250-500cc WR300 Float Bowl Screws

With the cooler fall temps upon us here in this region, I decided the other day to go ahead and fatten up my jetting a tad by installing my new 32.5 pilot jet I got from JD Jetting. I hadn't had the float bowl off since early spring, and hadn't anti-seized the screws,...and the inevitable finally happened. Despite trying my best to be careful, I boogered up the phillips head of the one single screw on the front face of the bowl so badly that I couldn't remove it. I can clamp down on the head with a pair of vise-grips, but I can't turn it because the jaws are touching the bowl. Two questions,....1) What's the slickest way to remove the messed up screw? And 2) What size are those screws and where could I get some stainless steel allen head cap screws to replace them with? Come to think about it,...I'd like to find something with an allen head to replace that stupid phillips head trans oil level check screw with too. That thing's another booger job just waiting to happen.
Thanks for any ideas, suggestions, or even verbal floggings for having done this in the first place.

take a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut a slot in the screw head then remove it with the snug fitting slotted screw driver. If you have a driver with a hex shank with a box end wrench or use an "apex" slotted tip in a ratchet for better leverage and control. Then smile and and get some new screws or hex heads. My opinion is to never even use the trans oil screw and just use the spec amount of oil for each oil change, been doing that for years even my 08 does not have an oil window anymore.

You should be able to get the stainless steel socket head screws you need from Mcmaster-Carr, they'll be expensive because they have everything. www.mcmaster.com Brad.

When this happened on my 125, I was about to use one of those screw removal bits, but ended up getting it off with a needle nose vice grip pliers.
Bought a replacement screw at Ace Hardware for 10 cents.

I like the dremmel tip that Robert posted. If that fails then a reverse drill bit will either a) remove the broken screw or b) drill a hole for the EZ out.

I dont remember what size those screws were, but I managed to find stainless hex head replacements at Ace Hardware. Just take an old one with you and match it up at the store.

also you can always use an oversize drill bit and take the head right off and after removing the other screws and pulling the cover you will have a shank of the screw sticking out and then you can grab it with needle nose vise grips and get some twists on it.

Exactly what I would do.

Thanks guys!,...I really appreciate it.

Kelly: Good point. Hadn't thought of that. I could use a driver handle with an allen bit on it,...and just go easy.

Robert: The Dremel/straight slot idea sounds fool proof,...I like it,...but I bet that'd throw sparks like crazy. If I go that route rather than the drill-out method, and blow my face off, I'll instruct the wife to pass out my bikes and tools to you guys.

Seriously,...what a great bunch of buds. Thanks again!

I have also used a flat head screw driver that fits into the damaged phillips head and then used a hammer to seat it into the screw

If you don't feel like finding the screws on your own - Ron at RB-Designs packages up a kit with stainless screws, lock washers & the allen wrench for the PWK carb.



His carb mods also get very good reviews with the GasGas crowd. He bores carb, inserts divider plate, but the big changes are internal to the carb where he modifies the low speed circuitry to improve it's sensitivity.

His head work is also highly recommended - dials in squish and reshapes combustion chamber for optimal compression.

I am not affilated with RB-Designs in any way - just really admire his work. I am affiliated with LT-Racing (who is now sponsoring this forum) - I am good friends with Les and help him out with his website, etc.

Jeff

I've just used needle nose vice grips in the past. FYI.... pilot jet on the new style TMX can be accessed through the drain plug like the main jet. On my '09 WR125, I just twist the carb, pull the drain and it's right next to the main jet. 6mm deep socket and it's out and back in, presto! The old style TMX was only one screw and the drain plug holding the float bowl, new one is three screws, so not messing with bowl to change pilot is a plus.

I did not know that Mr. Foley,...thank you immensely, that is a plus!

You know though,...that pilot isn't a 6mm hex like the main,...it's round and slotted for a flat blade screwdriver. Is it tricky to get it back up in there and threaded in straight with a screwdriver through that hole?

Thank you, that is a very neat little kit indeed. You couldn't pay for the gas you'd burn looking for screws on your own with the 6 bucks the kit costs!

Wonder if they'll fit the Mikuni TMX as well as the Keihin PWK?

I guess I was thinking main jet there. I use a smaller flat blade screwdriver for the pilot jet. It's a slight angle in, but quite doable.

Great,...fantastic!,...Thanks again Norman. I wish the Keihins on my KTMs were made like that. Not only are the drain holes too small, but they also have this white plastic funnel shaped piece that pushes up over the main jet inside the bowl. When you remove the drain plug, the main jet is all you can even see.

I cant change the jets on my 300 without removing the carb. Unless I want to drain the fuel and remove the petcock, which is the cause of the carb not rotating far enough to access the bottom.

And a huge +1 to Ron Black @ RB Designs. The ONLY person other than myself who touches my motors. Great 2 stroke motor guy

Yeah, I imagine it is a little tighter fit in our 300s than it is in the 125s. The top hits the petcock on a left side roll, and the pipe on a right side roll, don't it?

Pop the tank off?