets are a very hot item. This will sell fast. Don't even try to sell the clutch plates without the basket. Include the mounting harware, bearings and washers. Off of most popular bikes, this is probably going to net you between $100 & $150. If you got an auto clutch like a Recluse and it's still in good shape, yo would be crazy to no get it off of there. If you want to save it for your next bike and are certain it will fit, then I reccommend you do so. You know how much it cost you new. If you want to sell it, don't take less than $200 for it. 20.) Radiators (sell them separate. If your rads aren't bent at all, you're probably going to get about $125-$150 each for them. If they aren't perfect but still work, expect $80-$100 each. If it's an old bike and the hoses are good, sell them with it. Another auction for a $10 selling price just isn't worth the money.) 21.) Exhaust (sell it complete, otherwise you'll just wind up with the can hanging on the wall). On a modern 4-stroke, don't take less than $200 for the complete factory exhuast. 2-strokes, don't take less than $100. If you got after-market full exhuast, then you'll just have to set your price depending on what it costs new and its current condition. 22.) Lighting (If you have lighting on your bike, sell the complete set, or you'll be left with one or the other. Most folks don't mind paying a little more for the set even if the don't need the tail light becuase this means they will now have a spare just in case, that costs waaay less than one from a dealer would. Make sure the wires and plug all go with the lighting. Don't cut them.) 23.) Ignition module (This is a very popluar item that is often very pricy from a dealer. This one always sells.) 24.) Seat (usually one of the first items to go. Get pretty good dough out of this sell. Usually, you can get about 75% of the price of a new one if yours is in good shape. Don't take less than 65% of the price of a new one.) 25.) Kickstarter (you almost have to sell the kickstarter with the starter gear and shaft. Sell it complete. This one will surprise you. Most folks who need the kick, need the guts too.) 26.) Pegs (Yes, if they're straight, sell them with the springs and mounting hardware. They're easy to get off and will net you $25-$30.00.) 27.) Skidplates/after-market goodies (Sell most all of this stuff separate. It usually is not a problem to get rid of.) Stuff to stay away from: This is a list of stuff I typically do not put up for auction because it just typically doesn't sell and I wind up wasting money. I do, however, list it in the description of all the other auctions for parts of the same bike so folks will know it is available, usually by adding a note like "other parts available for this bike, etc, etc, . Email me if you'd like to see them up for auction." 1.) Swingarm (You can almost forget about it. I add a note to other auctions that this is available, but usually, they don't sell unless someone has a really bad mishap with theirs or it's an antique bike collector looking for one in perfect shape before he commits time and money to fixing the one he has. Otherwise, they almost never sell.) 2.) 7/8" factory bars (Don't waste your money on an auction. If they are aftermarket, you might have a chance.) 3.) Chassis (very rarely does this sell and usually there is someother crap attached to it that didn't sell either so I don't even mess with it. Most of the bikes I've parted out are in the situation because the bottom end of the engine is locked-up, so that's usually still in there. It's just more work to get it off and get the swingarm off to ship it. List it in the description of another item as available, don't even bother with a separate auction unless you get a solid inquiry.) 4.) Forks (most of the time, I wind up using them and the swingarm like wheelbarrow handles for me and the guy at the dumpster to throw the frame into the metal recycle bin. It's easier that way.) That's about it. See this as a sort-of "beginner's guide to parting-out and auctioning bikes. You'll have to feel your way through pricing and demand as well as the whole experience in general. There are, of course, exceptions to every rule, but these are the general rules of thumb I go by. I have developed them through experience-some in which I made money with good auctions, some in which I've lost money autioning parts that just would not sell and getting burned up with e-bay's rediculous fees. Hope this helps. Hope you don't fall asleep before you finish reading it.
Wow. Awesome post. I also would recommend starting out posting your parts on a forum so you can avoid as many fees as possible. Only sell your remaining parts on eBay. eBay fees + Paypal fees = lower profit margin!
great info thats some great information, i am going to do some investigation on what each of the individual parts are worth to see how it stacks up. but at a glance it seems like the parts sold separately should make a 50% premium on the entire bike. thanks for taking the time to post that. ..wheres the reputation option here
If your bike was a TC or TXC with the TC 50's I think the forks would sell just fine. I know I would like a set. But I agree that the other ones are hard to move.
