Yet another issue. Radiator pinhole (te510)

Discussion in 'Common Items on Husqvarnas: Tires/tubes/grips/etc' started by Mick, May 13, 2011.

  1. Mick Husqvarna
    AA Class

    After checking my valves and doing the air filter, I tightened a few hoses and did a general once over to make sure it wasn't leaking again. It was. After a run in the dirt, enough to heat it up and pressurize the system, I was reunited with the disappointing smell of glycol.

    let it cool, limped home, took the tank off, ran it from a remote fuel source and found a small pinhole squirting coolant from the center radiator to the top of the valve cover. Hole is very small, about the same sized stream as you would get from a small syringe.

    The way i see it I have a few options,
    1, Braze
    I'll call a few radiator shops in the morning and get a price on a repair (if a repair is possible) Not too sure if I'm a fan of this, as it seems to be a bit of a band-aid repair.

    2,
    Aftermarket radiator from local supplier.
    They have them in store, but $249, for one side. I was told by the parts guy that it's aftermarket, but not told a specific brand, potential to be a cheap and nasty.

    3,
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HUSQVARN...Accessories&hash=item4158de3baa#ht_1386wt_905

    Thoughts and opinions? I have force radiator guards which I will be refitting, I'm assuming that the aftermarket ebay rads copy the standard fitment, so they should fit my guards.
  2. Mick Husqvarna
    AA Class

    You wouldn't believe my luck. After typing in "te510 radiator for sale" into google, it bought up an ad on another forum posted three days ago parting out an 06 510. Went over, met the bloke and snagged both sides for $100. mounted up great, but needs the tabs for the lower shroud welded back on. For the time being the pinch bolts are clamped further down than they should be. I'm still waiting for my Y from Lu's and the silicon hoses, so in the mean time I've filled up with a generic coolant until I fit everything and use engine ice.
  3. BadMotoWeazal Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Alabama
    There is nothing wrong with a fix from the radiator shop, I've seen them do incredible things to radiators that are truely racked. It is much more that just a band-aid fix & will last forever. I'm glad you got a set for cheap & got it fixed....:cheers:
  4. glangston Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Gardnerville, NV and Mammoth Lakes, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2012 Husqvarna TE 310
    Other Motorcycles:
    2012 BETA 350 RS
    Mylers has a good/excellent rep. www.motorcycleradiators.com

    Have a backup set if you want but they will fix most radiators..quick turnaround too.

    ETA OOPs, see you are in Oz.
  5. Mick Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Thanks weazal and glang for your replies. Ran it today and it went great for a few hours, then started pissing coolant out of the clamps on the T piece. I have no idea why any company would use a product as goddamn awful as those stupid press fitted clamps. I've pressure tested the radiator caps (Have tried two) and both are working as they should. Good news is the new radiator is working a treat and has solved 80% of the issue.

    For the next few weeks I will be tearing it down and inspecting thoroughly, replacing anything that needs to be replaced. I'm going to start another thread specifically for this bike, so i can stop irritating you guys with a different thread every time I have an issue, Hopefully I can get enough knowledgeable folks input!
  6. glangston Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Gardnerville, NV and Mammoth Lakes, CA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2012 Husqvarna TE 310
    Other Motorcycles:
    2012 BETA 350 RS
    I think I heard George (Uptite Y's) say he sent out some stuff to a guy in Aust. so that may be your supplier. I rode around the neighborhood with him to pick up parts from his local craftsmen (levers and anodized parts) and some were ready as promised and others weren't.
  7. smoke229 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    IL
    Halls switched our bike from the stock 2010 rads after they got a pin hole to the 2011 rads and they seem to be much tougher, dont know if they are the same for the 4 strokes though...