All 2st WR250 Clutch Help

I have a 2008 WR250 and the clutch is on its last leg. So after looking at the Rocky Mtn web site today, I see some steel plates for $57 and then they have another set of plates and friction material for $107. What do I really need? Is there cheaper or better option? I know I can call Halls but wanted to see what you guys have done in the past. Any tricks or tips?

Also, looks like the Husky application is the same as the Honda CRF450r 2002-2015 or the CR250r 1990-2007. That should help on the cost with Honda producing so may of these bikes...

You really need to take it apart and measure first, otherwise you are just guessing.

Yes Honda cr250r clutch plates are the same but I believe Huskies use 1 more plate than Honda so you would need more than one Honda kit. However, KTM parts has an oem kit (steel/friction plates) for $95... http://www.ktm-parts.com/800088966.html

Just call jeff at halls order the parts install and ride I just did for my 300 all is good at Halls

Comanche - I used your link and called the guys at ADMC. Turns out they sell the exact same kit and part number as Halls (#800088966). They were $95 and $76 after their 20% on line discount promotion. I saved a few bucks - Thanks for the tip!

Guys- any tips or tricks to swapping out the clutch? Any special tools or torq specs that may trip me up?

If you just gonna change plates you dont need anything special, maybe a torqwrench (or what its called?)
But if you gonna take out the whole basket i would buy a wrench that prevent the hub from spinning. I used gear and back brake and powertool to get mine off. But mine was very tight, and its not ideal to do it like that..
Btw. If you gonna change the plates, check the springs. I would change those to, i dont think they are expensive. But its not necessary if they are fine.

don't for get to soak the frictions in what ever your using in the trans for a few hours

Thanks Troy. I almost forgot about the 'soak'. Unless the basket looks worn, I see no reason to pull it out. This should be a pretty simple plate and friction swap... Does anyone know if the clutch cover is a rubber O-ring seal or a paper seal?

O-ring seal. If its paper you should be able to see it.

While you're there you can adjust the pushrod length in the center of the clutch hub to get the ideal geometry on your cable arm at the case. Back off the cable adjustment (at the lever) and then adjust the pushrod length so that the arm at the case pulls through 90 degrees as the clutch disengages.

So this weekend, I installed the new OEM clutch in my '08 WR250. The bike has somewhere around 100 hours on it. The original clutch looked like new. The friction was hardly warn and the plates looked perfect. Not one groove in the basket. I went ahead and put the new unit in but it looks like my original clutch was good for a few more years.

sounds like your push rod ws a little long was it slipping?