250-500cc wr360 lean or rich? help needed.

ive recently ran into minor problems with my 96 wr360, its had the top end done new spark plug power valves cleaned all the electrics seem to be fine, its running a mikuni carb (plz don't suggest me change as im on a budget currently and it overall runs ok as is) and it bogs down in what I would say is the mid range (only now and then prob 1 in 5 times I hit gas hard) before it gets on the pipe and roars wich suggests could be lean from what ive been reading, but at the same time its hard to start and sputters a in the low revs from take off wich suggests its rich, also its warmer weather here lately and the rich symptoms are only since the warmer weather but the other was there before and I have no clue when it comes to carby and jetting but I have read the air screw adjuster might be all I need to tweak with since the bike generaly runs just fine and has plenty of power in the top end or mid range (when its not bogging down a bit) so if anyone could point me in the right direction please id appreciate it, also one last thing to note as far as I can tell the only other 2 things that could possibly cause my bogging could be exhaust packing and the reeds but I could be wrong there so feel free to correct me lol

edit: also if it helps since it got warmer and seems to be "rich" it idles high but in gear it almost stalls out on me and if I adjust the idle screw to stop it stalling it is way to high when not in gear

First check for air leaks at the rubber intake boot and reed block. Most add sealant or gasket to the reed block to avoid leaks. Check the rubber boot for cracks and make sure it bolts up nice and snug.
May be time to get a clue about carbs and jetting. Plenty of info here and on the net. Since your carb is 20 years old maybe just order a rebuild kit, jet kit, etc. Who knows which jets or other parts are worn or clogged or need adjusting. 20 yr old float? Does it puke fuel? If the float level is correct it should over flow fuel when leaned @ 45 degrees, not before.
Typical Mik/Husky cold start ritual: lean the bike @ 45 degrees until fuel over flows; make sure you're in neutral!; choke on; poke the kicker a little until you get it at the top; crate or bucket for left foot; remove the wash plug kick like you mean it, not like my little sister Should start in 3 or 10 tries, if not something is not right. Sorry, but best is to save your pennies and get a Lectron.

find out what jets are in the carb, the bike should run pretty well and start "easily" with the something close to the stock settings..before i swapped to lectron, i had no problems starting my 95 equipped with a mikuni. ran ok thru the range as well..bike always started 2-3 kicks cold, 1-2 hot. if it takes much more theres a problem with you or the bike.
need to verify carb settings and contents firstmost.
im betting steve is correct in that the intake boot is getting real beat up if original...silencer needs packed tightly before doing carb tuning usually..reeds should have been checked when topend was done??

yes im now starting to read a lot more and try learn about carbs, and I started it up today as im going for a ride tomorrow and it took me 3 kicks from cold (never takes more than 1 when hot), almost fired on first and I messed second kick up, and I know the pipes on carb dosnt leak there new clamps and good rubber not ruined, ive not looked at reed block yet I was actually thinking of replacing reeds as soon as possible maybe i'll seal it up to be safe while im at it, thanks for the info it seems that could be the likely case as the bike now (after I did a minor air screw adjustment today) runs very well apart from the minor bogging when I hit it hard to take off fast

edit: float is ok it only leaks when leaned over and such, ive also cleaned all the jets that much I do know how to do

I did look at the reeds Justintendo but they looked ok (didn't appear broken or cracked and opened up ok)and I didn't want to try source them at that time as I was on a budget and spent over it already on the rebuild, and umm yeah I havnt done silencer yet but I plan to soon although I don't get any spooge come out so it may be ok for a little while longer?

Sounds like you may just need carb fine tuning. Maybe confirm you have strong spark, 20 yr old CDI and spark cable could need attention too.

my 360 did this right before the ignition became useless, it would start a few kicks cold a bunch hot
replaced the ignition ran fine
replaced with Lectron and ran GREAT
don't be surprised if it's ignition, as you said it is intermittent

A bog a soon as you open the throttle @30-45 will be your main jet / needle jet it will splutter then run like a stabbed rat.. YOU'RE rich.

A lean state is obvious that when you chop the throttle the revs dont die and it hangs there, you havent got that have you?

my mikrappy was set as stock i would fowel a brang new plug in 4 hours less if i was gunning it, believe it or not since i solved my issues im on the same plug for over a year now!
Thank you kelly

Good luck half the dark art is sorting out in your head and ears what your hearing the motor do.
Check for air leaks is always #1

it runs fine all the time 2premo just bogs down for a few seconds before it gets on the pipe when I throttle hard/fast sometimes but I guess anythings possible I dunno about cdi's and such, and the carb likely does need a tune NCsteve and yeah strong enough spark to start it first kick every single time no questions once warmed (generaly 2-3 cold apart from lately since its warmed up here) and once its running runs no problems at all apart from the slight bog when I throttle hard wich to me seems to be carby not cdi/spark but again im no expert with either of these things just going by what ive read/seen

well juicy I can steady throttle just fine its when I get moving say 10kmph or so and punch it it starts to go "pauses" then really goes so it kinda bogs down a bit like that, also ive not fouled a plug yet either and it really dosnt smoke to much either (and apart from recently wich im putting down to warmer weather this time of year it always had no problem starting) so im not sure if its actually rich or not, I did today richen my air screw a half a turn to a complete turn and it smokes a tiny bit more but there don't appear to be any sputter when first putting throttle on a bit now on take off and im unsure about the "boggin" as im not able to open the bike up in my street, you may very well be right it just seems though from what im reading all over the net it could be either or as im only getting part of the symptoms of either or and only on and of not all the time haha

Trial and error now probably. Buy some jets and take notes.

yeah that's about all ive got left to do, im going riding tomorrow for a rather big ride so i'll see how it goes this time after my slight air mixture change and maybe look into jets after this if its not 100%

The circuit that the carburetor is running on depends on throttle position not where the engine is in it's powerband or rpm.

0-1/8 throttle = pilot jet

1/8- 3/4 throttle = needle

3/4-WFO throttle = main jet

idle - 3/4 throttle the air screw has an effect

When you are tuning tune one circuit at a time.

Your air screw adjustment should fall between 1/2 and 1 1/2 turns, if not the pilot jet is incorrect

If you have to raise up the slide by screwing the idle screw way in your pilot is incorrect and you are basically bypassing the pilot circuit and trying to make it idle on the needle

There is overlap in the circuits so if one circuit is rich and the next one is lean you will get erratic transitions between circuits. marking your throttle grip with tape so that you know which circuit you are on is helpful.

Tun ONE circuit at a time and make only one change at a time or you will get lost in a hurry.

be patient and have fun tuning, you will learn a lot and understand what rich and lean feels like and sounds like, this will make you a better rider.

Nail in the head doug!

do you mean his post was painful like copping a 'nail in the head' or he is spot on as in 'hit the nail ON the head'?!

Either way I got to nail something

Ment on, predicted text has alot to answer for in my posts.

just reminded me of the big guy from happy Gilmore with the nail in his head. poor doug

I need to learn more about carbys so bad you lost me with half of this but I do understand some of it and im learning more, and ahh it bogs down sometimes not all the time so im not sure its jets anymore but possibly the air leak/reeds like said above but I do still plan on learning/trying to tune the carby just incase or incase I can at least make it run better so thanks for the very handy info its a good start

A slightly lean mixture can give an intermittent bog when under load. My bike would occasionally bog when snapping the throttle at low revs (to pull the front up at low speed). I found it was related to engine temperature. After riding hard there was no bog but after a couple of minutes of low speed /light load riding it would bog when trying to lift the front because it had cooled slightly. One step richer needle diameter and all was sweet.

Don't confuse the normal 2t crackle at light loads/ small throttle opening with being rich, this is normal. Because a 2t carb doesn't squirt fuel in when the throttle is snapped open it must have a slightly rich state of tune at light load or it'll bog when the throttle is snapped.
If it doesn't foul plugs and responds well at low speed I'd say it's ok at the 0 to 1/4 throttle range.

From your description I'd suggest trying the needle clip in a richer position and test ride it. You could also try a main jet one size richer too. Only try one at a time or you'll end up lost. Don't be afraid to try a richer setting, it won't hurt the engine, be careful going leaner though.