250-500cc WR 360 Clutch pull

since nobody responded to the other post, I'll see if someone has an answer on this one.

The clutch pull is a little tight and feels sorta notchy. Cleaned out the cable and oiled it up good. Slides like a champ. Connect it up and it feels easier but still pretty stiff and not full pull fluid. Is there an adjustment I'm overlooking other than on the handlebars, that I should look at?

I haven't been able to start it in gear either, yet, is it possible?

They can be tough to start in gear, especially cold. If my clutch pull gets stiff, its usually the cable. I wrap some old hose around the cable where it goes past the pipe and head since thats been smashed to pretty tight clearances and I've had the cable partially melt in that area. Good luck tho.

Thanks for the info, cable looks good and is free just like a new cable, it looks like a new cable. Just when I hook it up to pull the clutch, it is isn't easy like a crf150f, so maybe that's just the way it is and I have to get used to it.

Do you use the clutch to shift into any other gears, other than from a stand still?

WR 360 clutch pull is stiff with a new cable but you get used to it. Before I got an EFM clutch, I got an easy pull lever and perch. Really helped. Of course with a 360 there is very little need to use the clutch.

I can start my 360 in gear although I prefer not to. I think it is easier on the kickstart mechanism and parts to start in neutral. I do this on all my bikes. Just starting a 360 takes a bit of finesse.

Oil choice can affect the starting in gear. I found Amsoil 0w40 motorcycle oil works the best.

As far as clutch pull, I have a Hebo hydraulic clutch kit on my bike and the pull is about the same as any other bike. It is not as light a pull as a full hydraulic clutch.

Well the clutch and evening starting a CRF150f is just a little different to a Wr360.

Anyway, the clutch pull even with a new cable is stiff on a Wr360, l would suggest an easy pull lever and perch as Wallybean mention but l would ditch the standard cable and source a venhill teflon coated cable. With this combo, the pull will be significantly lighter compared to standard.
The Hebo hydraulic unit is the way to go but l've (living in Australia) have had a hard time sourcing the unit so the combo above works for me.

Rarely use the clutch on upshifts and some downshifts depending on the speed l'm travelling and this tends to thin out the gearbox oil so a sure sign that the gearbox oil needs changing is the difficulty of finding neutral...well that's the signs l get when l get a little lazy replacing the oil.
Note: At the end of every second ride l change the gearbox oil or 8-10hrs of riding - the more gear changes aka tight stuff, the regularity l change the gearbox oil.

Thanks for the info, started to get worried, I was the only one on the planet with one left running. I will change the oil today and get a few minutes on it over the weekend.

I also put the fork settings back to stock, this thing wanders and has hard hits, so I gotta start from scratch. I was trying to set the rear back to stock settings, but the high speed adjustment, I'm unable to turn by hand, would that be normal. The top clicker works easily.
Any suggestions for setup on the suspension would also be helpful.

i extended the actuating arm at the engine about 7mm to give better leverage.
this can be done by cutting and welding in a small section of steel.
be careful not to extend too much as the cable can interfere with the engine breather outllet.