250-500cc WR250 04

I was looking for a 2005 CR125 on facebook I found someone saying he might sell his 2005 wr250 cheap as it wasn't revving out and leaking coolant .

So I always wanted a wr250 - had a few wr300s but still love the look the older ones.
I rode it and it felt good apart from this issue and looked reasonably clean

Got it home and checked it over. The head bolts weren't tight so coolant seemd to be laking through bolts - leakage problem fixed . Needs a new clutch cable - Motion pro? Speedo not working - wires broke . I put the kickstand from the TE on an it fits ok - just out of interest

Pulled head off and it all looks good - been running very rich.

Plug was very wet - black .

It has a DEP pipe and Boyesen Reeds . Piston done around 50 hours.
Older Mikuni which run leaner settings than newer.
It had a JD kit which had been removed for some reason
I leaned jetting from 400 main to 380 main with a 30 pilot with blue JD needle and needle jet( which is the thing these need apparently ) I know Im doing more than one change but hey I want to put the JD kit in

Starts well and sounds very good until quarter throttle .
If its not jetting I m not sure what else it might be

Doesn't seem to be dripping fuel - float level
Power valve seems to be functioning but may try running with cover off to make sure its opening

I will put in a new plug and lower needle as it was lowered previously and seemed better then . So will try on 1 or 2
Need to take it out to test it properly and warm it up

Not sure what else it could be- any thoughts ?

Clean and repack silencer. Nice bike!

yeh - for what I paid hopefully it is. Will check out silencer soon but it sounds fresh .

I know that I liked the 300 but mine were hard to start - this doesn't have that problem .
Im hoping it feels lighter to ride .
I also like the 10.5? litre tank .

Can anyone recommend a good clutch lever for a lighter pull and does the Motion pro cable make a difference for lightness?

Motion Pro is currently the best cable available, don't forget if the cable was straight there would be no resistance, so consider your routing carefully
the Domino lever works quite well on my bikes, no complaints

on the power issue, pull the power valve cover and confirm it's working

I might try to get a Sunline lever as they fold forward and were lighter from memory.
Similar to an ARC lever .

Dropping the needle and a new BR7ES plug seems to have helped. Will have to test ride properly . After some warming its now revving and yes the power valve is opening .
It seems to have more over rev than a 300 - cant wait to ride it now.

I have a sunline lever on my beta. Nice feel plus like you said folds forward as well as up and down. I have a soft spot for those huskys. I have an 04 cr125, an 04 wr144 and just got rid of my 02 cr125 with FBF 135 kit. I’d like to find something like that but I don’t see many of them in a 250 or 300 around here

Never seen an 04 wr125. I dont think they had them here . Seen '01 '02 . Me too I ve had an 06 , 08 , 2013 wr125s, 09 cr125, and had them in 144 and 165s . A 2010 and 2013 wr300. There are a lot of 250s around here .
Always wanted a FBF 135 - I bought a cylinder but it was actually only a 125 . I think a 135 or 139 would be supercool . I also found from a test ride that the '04 cr125s went really well and have a good CDI

I tried the newer ktm Husky for a year and its good but not really a love affair .
I think this motor is going to be one of my favourites

No '04 WR125's in the US. Cagiva USA sold some WR kitted CR125's.... enduro light kit and WR ignition.

The motor is what I like most about the WR250, a touch lacking in bottom end, but the mid range hit into the monster top end always satisfies. Reminds me of my old RM250, also a great motor.

Dropped the gearbox oil and its milky . Water in it. Not sure if the inner head gasket is no good or if its from when it had the loose head bolts . The gaskets seem a bit flat .

Coolant is bubbling like crazy when radiator cap removed - not sure if this just the pump ?

Hopefully it’s the head o rings, if there’s bubbling that’s an obvious “good” sign. They are a lot less of a Pita than the water pump repair. All good though, the water pump is easily do able if you have half a clue. The reason I signed up to Cafe Husky was to find out how to do this job, so the resources are here. Have you ridden it hard yet?

Head orings won't affect gearbox oil. Woulda sucked up water through breathers or dodgy water pump seal or similar.

Coolant flow should be like a garden hose turned on slowly when looking through cap at idle. Haha don't rev it with cap off! If inner head oring gone could be pressurising cooling system but it wouldn't be that noticeable through cap I wouldn't have thought unless it was reallllllly shagged

If ya need some head orings let me know have a few spare sets

Yes, all of the above clearly true, so sadly it will probs be the silly water pump leak after all. Boo.

Thanks Shawry . I used some high temp sealent under and over the orings anyway . But the inner one is rectangular in section - thought they were round .
The previous owner said he 'd had water pump done recently so maybe he or his mechanic didn't bother changing the oil . So all good hopefully for now.

I haven't ridden yet - getting new clutch cable today . Clutch is heavy. Might try that removing one spring trick .

Cant get Sunline levers any longer - they went broke.

Might try Zeta clutch lever/ perch

I pulled apart and greased up the sticking kick start lever.

It seems to bang on the footpegs

The radiator hoses are super soft - not sure that means they are about stuffed .
Chain was pretty seized so I have put the one off the 450 on - might gain a few hp right there

One of the thin speedo wires near the brake has broken - not sure if it can be just joined up again

which clutch lever is currently on it?
and you sort of get used to kicking to the peg
pull the hoses and look inside, or pressure test the system and see if they swell

Kickstart hitting the peg solution

Hey guys still having this rich symptom

Anyone know how to test the coil ? Resistance for older Wr250 - been told it may be a faulty ignition advance curve - coil ?

now that there is some quality engineering