TE/TC ZipTy Racing 4CS mod suspension A++++

Well my hater thread is now officially dead. A quick couple of thoughts on the 4CS. To be proper and scientific I should have re-sprung them first and rode them stock for a while. I rode the entire bike in out of the box condition at one of our local rides, its the hardest core trail we have and usually has a 1/3 drop out rate. I finished with no real drama on the bike with only 1hour previous break in ride on it.
Anyway we have been playing around with this thing for a few months of scientific testing and revalves, re springs, add oil remove oil. And I got worried and was getting tired of getting my ass kicked, plus Im no suspension tester pro by a long shot. But I do know when its good, Ive ridden top tier stuff. I crashed off a trials section and almost ruined myself do to the forks acting like crap. Something needed to be done drastic.----

Ty got this thing right, out of the gate. Its really really good. super smooth and just eats whoops. Most importantly it just goes up stuff like a goat with zero deflection off those HS comp hits (that was my biggest issue!!) I hit bottom 4x yesterday 2x hard in extreme cases, she may need only a couple clicks of comp or maybe a wee bit more oil , I will discuss that later (Im afraid to tighten up the comp because she eat sharp stuff so nicely now, so it may be a few cc of oil). Both top adjusters are now REB and added base valves are COMP at the fork bottoms, so they are sort of "deconfigured" I dont care how they are configured they just needed to work like they do now!! I was close to ebaying a set of older open chamber forks from an XC-W! That idea has been erased. good to go!! 100% good to go.

I weight 210 nekkid and have .48 spring up front and a 6.1 out back with 25mm of free sag (per Tys suggestion). We have a little bit of unscience here due to the fact that we did the forks, added a GPR, and added a GT216AA tire. For the sake of simplicity and for our slow average speeds I will remove the GPR, for tight stuff it gets a little tiring even at its lightest setting, plus mine may have a slightly bent control arm, it binds going left.

To do it all over I would first respring and ride the crap out of the bike break it in proper than make a decision.

Oh yea as for the rear- OEM stock with a heavy spring and corresponding clicks in to the reb to compensate. My HSCD is way out/open at 2.5 turns to eat rocks, my LSCD is --I dont remember off hand, note the rear is good as is.

Good news Rob. Ty knows his stuff!

Awesome! Glad Zip Ty got them sorted for you. Crashing sucks anytime but when a bike helps it seems to hurt even more. If you don't mind, how much would a Zip Ty set up like you have cost someone?

Which bike do you have? Vintage and model? Is it what is listed in your signature?

He has a 2014 TE300

2014 TE300 Husqvarna

I believe it is around $340 for the forks which includes valving, modification parts, springs and RFF. That's a really good deal.


http://www.ziptyracing.com/services/

ZipTy Racing

7247 Coyote Trail

Oak Hills, CA 92344

Attn: Service Department

Contact us: 760.244.7028

WOW that is a good deal. I already have the heavier springs in them. Question, I'm happy with the rear after the heavier spring so should I send it too or will the front mods work with a stock re-sprung rear?

The price varies depending what you need. Oil is 14.95 per fork and we use RFF which is way better than most. The mod parts are 79.99. Labor to go into them is 139.95. Like I told Robert, I would send all of the suspension to Ty, front and rear needs to be matched.

Wow that is a great price. I'm sure mine need a good going through since Iv'e thrashed em really hard this season. 60 hours and 1800 miles on the clock. I rode in some really muddy conditions as well but I did install neoprene seal savers when I first bought the bike so hopefully the seals aren't too toasted. The forks and shock are ready for some much needed love. I will be sending them in soon. Thanks ZipTy

Also, we service more than just Husky suspension. We provide factory race services for Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Beta, KTM, Husqvarna and even Harley Davidson which we make our own suspension for. Maybe even AJP, have to tear one down.

I'm gonna take your advice and respring the front to my weight as it suggests in the owners manual. My weight is 195 no gear, so I know that it needs to be done, being in the upper range. I'm getting my 57N/mm REAR spring tomorrow then look at what the front has in stock form.
After my mild first test ride in the woods yesterday, I find this bike absolutely perfect for my needs, I didn't push it because I didn't want to end up as a tree ornament before the holidays, but I feel this may become my main ride. It's real easy to whip around.

Re sprung for proper weight and the stock suspension is pretty good.

Has anyone made a definite determination of the differences in valving between the TE300, FE350 and FE501?

I have read numerous complaints about the forks on the 300 but zip on the 501? Wondering about the differences...

All of the 4CS forks have the issue.

Are you talking all year models also?

So if I look up in the parts manual the part numbers of the shims for the various forks (TE300, FE350, FE501) they will all match?

The issue isn't with the shims, the issue is the lack of adjust ability. If one whole fork controls your rebound and another controls your compression, then each fork has to work double for the other. But the 4cs engineers didn't think this through when their design. The models vary in spring adjustments and shimming to vary how they react from model to model, but they all carry the same design failure with adjustment.