• 4 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
     TE = 4st Enduro & TC = 4st Cross

  • Hi everyone,

    As you all know, Coffee (Dean) passed away a couple of years ago. I am Dean's ex-wife's husband and happen to have spent my career in tech. Over the years, I occasionally helped Dean with various tech issues.

    When he passed, I worked with his kids to gather the necessary credentials to keep this site running. Since then (and for however long they worked with Coffee), Woodschick and Dirtdame have been maintaining the site and covering the costs. Without their hard work and financial support, CafeHusky would have been lost.

    Over the past couple of weeks, I’ve been working to migrate the site to a free cloud compute instance so that Woodschick and Dirtdame no longer have to fund it. At the same time, I’ve updated the site to a current version of XenForo (the discussion software it runs on). The previous version was outdated and no longer supported.

    Unfortunately, the new software version doesn’t support importing the old site’s styles, so for now, you’ll see the XenForo default style. This may change over time.

    Coffee didn’t document the work he did on the site, so I’ve been digging through the old setup to understand how everything was running. There may still be things I’ve missed. One known issue is that email functionality is not yet working on the new site, but I hope to resolve this over time.

    Thanks for your patience and support!

09 310 Zoke shivers...

Trailridernut

Trailridernut

Husqvarna
A Class
I purchased this bike about 3 months ago with only 101km(67 miles?) and have adjusted this suspension to the point of getting peaved at the fact Husky and GasGas(starting in '05) use the Zoke Shivers! I have always shimmed/valved(in the early '00's)/sprung(on occasion) a suspension and generally $300~ and I'm fine, but starting in '07(GasGas) changed the valving to the point it feels like it has NO midvalve... the Husky has the same suspension... VERY frustrating when you need to spend $800~ just to make this thing ridable at race pace!:mad:

Going back to Zokes in '05/'06... fantastic suspension after spending $150! Best suspension I've had in 40 years! What did they do??!

OK... rant off!

Any lower cost suspension out there? It's hard to swallow $800~(with shipping) for a bike that should be better but is a pain in the arse!
 
$800 for a full suspension setup doesnt sound too far out of normal. LTR gave me an estimate below that for both ends of my WR300 with the springs that I will probably need since my poundage is above average.
 
I have the dual chamber 50MMs on my 08 TXC250 ... I'm ~sure that my setup will not for you (slow race pace) but after playing with them some, no deflecting, not too harsh, and only bottom on MX tracks, and $0 except for my time, some fork oil, and listening and reading from others .... My springs apparently were for my weight as I'm still using them so I lucked out there...

From all the reading here on these forks, PROs seem to like them but out of the box on these bikes, they are usually reported to be too harsh so most like the japan kyb models out of the box...

Never played with the rear other than the clickers ... seems ok but I'm sure it could be better ...

Not sure about that cost but we all gotta eat .... There is not alot in forks really ... maybe the valves are being replaced? Can't see how those shims cost much..

Good luck with UR tuning ... What racing are you doing?
 
oregonsage said:
$800 for a full suspension setup doesnt sound too far out of normal. LTR gave me an estimate below that for both ends of my WR300 with the springs that I will probably need since my poundage is above average.
Click to expand...

$800 is probably fair(actually $700 plus $100 shipping), it just pisses me off it actually takes that much money to fix a suspension that should have been made better from day 1. In the last 10 years typically shimming and possible a spring(s) and I'm good to go, again, all for about $150-$300... huge price difference. Don't get me wrong, I do a suspension almost sooner than bark busters... it's VERY important after riding a GREAT suspension you will never settle for less. In a sense, good suspension tuners will make you very spoiled(LOL!)!

RayRay... wish I could try the twin chambers! I might have to find a pair. I'm an offroader/enduro rider.
 
After getting LTR to do the suspension on my GASGAS I'm spoiled. It cost about $600 and I can say that it is money far better spent than a head mod or pipe or silencer. As soon as I put enough break in hours on my Husky the forks and shock are going to LTR. If you need different springs you can save a little by buying the recommended springs used and send them with your suspension to avoid new prices. That should save about $100. After you get your old springs back you can sell them and get a little more back. I don't expect anything on a bike to come set up to suit me (a 6'6" 205lb slow 47year old that likes tough single track) if it did 99% of the buyers would complain even more.
smile.gif
 
IMO, it seem the forks allow a bike to carry speed or on ST, to maintain a good forward push with UR bike ... The rear in these cases will follow in most cases ... So a good suspension is safer and almost essential for carrying any speed safely unless U just wanna pin-it and hang on ...

The rear end allows heavy acceleration to happen in most all cases it seems... without the rear dialed in to some degree, I cannot ever consider pinning the throttle in most cases from lower speeds 'starting' because of too much pounding from the rear wheel up to my backbone or side to side spinning forcing me to let off ...

To date, I'm satisfied with my Huskies suspension performance after my changes ...
 
My TXC forks were very bad when I got it ... The inner chambers had to be bleed and adjusting the oil volume made the bike ridable on the trails with out deflection and no big bangs back up through the bars .... Some guy out here gave me a MID valve change and a few CMP stack changes and the feel got alot better ... The bike feels OK on the trails and ~fast backroads I ride now but I'm sure the tuner guys can make it feel better ...

How does the engine on the 310 feel?
 
Bit late into the thread.. te 310 2010 single chamber 50mm zokes.
my te 310 forks were harsh in mid stroke from new.. they do get way better with time....
Ive looked into my notes my best settings pre revalve
worth trying as cost you nothing.. these were my best settings and worked well for me...

Standard springs front & back
5w oil (standard i think!)
fork Rebound clickers 6 out
fork comp clickers 20 out
shock clickers comp 14 out
shock clickers comp high 15 low 15
standard air gap..

static sag 25mm
rider sag 100mm

For trail riding only
fork comp clickers fully out (24) (softer)
for woods enduro whooped straights 20 out (as above setting) (in the middle)
for MX trax
fork comp clickers 18 out (little stiffer)

bleed forks as much as possible makes a big difference... as does getting your rider sag to 100mm higher than 100mm made the front feel noticeable harsher on the front end..
Front handle bars with spacer under bars not clamp.. im 6ft and 85kg with out gear..
 
ray_ray said:
How does the engine on the 310 feel?
Click to expand...

It seems ok... keep in mind I rode a GasGas 300 for 7~ years(great bike!)... it's somewhat difficult to know what to really expect out of a 310 4 stroke motor. I owned a te250 in '04, I liked it but it had been ridden hard and put up wet to many times so I sold it. So far the smog is gone and it has a JD jetting module for the fi. It runs very strong mid to top, I just need to adjust the bottom end power and it should be on target... probably drop one tooth on the counter.

Andy J... I run the clickers all the way in(out is softer) on the forks(minus one) on compression and all the way out on rebound. The shock is all the way in(minus 1 or 2) on compression... vastly better! I need to reset sag as it is pushing in corners @ 100mm... I will bump it up to 107-110mm with slightly heavier(7wt) oil. I only ride trails and weigh 185lbs with gear. Hopefully that will work or I will send it to Drew @ WER for a rework!
 
Wow! your running your compression virtually closed... i am led to believe this just about shuts of the bleed valves... my suspension chap said to never go less than four clicks from fully closed.. due to restricting the oil flow too much..
You have the slowest compression & the fastest rebound speed... on my bike that would be hard when i hit a bump and the forks compressed and then it would spring back real fast and give me more grief in arm pump...
My settings are virtually the opposite of yours.... funny how yours is better this way... maybe they have no oil in them or something is broke.. i know no other that maxes out the compression clickers...
ecu settings were set to co1 118 co2 110 co3 106 at last service.. bike is brill at low RPM third gear to walking pace and picks up pulls real strong and never stalls... standard gearing too. on enduros on spend most of the time in third gear im a lazy rider, and is so easy to ride it like this..
oh and i run the standard db killer in the back too..
Just looked at your mileage... you need at least 400-500 on that engine & forks.. night and day difference on the power and low rev lugging once you get to 500miles.... my bike stalled at low rpm until it got run it!... the power now is lovely..

hope this helps ya..

Andy
 
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