millenium7
Husqvarna
AA Class
This is my old thread http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/09-te510-running-like-crap-valve-and-other-qs.80469/
But i've made a discovery, and to save reading here are the key points
- Bike ran like utter crap. Bike would struggle to crank over with the starter and took a fair while to start, would idle ok but did not like throttle and ran extremely poor under load
- Feeler gauges wouldn't go in at all at TDC
The latest:
So while waiting on my OBD2 cable to check sensors, I thought i'd have a look at that again. I counted the number of teeth between the cam gear and the mark on each camshaft and found that the intake side was 1 tooth further away than the exhaust. This explains why I couldn't get my feeler gauge in. So I took out the cam journals and rotated the intake side clockwise (as looking at it from the right side of the bike) by 1 tooth. Reinstalled everything, spun motor over a few times to make sure there weren't any interference issues. That seemed fine* (however, see note below)
Intake valves are now on the tight side, with one of them being 0.08mm. I figured thats close enough just to run the engine for now, so I reinstalled everything and then went to crank the bike.
First thing I noticed is how much easier the engine spins over now, no more locking at TDC. It just cranks over as it should. However the engine coughed once or twice and that was it. I pulled the plug and it was dripping wet, so I held the throttle wide open and kicked it over a couple dozen times. Tried starting, again a couple coughs and that was it. Repeated again and this time held the throttle open slightly, fired about a dozen times every second revolution or so - as if it was very, very rich or flooded - and that was it.
Note: Just after reinstalling the cam journals, I spun the motor over a few times and noticed a 'click' sound on every revolution that I can't remember hearing before. Is this normal? Maybe the auto de-comp? However once I put the head cover back on and kicked and cranked it over (without fuel pump connected so it wouldn't start) I couldn't say that it sounded any different to before
So my questions are...
- Is it possible the ECU has adapted to the intake cam being 1 tooth out, and now it's so screwed up it won't run?
- Can I reset the ECU? (I currently have battery disconnected)
- Is there likely to be damage from the intake cam being off?
- How super critical is the torque on the cam journals? I set them back approx how tight they were by hand (noting where the allen key was pointing prior)
- Could the ignition timing be screwed up as well? (How do I check/set it)
- Both cams are supposed to be equally far apart when at TDC correct?
But i've made a discovery, and to save reading here are the key points
- Bike ran like utter crap. Bike would struggle to crank over with the starter and took a fair while to start, would idle ok but did not like throttle and ran extremely poor under load
- Feeler gauges wouldn't go in at all at TDC
The latest:
So while waiting on my OBD2 cable to check sensors, I thought i'd have a look at that again. I counted the number of teeth between the cam gear and the mark on each camshaft and found that the intake side was 1 tooth further away than the exhaust. This explains why I couldn't get my feeler gauge in. So I took out the cam journals and rotated the intake side clockwise (as looking at it from the right side of the bike) by 1 tooth. Reinstalled everything, spun motor over a few times to make sure there weren't any interference issues. That seemed fine* (however, see note below)
Intake valves are now on the tight side, with one of them being 0.08mm. I figured thats close enough just to run the engine for now, so I reinstalled everything and then went to crank the bike.
First thing I noticed is how much easier the engine spins over now, no more locking at TDC. It just cranks over as it should. However the engine coughed once or twice and that was it. I pulled the plug and it was dripping wet, so I held the throttle wide open and kicked it over a couple dozen times. Tried starting, again a couple coughs and that was it. Repeated again and this time held the throttle open slightly, fired about a dozen times every second revolution or so - as if it was very, very rich or flooded - and that was it.
Note: Just after reinstalling the cam journals, I spun the motor over a few times and noticed a 'click' sound on every revolution that I can't remember hearing before. Is this normal? Maybe the auto de-comp? However once I put the head cover back on and kicked and cranked it over (without fuel pump connected so it wouldn't start) I couldn't say that it sounded any different to before
So my questions are...
- Is it possible the ECU has adapted to the intake cam being 1 tooth out, and now it's so screwed up it won't run?
- Can I reset the ECU? (I currently have battery disconnected)
- Is there likely to be damage from the intake cam being off?
- How super critical is the torque on the cam journals? I set them back approx how tight they were by hand (noting where the allen key was pointing prior)
- Could the ignition timing be screwed up as well? (How do I check/set it)
- Both cams are supposed to be equally far apart when at TDC correct?