125-200cc WR300 clutch actuator mod

I am planning on modding my clutch atuator on my 2012 WR300. I would like to add 5 mm or so to the length in order to give it a lighter pull at the lever. If anyone has done this already, I'd love to hear your comments, tricks, tips, and any pics you might have.
Thanks!
Moderator- please move to appropriate location-accidentally posted on 125-200cc
Thanks

when i thought i was buying a WR250, i bookmarked this thread. hope it helps!

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/wr-250-300-ez-pull-clutch.20623/#post-180778

Awesome, thanks!
I actually just purchased a used actuating arm for a WR on ebay. I will mod that one and swap it with the stock one. I'll post up some pics. Ive got a friend who can fab it and powdercoat it so it will look completely factory.

And here I was thinking about drilling another hole closer to the pivot to give the shaft a longer pull with the same amount of lever pull.

I have done several, just grind old lever off, fab new one, weld on shaft. If you use a Ms Raptor perch or similar with this mod. Turns your clutch into a one finger lever all day.

Might look at the other end of the cable. You can mill a new cable nut hole in the lever; same size as the OEM opening, right beside the OEM location. This is the fastest way to EZ-up your clutch pull and works very well- have done my four wr250's for the last ten years: no issues. Reduces the lever pull by about 25-30%. Cable wear is increased because you do use the clutch more- due to the fact that it works better.
I figure I always have the quick adjuster at the perch if I abuse the clutch, anything I can do to save energy in a race is good for me. Any time the cable needs adjusting, it needs replacing.

I am not trying to make the pull easier. (moving the hole inward would actually make it harder) I thought of this to move the clutch more with the same lever pull.

with all due respect, your comment would suggest you do not at the moment understand leverage."Give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I shall move the world."
Archimedes

Simply; if you move the lever cable nut location more near the fulcrum[the lever bolt] the same amount of lever pull moves the cable less distance with less energy.

I am not talking about the lever on the bars. I am talking about moving where the cable attaches to the clutch arm on the motor closer to the pivot point. Same movement of the lever on the bars will move the clutch arm further.trying to eliminate the clutch drag issue.

Shorter actuator =harder pull. Do you have a terminator cable? I installed one and my clutch has no drag. I just want a lighter pull on the lever; hence the lengthened acutator arm. I am going to race eastern enduro/hare scrambles races in 2013 and it'd be nice to have a lighter clutch lever.

I still have the stock cable and mainly ride dessert so it hasn't been a problem. I have started riding with a different group on once and a while who do single track stuff and noticed a slight problem.

Understood. I always just did the lever to lighten my clutch feel because it is so simple to do. This lever change moves the clutch cable less distance when I pull the clutch lever. I never thought about clutch drag. Moving the cable nut more near the pivot point on the clutch actuator arm I suspect will make your clutch feel heavier. I believe your formula has the standard movement of the clutch cable compressing the clutch springs more than stock. I think it should reduce drag as a result.