Where to buy valve shims?

Hello. I have a Te 630 that is due for a valve check/adjust at 4000 miles. Where can I buy valve shims for this bike? Are they a standard size comon to other bikes? Thanks in advance. Scott

Thanks, Dirtdame

Been using a set of 9.48mm Hot Cams For my 630. Not much work to change if needed.

If you have a friendly bike shop nearby they’ll sometimes take yours on trade-in (i.e. give you the ones you need and take yours.)

I also bought the Hotcams set, though- just easier to have them on-hand. Just did mine a couple of days ago- I’m at close to 25K on the 630 now.

Thanks. The local friendly bike shop closed recently, but I'll check with the SWM dealer. Thanks for the Hotcams lead. I've thought it'd be convienent to have a set than to order individually.

EricV, have you changed the cush spring cups? If so when, and where did yo get them?

And the shim kit less convenient than I thought. Expensive, especially considering it contains shims I already know I can't use. And I can possibly reuse two of the ones in the bike on the other valves.

9.48 shims are also used on a variety of Japanese bikes such as Suzuki DRZ 400, Honda CRFs, Yamaha WR and YZ to name a few. Should be readily available at any of these shops.

I bought the kit 20 years ago for my DRZ400 and didn't use any for that bike and I think I used two on my TE. Back then kit was a lot smaller selection of shims in small ziploc bags.

Sorry for the delay. On the clutch washers: Whew- that was wayyy back now. I think I was at around 7K on the bike when I did that. Back then- some years ago now- there was a member that went by Indy (something like that) who made them. I do recall with certainty, though, that he stopped. Sorry I’m not much help.

With some searching I’m sure you can find the precise measurements for the more robust ones, and then have a local machinist do a set for you. That’s what I’d do.

Though you’ve heard it before, I’m sure, the only thing I’d highly caution any 630 owner on is the right side oil screen. I’m sure you’ve seen that thread. Not exactly a widespread issue (that screen coming apart and damaging things) but also very much not uncommon. I think I was the 1st (perhaps the only?) to have had the misfortune of having the end cap of that booger come off and just by (bad) luck it wound up under the con rod on its way down and got hammered through the bottom of the casings. Had to get new casings and transfer all over. That was at 9K. I’m doing a refresh on the old beast this winter, so in the next few weeks gonna pull that out and leave it out, this time.

Lastly (as I’m sure you’re also aware of but doesn’t hurt to reinforce) watch the countershaft splines. I haven’t lubed mine as much as I should have and I’ve lost…oh…I’d estimate 20-25% area on each of those. But- then again- with the mileage I’ve got I guess I didn’t do too bad either (as I’ve done a lot of road miles too and never go easy on the bike. Not abused/thrashed, but always ridden spiritedly.

Yeah- I hated splurging on the Hotcams set myself, especially as you’ll only need a narrow range of them (generally the 2.0’s to 2.5’s.) I did it though, for expedience/convenience. As Willie mentioned the 9.48’s are common, so any shop is likely to be able to help you.

Edit: Just did a quickie Google search (“9.48 shims”) and it looks like you can get little baggies for under ten bucks. Chaparral was one vendor I saw.

Delay no problem. These are tasks for the winter. Thanks for the information. I hadn't heard about the oil screen issue. If I read you right, you're just going to omit it next time around? I haven't read about the countershaft splines either. I got my bike in 2020 with only 600 miles on it. Has only 4000 miles now, so most of what I read didn't include wear issues. I'll check when I change the oil. I was considering a cush drive rear hub to smooth out the bike onthe road and take the pounding off the drive train. My bike is very smooth at only speed, aruond 60; and a paint shaker at all other speeds. I have a SWM hub and it appears it will work, but I haven't checked it out fully. The rear disc mounts line up but aren't as robust as the Husky, but probably don't need to be with the cush drive. I'll be talking to a wheel builder to see what it would cost. Might have been better to just buy the SWM rear wheel, but I didn't. (I thought the rim and spokes might not be as high quality).

I sure do envy you having a low mileage 630- that’s great. I’ve loved mine and would love to start over. Here’s one thread about the oil screen issue. Again not necessarily common, but certainly not uncommon (and holds good potential for expensive outcomes):

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/check-those-rh-side-oil-screens-fellas.67913/

I’m sure there are other threads and tidbits on this, and I know there’s a few pages in the 630 thread on ADVrider (as I was helping one guy whose endcap was stuck in the cavity after breaking.) Yes- I am taking mine out and leaving it out this time. Just feels like a time bomb and not liking thinking about it throughout each season. By the way- the right side casing gasket is some kind of hearty. I’ve had that right side cover off countless times now and have always reused it, without issue or leaks. Also- and important (and you probably already know this): be very mindful of the positioning of the engines drive prong (to the oil pump) to the cut out where that fits into on the oil pump. Alignment is crucial to avoid breaking a lobe. Not hard- just want to be very mindful. Info here:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-oil-pump-drive-broken.25175/

The splines are definitely a concern for any of the TE’s, given the design and c-clip attachment of the sprocket. Lots out there on this, with differing theories. I’m of the belief that you want a CS sprocket of softer material than the shaft (so it wears more than the splines) and- as is often good advice for pretty much anything in life- generous lube (for this moly.) Here’s a CafeHusky discussion:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/disgusted.39509/

There’s plenty out there on this issue. Don’t be overly freaked - if you stay on top of it you should be fine (I wasn’t on top of it as much as I could have been and- considering my mileage- did pretty well.) Still, though, you wanna keep an eye on this closely as some have had toasted CS’s at low mileage. And smart on the cush hub. Even if pricey worth it, if you slab a fair amount. Now conversely it’s not absolutely necessary- again I slab a fair amount and I’ve done ok over many miles (well, with the exception of toasting rear tires every 1500 -1800 miles, so that gets annoying/expensive in its own right.

Thank you for taking the time to write this. It will be a big help, and my bike is young enough that I can get on top of these things. Interesting idea about the CS sprocket and splines. Not an issue of heard of for other bikes. Never would have occurred to me to lube the splines.

Have had good success with retaining compound on worn and loose CS sprocket splines. Locks sprocket on shaft and prevents further wear. A bit of effort to remove but well worth it. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/ca/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_641.html

Thanks. I was wondering about that too, but feared being unable to remove the sprocket. I've had bad lucl with red loctite in that regard.

Pleasure to be of help- and I sure wouldn't want to be misunderstood as thinking, myself, that I'm the well-spout of knowledge on the 630. Quite the contrary- there are so many great members here who have so much knowledge to share. I miss being a regular here.

Thanks man. I had read up on that myself (had seen it in some threads about this) so have certainly considered trying it. As it is now I'm thinking I may try what this fella did, in #54 of this thread:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/counter-shaft-splines.26957/page-3

Might be helpful to first read my post just above that- #51. Short version: Trying to capitalize on the unused/unworn splines at the outer end of the shaft.

I am very tempted, though, to try the Loctite, but I feel I've just got TOO much gap/slop and the shear torque/sudden burst of torque will break it loose in short order.

Willie- please let me know your thoughts on this. I'm not really worried about removal as this may be the last sprocket I put on (and it's new) before this thing needs to all be torn down anyway, at the mileage I'm at.

Well, before I couldsearch for the experts, I needed to increase my ignorance enough to know what I didn't know.

Have used the 641 on sloppy bearings and sprockets. Always held and when time came for removal they came apart with a gear puller and sometimes a little heat.
Haven't used the 660 but from reading specs expect it would be even better than 641 for severely damaged splines. Utilizing extra sprocket to extend splines is also excellent idea if sufficient undamaged splines remain.

Huge thanks- that’s encouraging. The way I see it nothing to lose- this course is easier and if it doesn’t work I can always go to plan b!

Forgive my taking the low road here (and I’ll do some Googling also) but let me get your opinion on this. Admittedly I don’t know the best way to apply it, yet, but I’m assuming I’d fill in the gaps on the splines and then slide the new sprocket on. Now that would squeegee some of it along towards the base of the shaft/case, squeezing out onto that area (the sprocket fits flat against that base, of course.) There’s a flat ledge section of the base of the shaft that the sprocket seats against (about 3mm) so wondering if that excess stuff squeezing out could be any kind of issue. I guess you’d periodically spin the shaft while it cures so there’s no bonding of moving areas. Maybe I’m overthinking it.