1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

All 2st wr250 bogging

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by wxc300, Feb 24, 2012.

  1. wxc300 Husqvarna
    B Class

    I have a 2011 wr 250 and I bought this bike new and I installed the Keihin air stryker with the jd needles. Im 700 feet asl and I went by jetting others were using. I have a bog from idle to wideopen if throttle is jerked real fast. I have tried different pilot and needle positions and main jet sizes to. I let the bike idle and sprayed starter fluid around the intake to see if their was any air leaks and didnt find one. If you open the throttle slowely it runs great. I started with a 45 pilot and have gone down to a 38 and the air screw adjustment stays the same whatever pilot I have tried 1/2 to 3/4 turns out any more and it bogs more. I checked the float height and it 16mm and that is in specifications. Main jet Ive tried 180 down to 162 and I tried both jd needles on all positions. Im either overlooking something simple or something else is wrong, anywone have any ideas.
  2. PC. Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Beaverton, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    CR165 & CR144
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM500
    What needle and which clip position is it set at?
    I have a wr300 with the keihin and its sensitive to the needle


    if I were to take a shot in the dark and assuming your temps are in the 50's Id start with 175mj, 45pj and whatever needle you're using in the middle clip. That will be close at least.
  3. wxc300 Husqvarna
    B Class

    I did start with the jetting you describle and its about 40 degrees here and then i went with a 42 pilot, red needle middle clip and 175 main. I have went to 40 and 38 on the pilot and smaller main jet to and no matter what I do I still get a bogging. Air filter is freshly oiled to.
  4. PC. Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Beaverton, OR
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    CR165 & CR144
    Other Motorcycles:
    KTM500
    That 42/175 combo should be about perfect for you in those temps and elevation. If you have any other needles to try then I'd give that a shot. I ended up using a N3EJ (yz250 needle) in mine as it was very picky about needle selection, but it would never just fall on its face like you describe.

    If the bike ran good with the Mikuni then you can rule out electrical issues. You can also rule out a clogged jet since you've been swapping them out and getting the same results.

    Did you leave a rag in the airbox? I have and it does pretty much what you are describing.
    Over oiled the air filter?
    Old gas?

    Its also possible that the 16mm you measured for the float isn't what the carb needs. I never measure when setting the floats, instead I set it by eye using the method described in this thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/347305-is-your-two-stroke-running-rich-read-here/

    If your float height is off and there's not enough fuel in the bowl to feed the motor when the throttle is whacked then she's gonna choke and sputter.

    I know this is no fun chasing tuning gremlins, but stick with it. The Keihin works real good on these bikes and is worth the effort.
  5. wxc300 Husqvarna
    B Class

    I have tried 42-p and 175-m and red needle and its close but has a slight bog. I pulled the reed cage and the reeds aren't frailed. I have just found out that some people were breaking reeds because they are thin but I dont know if this was fixed on the 2011 models. I do like this bike and its my first Husky but Im disapointed to be having these problems with it.
  6. Lincolnlock Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Mount Vernon, WA
    Have you looked at every passage in the carb to be sure that they are all open? A friend of mine had a small piece of grit stuck under the pilot jet that gave him fits for months until he took the carb completely off and checked everything. He even swapped pilot jets, but no dice. Don't get discouraged, you'll figure this out.
  7. lankydoug Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    MO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    TM 300en
    If you're trying to solve carb tuning problems then only change one circuit at a time and mark your throttle positions with tape so you know exactly what circuit you are riding. Wide open is only on the main jet circuit so the pilot, slide and needle will have little affect. If jetting is having little affect you may want to check ignition timing as well as mechanical thing that can cause poor performance like power valve operation and compression. You mentioned that you bought the bike new, how did it run with the original Mikuni? How many hours are on it and has it ever run right?
    ohmygewd likes this.
  8. wxc300 Husqvarna
    B Class

    Less than two hours riding with the mikuni. I went back today to a 175 main and 45 pilot and 1-3/4 air screw and blue needle in middle position and its running good. The temperature is 45 and the air is thick. Im going to leave it here for awile and make adjustments later if needed.
  9. Lincolnlock Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Mount Vernon, WA
    I run a 42 pilot and a 175 main. JD Red needle on the 2nd from the top. No bogs, and the bike never loads up, even in the worst, slow, messed up nasty single track you can throw at it.
  10. R_Little Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    NJ
    make sure your Power Valve is not sticking.

    The bike gets loud and looses power at low rpm when that happens
  11. wxc300 Husqvarna
    B Class

    I rode the bike 45 miles today and it was a high of 64 degrees today, It ran great and its got good torque off the bottom and its got really good rev to. Im waiting for one more ride to break the suspenshion in before I set the sag and adjust the clickers. I have had several KTMs over the years and this bike is very competive against them and considering it's alot less expensive, I feel its a better deal.