• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

08 TC450 forks

rawperformance

rawperformance

Husqvarna
A Class
Has any one changed the oil in their forks yet? It is mid season and I am ready to do mine. Problem is I have not ever cracked open a Zok's fork and am wondering if there is a how to posted out there. Looking for special tools and tricks to not ruin my forks.

Thanks
Alex
 
Thanks guys I do have the pdf manual. Any Tech tips for the "Do it to yourselfer"? It's always better to have heard from someone with experience.
 
Work them like the newer twin chamber style forks from SHOWA or KYB. They are basically the same thing and there's a lot more info on the other two than the Zooks. But, if you have the manual you should have everything you need.
 
Take extra time to bleed out the internal sealed chamber. It's best to completely drain the old fluid out of the int chamber by stroking the insert while upsidedown. At that point when you go to re-fill it's going to take alot of stroking to bleed out the air and if the original stuff comes out real dirty it's best to flush the int chamber at least once(flush by filling up and stroke just like you're bleeding the valving circuits and then completely drain by again stroking upsidedown). In addition you'll want to get a fat hose clamp and completely squeeze the bladder dry if you can, then seal the upper orifice holes by securing a hose clamp around it, this will allow you to better bleed the valving circuits. This may make no sense, but it's a quick attempt. Make sure you eliminate all and any possible air bubbles out of the internal chamber. If you're wanting to change oil weight, the internal chamber will have the most effect as the main chamber only prevents bottoming and lubes the sliders. These forks are not as sensitive to valving by oild quantity, but it is a bandaid if the forks are over or under sprung.

Also inspect very closely the amount of pre-load on your springs upon first dissassembly, you may notice you have negative preload and slop in the springs at full droop, not ideal. May have to add 5-10 mm of pre-load to correct.
 
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