• Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

0.008 - Am I doing this correctly?

H

Howard70

Husqvarna
A Class
Hey 610'ers:

Just got to the valve adjustment on my 2008 TE610 with 990 miles. I'm able to get the biggest Motion Pro feeler gage I've got in there - 0.008! Exhaust and intake. That's way out of specification, but the bike was running fine and not overly noisy.

Could I be measuring wrong? I've not done valve adjustment before (aside from the diesel engine on a sailboat we used to have, where it was easy to get the feeler gage lined up). Could I be forcing the larger gage in? None of the gages (0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006 and 0.008) slide in effortlessly. But once in they are all fairly easy to move around.

Here's a shot of the 0.008 gage exhaust (the 0.2 on the gage is mm).

picture.php


Thanks for any suggestions!

Howard Snell
 
Looks good to me and sounds about right for the first check... set them back to 0.002" and you should be good to go.
 
You need two feeler gauges. One for each side. Its the only way to get an accurate reading when you have two valves off of one cam.

.008 is way out. The valves wont dissipate heat to the valve seat, the elephant foot will get pounded, the bike wont make power, and it will sound horrible. :)

Buy a second feeler guage, then you will have an accurate measurement. Keep sliding guages until one wont fit, your clearance will be the previous feeler.
 
Hello Mike:

Thanks. I thought something wasn't right. I'll try two gages as you suggest.

The bike definitely wasn't running poorly, nor making a lot of clatter.

I'm glad I got your feedback before putting her back together. It isn't simple to get to these valves....

When I removed the tank the "quick disconnects" disconnected fine, but they sure didn't slow the flow of fuel! Do those things ever work?

At least I'll know to drain the tank first next time. I've seen the a couple of other disconnects recommended and I'll eventually try those.

Howard
 
Stroker Ace;17005 said:
Looks good to me and sounds about right for the first check... set them back to 0.002" and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

Hello Stoker:

Thanks for your prompt reply. I'l try the two feeler gage technique mentioned by Mike. That way I'll have the bases covered! Either way I'll get back to .002 before closing everything up.

Howard
 
Howard70;17022 said:
When I removed the tank the "quick disconnects" disconnected fine, but they sure didn't slow the flow of fuel! Do those things ever work?
Click to expand...

1) close the petcocks.
2) remove the 'cross over' fuel line.
3) plug one end of that fuel line with a phillips screw driver, bolt, vise grips, whatever.
4) use the other end of that fuel line to plug the white 'quick disconnect'
line before it leaks fuel all over the garage!
5) no need to drain the tank

I learned this from Uptite!
 
Mike Kay;17075 said:
3) plug one end of that fuel line with a phillips screw driver, bolt, vise grips, whatever.
Click to expand...

I discovered that golf tees work extremely well for plugging fuel lines. I needed to do that on a 1980s KLR I had.


I know people from all over the world read this forum and terminology changes because of that. Here is a random golf link, they can usually be found free at a golf course:
http://www.golfteesetc.com/stgote.html
 
I like the golf tee's too.... The good part about draining the tank is that it doesn't weigh anything so it's easy to deal with.... have fun......
 
Done - Thanks!

Hello Stoker, Mike & Coffee:

Thanks for all of the suggestions - I used Mike's dual gage technique and that seemed to help a lot. I think that someone with a fine touch might be able to feel the resistance OK with one gage, but if you're not certain (as I'm not) then the two gages really take the variation out of the picture. I'm assuming that what happens with a single gage is if you try hard enough you can "force" a larger gage in because the other rocker pivots down a bit and thus leaves more room for the gage. With two gages there isn't a space at the other rocker so the one being measured doen't move? I'm guessing here, but I think I remember my Dad explaining something similar when I was working with him many, many years ago and he'd get a different measurement than I did.

I may try the golf tees for plugging the fuel hose, or I might just take a long ride the day before the next valve adjustment and thus have a nearly empty tank! Sounds like a good excuse for a ride.

Howard
 
On the fuel disconnects: The Black one(s) shut off when disconnected, the white ones have no shut off. IIRC
 
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