250-500cc Wiring question

I have my 300 plated and duelsported with a tusk duel sport kit. I was tired of the blinkers sometimes quitting on me because of the cheezy connectors. So I soldered them. Now my right front blinker only works and my left blinkers dont work but instead cause the front and rear tail light to blink -lol.

I made sure this stuff was all working before i soldered them. All wires are back with their respective colors. I made triple sure. Only thing I can think off thats different is the back black blinker ground wires are all soldered as one. Could that be doing it?

Below is the diagram
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/docs/wire diagram.pdf

If you are running the little battery and have all the grounds ran together and back to the battery negative you should be OK. I have all my grounds coming together at the rear and running forward. The tail light and both turn go to one wire and run to the front. That wire meets all the ground from the stuff on the front and goes to the battery. I didn't use the Tusk harness, I made my own, but I have the Tusk flasher relay, bar switch and battery.

You had to gotten something crossed, somewhere.

I forgot to mention i have the on off yellow and black wires soldered together so theres no on off switch. Its just always on. And the wires that normally got to the battery is tapped into yellow power wire. But its been this way for last year just fine.
Yeah i guess I gotta just tear into the rats nest and follow every wire yet again.

I would investigate your ground connection out back with a multimeter.

You have the Tusk switch and battery also, or you running everything off the stator?

I'm just using the battery right now and have all the grounds going to it. The ignition system is AC and is using the frame and ground. I have a rectifier coming and will go back to the WR ignition, from the CR, so I can get battery charging. But, the lighting will remain DC with a wired ground and the ignition AC with floating / frame ground.

I had a yellow and blue wire heading back to rear taillight. My dealer told me it was dc. I tapped into those for constant power. Been good for over a year now. I didnt like battery setup because i was constantly forgetting to switch off the on off switch and would drain battery

Unless you have a rectifier installed, it's AC.

No, the WR ignition puts out AC power. The stock little silver box is just a regulator.

Since you are running AC, then you can ground to the frame, so you don't need to run ground wires. Last time I ran light I just ran AC off the stock regulator and ground my tail light and signals to the last fender bolt.

This time I'm doing everything with DC, so I had to make a new harness with ground wires.

Another alternative if you need an AC regulator is the TrailTech. It is half the price of the OEM Husky reg and has adjustable output.

shouldnt I be blowing out bulbs then?

Bulbs (incandescent) are completely fine with AC. Remember, every light in your house is AC.

LEDs, however, don't work with AC. Neither do most horns.

Your '09 is going to be AC unless you added a reg/rec. 2012+ bikes (with the Ducati ignition) have a stock reg/rec.

chit.....thats why my horn wont work. Been scratching my head trying like hell to figure out why horn wont blow. everything else works great. -lol

Now...how do I get my horn working.

You said you didn't like the battery set up. Was it hooked up to the charging system or would you charge it after every time you rode? If it was hooked up, you may have a rectifier. Did the dealer install the dual sport kit or was it installed before you bought it? I just did the Radio Shack rectifier in my bike. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/867762-xr250r-dual-sport-project-using-the-tusk-kit/

I installed the ds kit. I had it setup to charge battery. Then decided i was sick of forgetting the on/off switch on and draining battery. I guess i need to make a trip to radio shack.

If you don't have a rectifier installed then you weren't charging your battery.

It seems like nobody is sure if you are running a reg/rec or if you're running on straight AC. Can you please clarify that before we go any further, just to make sure we're all on the same page?

You can buy a rectifier made specifically for a motorcycle for $40-50. I'm just a cheap SOB and went with the Radio Shack one, because I rarely use my lights. The Radio Shack version is a rectifier only, not a regulator also. On something ridden on the street where you are at a constant rpm, you might want a regulator. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trail-Tech-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c741b10ce&vxp=mtr

I just bought it thanks. Figured since i will be digging through the rats nest to rewire i might as well be adding this. Plus looking through youtube apparently my soldering was all wrong. I was just wiring wires together and dripping solder on them to meld them up. Which i guess causes "cold solders"

I have a trial tech coming from the same place. Mine is supposed to be a 4 wire unit, which doesn't have the light shut off delay. If you get the 5 wire unit, as pictured, you will have a wire that's for the delay, which is the blue wire. The one I ordered was for a Yamaha, which should only be a 4 wire unit.

To answer your question about blowing bulbs, if you are running the OE regulator you won't blow bulbs. You will get weak lights at low RPM, which is why I'm switched to DC with a small battery. That way I have constant light at all RPM and the trail tech unit will keep the battery charged, while supplying any additional power needed during operation.

Yes, cold solder joints are no good.