All 2st WR sag settings.

What sort of sag setting are you WR (125 old chassis-250-300) riders running?

I've tried running the recommended 100mm, but something doesn't seem right. I've taken two turns out of the preload and it's got me about 108mm and it feels better.

Mine was too close to the recommended spec right out of the crate for me to even mess with. I sorta wish mine was a tad softer, and would sink down an inch or so more, for better footing in the technical stuff,...but I really messed up the handling on a bike I had once by cranking out the pre-load to lower it, so I try to refrain from that now.
If your front end is biting good in flat bermless turns, and not washing out,...and you like the way it handles and feels, then I'd say you've got it tuned to suit your own style.

Same goes for me, mine was fine right out of the box. I'm 175# w/o gear and 6'1", if that helps at all. Brad.

Yeah, that's why I'm asking, I don't want to run it too low and screw up the handling. Most mfg.'s recommend 100mm, but there are bikes that seem to work better with a little more or less.

I was just wondering if that might be the case with the WR's. If everybody's running 105 to 110mm of sag then that's possible the case. If I'm the odd ball, then I need to figure out what my real problem is.

My "unladden" sag is still in a reasonable range to suggest that I have the right spring rate, yet the preload on the spring seems a bit higher than normal.

May all be in the linkage ratios. To my knowledge, this is basically the same linkage / chassis combination that they've had since the late '90's and be a little different than some of the newer designs.

Sort of like your XR400. They're a little different than most other bikes and require some huge spring rates.

What model to you have?

I was going to ask a similar question today. I have mine at 100mm and have two lines showing on the fork tubes. I put a trials tire on for the summer and the bike turned much better. The tall tire obviously steepened the angle of the forks. I am going back to a knobby now and want to keep the same quick handling. I am going to set the forks with 3 lines above the clamps but am also wondering if I should try less sag, maybe 95mm to start.

This is an 06 WR125

2008 WR250. The other thing that I think really helped with cornering and stability was raising the forks in the triple clamps, mine are 2 notches up. The more miles I put on this bike the suspension keeps getting plusher and plusher, I'm really starting to like it. Brad.

I really like my WR250 with three lines showing on the forks and sag at 105mm. Turns well and is easier for the vertically challenged amongst us. Don't recommend this if you are going jumping alot as I occasionally bottom it as is with my 200lb butt.

Walt

A big dog just told me to check my sag; "with your legs straight down from your hips, feet on the ground, "not on the pegs". body all the way forward like your entering a turn, head over the top triple clamp. You should find satisfactory steering feel around 100-105mm on the 250 and 95-100 on the 125."

AAAAAH,....I know what "big dog" told you that!
He told me pretty much word for word the same thing.

He also told me not to torque my lower triple clamp bolts to the 18 ft/lbs that the manual states,....back 'em off to 11 ft/lbs he said.

Ain't it great to be able to talk suspension with him?!

Yep, sure is.

What's the reason for that?

Does it apply only to specific models/years or is the torque figure too high on all models? I'm worried now as I would have used the figure from the workshop manual if I needed to tighten them, not knowing any differently.

They like to run lighter lower clamp pinch torque to eliminate any distortion of the fork tubes that might cause binding.

Me, I over torque the top, under torque the bottom. The top has the cap in it, so it's much harder to distort the tube, and there's nothing moving up there like in the lower area.

Yep,...that's it.

And now to address your next obvious question Petem,.....
'Big Dog' told me not to worry too much about having done
any lasting damage to the upper tubes if 18 ft/lbs (or thereabouts)
was all you had torqued them to. The bushings on the lower sliders
will open up any minor binding that may have occured.

Cooo, that's very impressive and saved me having to ask! Are you a psychic in your spare time?

Actually I'm worried now as I was thinking of the PIN number for my bank card a moment ago...

Seriously though, thanks for the useful info. With my level of skill I need all the performance I can get from the suspension to make up for it.

ive never set the sag on my bike

I'd say well over 50% don't. Only reason most of the guys I ride with have is because I did it for them.

Well, I figure Husqvarna brethren by nature have to be pretty 'like-minded',...and that was the first thing that popped into my mind when he told me to loosen those clamps.

Like MOTORHEAD said though,....torque those top ones good.

Thanks, I will.

I figure I'll use up the 7 ft/lbs I've saved on the lower clamp by adding it to the top one instead. I think the resulting 25 ft/lbs should do the trick nicely. :smashpc:

If it was a Ford head it would be tight plus one full turn

Walt