250-500cc WR300 vs GasGas EC300

so I rode my friends 02 EC300 and it's WAAAYYYY faster than my WR300. seat of pants says 30-40%. I could easily wheelie it in first 4 gears on power alone.

mine has autoclutch and Lectron (which I am beginning to think is too lean now)

i can't believe his bike is that much faster. i can hold mine WFO and not scare myself, but I can't do it on his, it just flips..

other than more messing with Lectron, any idea why his is so much faster?

mine has only 42 hours and his is..who the heck knows..we just did fresh rings on his bike

My bike felt WAY faster than yours when we rode in NJ. SNJ's bike felt similar to mine.

The jetting you had in the TMX at the time didn't seem too far off. Have you checked the compression?

I don't think that the autoclutch should make a difference, but maybe it's adjusted wrong and is slipping?

Something is definitely wrong with your bike/setup/motor...

so now i got Lectron in there, and bike starts easier and is much smoother but no real improvement in top end power..
I only have 41 hour on the bike..too early for rebuild i would think...

perhaps gearing? what do you have?

Interesting. I've rode 3 GG 300's and had the exact opposite experience. I bet that auto clutch is robbing the power.

if you're talking top end power the tmx is better IMO

I am not talking about small difference, i dont really feel top end difference between Lectron and TMX. (no tunning of Lectron powerjet yet)

what does my plug says?

The plug looks pretty good, not to far off at all (a fraction rich)? Was it a high speed/revs/wide open plug chop?

Have you checked you're getting full throttle with the Lectron? (sorry you probably have) Maybe contact Kelly for advice/parts for the lectron?

I have fitted a rekluse clutch to mine...no noticeable loss of power at all. (And I cant think of a reason why it would.)

Does the power valve operate?

My gearing is stock (13/49?).

I don't think it's a Lectron problem, your bike was weak with the TMX too, and SNJs was way more powerful with the same carb.

The hours "should" be too early for a rebuild, but it also should have like 10-20 more horsepower.

I'd check the compression and yank the autoclutch and see how it works.

Didn't the older ones occasionally have problems with reed petals breaking?

As WayneL said, make sure the power valve is opening. The height of the power valve at the fully open position can be adjusted - higher = more top end.

Mine ran terribly at high RPM when I put the Lectron in. I leaned it out by about 3/4 of a turn and it runs much better. It was still very strong in the midrange before adjusting it and would easily wheelie in 4th.

Check for restrictions in your intake and exhaust.

thats the thing.. my bike runs clean, starts eary no funny sounds or anything.. just down on power. Like Kyle says. 10HP easy..

so I will take Reeds out and check them out, I have stock header with Leo vince silencer. I do have spark arrestor screen there, I will take it out.

when checking for power valve, what should I look for?

Take both side covers off, make sure no bolts have fallen out (don't ask how I know this), start the bike and make sure the valves open smoothly when you rev it. There can be a lot of spooge in there and it can foul up the valves (also, don't ask )

To set the stops you need to take the head off and measure from the top of the cylinder to the top of the valve with it fully opening. There is a good description of the procedure on this site if you do a search.

One more thing to check is your ignition timing.

The 250 and 300 have fairly low stock compression. I know there was a factory race head available for the 300. I had the stock head modified to raise the compression on my 250 for a nice boost in power.

Must be. I put a lectron on mine and its a absolute banshee now. But i dont have autoclutch either

thanks!

when checking ignition, do you mean to check timing?

What kind of shape is your exhaust in? My 250 starts fine has plenty of low and mid but doesn't pull on top like it used to. I think it's because my pipe has a kinked pretty bad at the first turn out of the exhaust port.

from a motocross action article where they dynoed dented pipes:

"(1) The worst dent is one located in the first 6 inches of the exhaust pipe. A dent in the head pipe will hurt both the bottom and the top (and the fall-off before peak will be significant). If your exhaust pipe gets a dent in the head pipe?or even worse, is squashed flat?it needs to be replaced."

I would say pipe is in new condition cause of the pipe guard...so that's not it.