Wiring Woes

Powerdynamo installed! now I'm working on the wiring. I have most everything figured out (I think) The big loop of wires is to the lights and horn, had it all laid out on the bike everything makes sense. powerdynamo system and light harness connect up from the regulator and will be grounded back to frame. Now I have five loose wires left. Somehow these need to come together to create a system where turning off either of the switches (kill on bars or key) will kill the engine and lights. I really have no idea what to connect to where. Here is what I have:

Blue wire from coil
2 identical looking Black wires from bar mount kill switch
one Black&White wire and one Green wire from key switch (which is connected back to main harness with Black and Red wires)

So, anyone know how to do this?

Was there a wiring diagram with the kit ?
Or does the MZB site have one online ?

Found a basic diagram here http://www.powerdynamo.biz/eng/kb/integrate.htm

The kill switches (momentary on the handlebar, and open/closed via the key) simply ground out the coil. It looks like the blue wire from the coil should connect to one of the wires each from the key and handlebar kill switches and the other of those wires (from the key and handle bar switches) should connect to ground. That way when either are operated the coil is grounded out and will not produce a spark.

Regards
Lucien

Hi ARH,

Without having the bike here to test switches,


Blue wire should be the ignition kill wire,


Keyed kill switch,

Blue to Black/white wire.
Green to Frame/earth.


On/Off kill switch,

1 Black wire to connection of Blue and Black/White wire on keyed switch,

1 Black wire to connection Green wire/ frame earth.


You could test this first by wiring the bike and starting it, when you earth the blue wire to the frame it should stop.

If that works then wire one switch at a time to check that each switch is working.

I would like to see the wiring diagram to confirm that I am right.

Cheers, DaveM.

Hi ARH,

In this wiring diagram,

http://www.powerdynamo.biz/wiredias/71ik.gif

The (bl) blue wire is the kill wire and my wiring suggestion should be right.

Cheers, DaveM.

Thanks, I think I got it. Like this, right? Do I need the extra wire added to the ground if the key switch has a ground where it is bolted to the frame? Could it just be the Green from the key switch to one Black of the kill button?

Hi ARH,

Without testing the key switch with a multimeter I believe the top picture you have drawn is

correct.

Bolting the key switch to the bike won't guarantee a proper earth so the green earth wire is

needed.

Cheers, DaveM.

I'll do it that way, better safe than sorry. I have never done anything like this before, I can handle the "plug and play" parts, but loose ends are a little scary. So thanks again for all the help.

ARH,

Good luck with it, let us know how you get on.

Cheers, DaveM.

I fired up the bike today (it runs! yeah!) so the timing is set right and most of the wiring is good, lights work properly, key switch works as it should. The only thing I can't figure out is the kill switch. It is wired as shown in my top drawing above. The bike runs and starts with the switch in the off position, turning it "on" kills the engine. I tried swapping the 2 black wire positions, but had the same result. Any ideas what is going on?

Change the markings on the kill switch!!

I thought of that. The thing is it's the exact same switch as on of my other bikes and so would just be annoying having them opposite, if I can't figure out any other solution I'll have to do this. But there must be something not right with how its wired. I'm wondering if it because it is an AC system?

Hi ARH,

I am glad to hear you are on top of it.

Sounds like you are right the switch is not for a magneto system.

Magneto system to kill the ignition, you make a contact to earth to kill the ignition.

A 12 volt system you are making a contact to complete a circuit to put power to the ignition system.

On a vintage bike, I prefer the early push button type.

Cheers, DaveM.

Makes perfect sense when you put it that way. This is pretty much my fist time wiring anything, I am learning. I agree the push button type is correct for this bike, and I do have one, but I prefer the on/off kill for safety. Had a throttle cable get hung up one time, very hard to stop with the "hold down the button type". This is not really a restoration anyway, I used a modern control cluster and replaced all the wiring and ignition, added period correct lights and a horn to male it legal, but no modifications that can't be reverted back to original, I'm saving all the take off parts. I did do my research on the turn signals and got a special AC compatible flasher unit. I also learned that LED turn signals will not work with AC, needs to be the regular type bulbs for some reason. Thanks again.

Hi ARH,

I am glad to hear it's going well for you!

Top marks on working out that you need a compatible flasher unit, I bought mine from a motorcycle shop and the dude

explained to me that the magneto changes voltage depending on revs, so the flasher unit needs to work over varying

voltages, so I bought the motorcycle specific one he suggested, was cheap and works no problems.

I am lazy, so I am using original Husqvarna bulb type blinkers, if I smash one there are new ones on E-bay cheap,

maybe copies but they look good, about $15 each not sure on postage.

I believe you have to get LED blinkers with a built in resistor or add a resistor yourself?

Too much work for me!

Cheers, DaveM.

Hey guys new to this site, I am reading up on wiring a kill switch on my bike because it simply does not have one just trying to figure out which wire is what. And looking at your diagram it makes sence why it runs in the off position. Because in the on position you are completing the circuit from coil power to ground and it kills the bike, power will take the path of least resistance. So from your magneto to the coil but it would rather go through the ignision and to ground rather then the coil. With the ignision in the off position the ground circuit is broken and all power will go to the coil. My theory can be tested with a multi meter. 2 diffrent ways to fix this. Either put your key ignision inline with your power to the coil circuit. In the on position it will complete the circuit feeding power to the coil. In the off posionion it brakes the circuit stopping power to the coil killing the bike.
example cut the main power wire and run it through the key ignision leaving your push button as is. Or just relable your switch. Please correct me if I am wrong ladys and gents.